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I am not aware of a Stainless Steel coil from Horizontech that is made for the Falcon tank. Freemax has several different mesh coils, the Mesh Pro and Fireluke Mesh, both can be acquired in SS but to my knowledge neither will fit the Falcon tank.
Um.... this may sound like a really dumb question but if you like the vape the way it is.... And you've tried the other coils (maybe) why not just leave it in your (ineffective) probably temp mode I mean the only bad thing that might happen (unless you are truly wanting to be 100% sure you aren't exceeding the recommended temp, which well you may or may not be IDK) is you'd use up a bit more battery than not ineffectively monitoring your coil temp.
IDK, maybe a bit too far in the "if it ain't broke" camp for some. I imagine someone will be along to point out why this may be a bad idea which is fine by me I am no TC expert that is for sure.
Anna
IDK, maybe a bit too far in the "if it ain't broke" camp for some. I imagine someone will be along to point out why this may be a bad idea which is fine by me I am no TC expert that is for sure.
Anna
Okay so this is another point I was wondering about, is how do I know what wattage I actually need for a coil, whether used in TC or not? Cause it seems like when I run the coil at the suggested rated, I get quick burnouts even though I am not getting dry hits and I don't over puff it. But if I start lowering it outside that range is when I really notice a performance drop off: as in, less flavor, and less vapor production. Which is why I was thinking that perhaps TC mode would be better for both coil longevity and performance- but of course that depends on other factors as you all have sufficiently explained.
Well.... yes, technically I do get better performance from the N1 Uforce coils it came with. The problem is that the uforce coils are horribly inconsistent. I got two boxes of them new after the original burnt out... 3/10 were bad from the boxes, another 2 had noticable performance issues, and the other 5 did well. So basically, 2 boxes of 5 to get 5 good coils. Hence why I started trying other coils to see if that's the norm or not. So while I go technically get better performance from then (when they work), its the lack of consistency that made me look elsewhere. When they work well, they make nice clouds and have decent flavor. But overall, these m-duals have a better flavor production and nearly the same cloud production (less important to me but it is fun to do).
Also.... I was experimenting for the sake of learning!
@Vape1048, found Watt Calculator on Play Store for Android to be useful.
And when using watt mode. Do you have it set on Soft, Normal or Hard? They're preheat options, so Soft applies the least amount of power and Hard the most.
And also various mods out there in the wild do apply power in some unusual ways. It's why the high end devices sell as they are more accurate, but unfortunately more expensive.
And when using watt mode. Do you have it set on Soft, Normal or Hard? They're preheat options, so Soft applies the least amount of power and Hard the most.
And also various mods out there in the wild do apply power in some unusual ways. It's why the high end devices sell as they are more accurate, but unfortunately more expensive.
I noticed you mentioned this in another thread so gave it a shot to see if any of my coils and preferences come close to what it suggests. From what I am able to guess, this calculator is suggesting wattage based on coil resistance and 3.2 to 4.2 volts – which is the voltage range of a single cell mechanical device.
@Vape1048 – there is no hard rule nor quick guide in determining your wattage. Wattage is based on your preference and the mass of the coil, not it's resistance. Higher mass = more needed power to heat a coil to your preferred temperature within a timely manner. You could have a low mass 0.5 ohm coil that only requires 15 watts, or you can have a high mass 0.5 ohm coil that may require 80 watts. When using drop in coils we can follow the suggested wattage that is printed on the coil – but we are not required to use the coil within that suggestion. Just keep in mind the higher the power setting, the more likely your coils lifespan will be reduced. I would suggest starting below or at the lowest recommendation for said coil and work you way up until you find a sweet spot, should that be needed.
I would also familiarize yourself with your Drag 2 – perhaps a tweak to the settings could help with coil longevity. Don’t own a Drag 2 so I can’t help but did find this excellent review from a user on Reddit. He goes into detail on the different FIT settings.
Average Vaper [Review] - VooPoo Drag 2 Kit : electronic_cigarette
Mine doesn't have those options, it only has options to switch between coil materials. Mine is set to SS since I only have SS coils.
@Punk In Drublic Gotcha. Starting from low to high is what I've been doing. And actually, when I start using a new coil, after letting it saturate and verifying that it is, I will start it off quite a bit below minimum and work up to the minimum after letting sit and priming a few times between drags, just to make sure it is completely saturated. The fit modes do a pretty good job on some coils, but sometimes is a bit off on others. It's always worth a shot to see how it does on new coils.
Just looked through the manual for the Drag 2, and it seems that you need to connect it to a computer to manually adjust TCR.
Also found this for you @Vape1048, a TCR list for the Drag 2.
https://i.imgur.com/Mvjk7N7_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium
Also found this for you @Vape1048, a TCR list for the Drag 2.
https://i.imgur.com/Mvjk7N7_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium
I have the Drag 2 and fit the fit mode just frustrating. It's intuitive settings don't even come close to my preferences. I keep it in power mode and it works well.
I have quite a number of different devices, and I noted the majority of the most common mods, those priced around $50, cannot deliver a satisfying temperature controlled vape.
Without going technical, as others have already provided plenty of explanation, I want to say that I do often vape in TC, by using exclusively DNA and Dicodes mod.
If you wish a frustration-free TC experience, I would suggest a DNA 250C mod, choosing a tank based on the availability of SS coils, or a good RTA on which you would build your own SS coil and wick.
Without going technical, as others have already provided plenty of explanation, I want to say that I do often vape in TC, by using exclusively DNA and Dicodes mod.
If you wish a frustration-free TC experience, I would suggest a DNA 250C mod, choosing a tank based on the availability of SS coils, or a good RTA on which you would build your own SS coil and wick.
The short answer is that your wattage in temp control mode has to present a varying wire resistance to the TC logic that allows TC to maintain temperature within a close range. If you set temp to 420F and the wattage to 200W you'll get a huge power up followed by a shutdown because the high wattage sends the temp off the scale in a second or two.
If you wattage is too low, then your coil will never reach the temp you set in TC mode and you may not even get vapor or even a sizzle. I set TC to the same wattage that works in wattage mode. If it needs a boost or cut in wattage, I vary wattage to hit the sweet spot.
TC mode needs to see resistance vary within a range to be able to control the heat. Only Stainless, Nickel, and Titanium have the properties to present a changing resistance to the TC mode logic.
So, a good starting point with a given atomizer is to set the wattage in TC mode to the same value that you would use in wattage mode (for a given coil). If you vape at 60 watts in power mode, then start there in TC mode and tweak as needed.
As others have said, Kanthal doesn't work in TC mode because it maintains resistance in a narrow window and TC mode can't use it to determine when the coil temp rises and falls. I've tried all the TC wires and found SS316L to be just right for me. Your experience will tell you when you've settled on the right TC mode wire.
Good article on how to use TC mode.
Temperature Control mode: How to use it? | Vaping Post
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@RayofLight62, I've heard reasonable things about Asmodus mods. As some of their mods can do TFR (Temperature Factor of Resistance) which uses a 5 point temperature curve, as well as TCR (Temperature Coefficient of Resistance) which only uses one value.
YiHi are really good chipsets for TC vaping as well and TCR can be altered on the mod, also efficiency is supposedly even higher than Evolv DNA. You've got the Vsticking VK530 as a cheap entry level option to the SX Mini range of mods, which aren't cheap at all (and some of the latest designs are interesting to say at least). But some of the SX Mini mods have Bluetooth, which sounds like a gimmick at first. This is used for configuring the mod on the fly though.
Whereas with Evolv DNA chipset mods you need to connect them to a computer to configure the TFR on them, which is a bit of a downside. But nonetheless they're good chipsets.
YiHi are really good chipsets for TC vaping as well and TCR can be altered on the mod, also efficiency is supposedly even higher than Evolv DNA. You've got the Vsticking VK530 as a cheap entry level option to the SX Mini range of mods, which aren't cheap at all (and some of the latest designs are interesting to say at least). But some of the SX Mini mods have Bluetooth, which sounds like a gimmick at first. This is used for configuring the mod on the fly though.
Whereas with Evolv DNA chipset mods you need to connect them to a computer to configure the TFR on them, which is a bit of a downside. But nonetheless they're good chipsets.
I have several AsMODus mods and use them in TCR with very good results. Haven’t tried TFR yet. They’re - in my opinion- every bit as good as my Paranormals, but without that annoying sleep function and constantly asking if this is a new coil, and the Colossal is a single battery, smaller for when I don’t need a double.
People seem to love them or hate them, but they can be had fairly inexpensively and are worth trying.
Interesting. I’ve never heard of this nor experienced it with any of my DNA’s. I do turn the “Automatically lock when Idle” function off upon first connecting to Escribe – not sure if there is any relation there.
None of my DNA’s ever auto shut down out of the box. Didn't even know the function was available honestly. I just ever adjusted the screen timeout.
@DeloresRose – when was the last time you connected to Escribe? The lock function can be turned off under the Safety tab. But the constantly asking for new coil sounds like a bug to me. Perhaps a update is due.
My steamtuner 75 DNA mod auto shuts down out of the box. It's useful and extends battery life a fair bit.
Anna
Anna
It does go into a sleep mode when not used for a good period of time. The default is 5 clicks to get out of the lock screen. That can be adjusted in eScribe. It's not really off, just taking a nap.
Love mid afternoon naps!
The Sleep function is a personal preference, but the device should not keep asking if a new coil was installed after coming out of a snooze – unless of course a new coil was installed!!
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