Can't get SS TC to work

[SheepdogSam]

Hey guys, I'm Sam, and I'm a vaper

Everyone in my head: "Hi Sam"

Anyway, been vaping since spinner batteries were the new hotness. Never had much trouble figuring things out, but now I'm completely stumped, and it's making me angry.

Rig #1: Evic Vtwo with Cubis pro
Rig #2: Evic Vtwo with Crown 2
Rig #3: Fuchai 213 w/ Cubist pro
Rig #4: Fuchai 213 w/ Crown 2

Wanted to run SS temp control since I never liked Nickel or Titanium. Bought an Evic Vtwo after my evic VT left me completely satisfied for almost a year. Get everything, it works good, I'm happy. After a few months I started getting lots of dry/burnt hits, only the notch coils provide reliable vaping. A couple more months, and SS TC is cutting out after a split second, and power mode is burning up coils in two days. No amount of tinkering or fiddling works. My buddy who's a noob vaper, and just kind of does what seems good shows me he's been firing his tank (same rig), and locking the resistance above cold to get reliable performance. I tried it for a bit, but it just keep burning up at random, which I would call predictable with that little trick.

Never had trouble with the cubis not wicking for several months, and trying thinner juice didn't help my problems at all.

I chain vape so I keep my temp/watts down to allow sustained vaping.

Bad tank? maybe. Buy a crown 2 and some SS coils. Mod kicks the crown 2 out of TC after a few hours, and won't go back for more than an hour, if it goes back at all.

Well The mod is probably damaged from drops or something. Ordered a Fuchai 213, and it showed up today. Set to TC SS316 Slap on the cubis pro with a fresh coil since I really liked it at first. Temp control kicks in after a split second then absolutely no vapor. Watts drop to the low single digits, and stay there. Put on the crown 2, exact same story, even with the temp maxed.

Don't want to run the crown 2 in power mode, because if it runs low on juice it burns immediately and beyond recovery. I spend a decent amount of time working in dark environments, and outside at night, so this is a pretty standard concern for me, and coils make it about a week before I accidentally smoke myself because I can't see my tank well.

Trying to provide as much info as possible.

On the Fuchai 213 Cubis coils are .5 SS316 clearly marked on package and actual coil. Cubis resistance reading .489 and jumps to .58 then drops back to .56 and stays +/- .01
On the Fuchai 213 Crown 2 coils are .25 SUS316 clearly marked on package and coil. Crown 2 reistance reading goes from .261 to .32-.34 on firing and stays there.

Bought from reliable dealers, and the codes check out.

What the actual hell could be happening? I've never been so confused.

 

[Cheallaigh]

I could definitely be wrong, but I thought TC with SS was more of an option... maybe not with your brand of coil.

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

I've had the same issues with all my mods, with both TI and SS, with many stating how much better it was. After doing TC with NI for over a year without any trouble, I wanted to try something different to see how "better" it supposedly was.

Results: I've yet to get a single SS build to do TC correctly, so I started reading up about it.

Turned out that a LOT of people have trouble getting SS316L (what I have) to do TC correctly...

So I plan to use my SS in regular Watt mode in my drippers, and stick to NI (which does TC perfectly) for my rebuilds for my tanks.

So it's not just you...

 

[Hitmetwice]

Sorta the same SS story here too. I thought it was the UD SS I was using on my Avocado because when using SS in the Crown tank it worked fine...for a while....until it started kicking into power mode too.

I fiddled with it a lot to no avail. Sometimes TC would stick for a day or 2, sometimes not at all. Just gave up on TC SS and use it in power mode. Like Imfallen_Angle the ni200 never kicks out of TC thank goodness too 'cause that's just Naaasty.

The SS Notch kicks out too for me. Maybe a TCR adjustment would help? Don't know. They work good for me in power mode so I just moved past it. Cheers.

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

Sorta the same SS story here too. I thought it was the UD SS I was using on my Avocado because when using SS in the Crown tank it worked fine...for a while....until it started kicking into power mode too.

I fiddled with it a lot to no avail. Sometimes TC would stick for a day or 2, sometimes not at all. Just gave up on TC SS and use it in power mode. Like Imfallen_Angle the ni200 never kicks out of TC thank goodness too 'cause that's just Naaasty.

The SS Notch kicks out too for me. Maybe a TCR adjustment would help? Don't know. They work good for me in power mode so I just moved past it. Cheers.

I tried all the manual TCR recommended settings on my mods... still no changes.

Some people report having a lot better luck with SS 430, but somehow 316L is the most popular one (most available to buy in stores), and one person telling me that it (316L) works fine for them on their DNA mod, but from what I've seen, the DNA chips can be hit and miss.

 

[daviedog]

While using Escribe to set up a DNA75, i looked at the gamma gradients of supported wires in TC, obvious why nickel would work so well, just don't like it.
AB'ing SS in TC or power? POWER..

 

[Bunnykiller]

just maybe... ( its a theory) that the SS is changing its chemical composition after its been heated to a certian point and messes with the "sensors/settings" of the mod and thus giving it false readings... and the mod compensates with the wrong output...

as I said... its just a thought...

 

[Cheallaigh]

I think it's aliens!

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

just maybe... ( its a theory) that the SS is changing its chemical composition after its been heated to a certian point and messes with the "sensors/settings" of the mod and thus giving it false readings... and the mod compensates with the wrong output...

as I said... its just a thought...

The trouble with TI and SS is that the TCR values are very small, so any gunk build-up, even saturation of the wick can cause some issues.

Trouble is, you can have a SS coil that doesn't work in TC, take the tank off, reset your mod, replace the tank and it'll be working again with the same resistance reading, but only for a while or so..

But second trouble is, I can do coils that will stay in SS mode no problem, BUT still doesn't behave correctly, it gets hot too fast, and gives a very metallic taste to the vape, this confirmed by my wife. Problem is if I set my wattage low to prevent this, it's too low and doesn't vape... just a tap more wattage, and I'm back to the overheat. It just isn't stable enough to balance with a decent ramp up then pulsing that TC does, it's just very hard to "fine tune" it, and I've yet to get it to work right for me.

In watt mode, it's fairly fine though, it just behaves weirdly in TC mode.

So, yeah, it's possible that heating it will charge it's molecular composition, part of why I try to not dry heat my coils as much as possible, but at the TC range with the max of 600F, that's far from the temperature needed to cause the metal to breakdown in any way.

 

[BrotherBob]

What the actual hell could be happening? I've never been so confused.

Welcome and glad you joined.
Best advice I can give is start simple and try to learn every basic part of vaping, then step up to advance ways of vape.

 

[Heatingman]

Sigeli mods suck at TC. They only actually work in power mode.
Try a Pioneer IPV400 or 6x - I have no problems with Titanium, stainless, or nickel.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Completely Average]

The real problem here is you need an excellent mod to do 316L SS TC correctly. This means if you're using a $40-$50 mod you can pretty much forget it. If the chips are not absolutely accurate in measuring resistance and resistance changes they're not going to work well with 316L.

So that leaves you with two choices.

Either buy a much better mod (DNA or higher end Yihi chipped mod) or switch to 430 SS which has a much more forgiving TCR curve.