Caution when using a rebuildable clearomizer on a Vamo

[klondikes]

I had an accident with my Vamo last night using a Vision rebuildable clearomizer. The Vision clearomizer fits the Vamo just fine and works great. But, when I unscrewed it to remove it from the Vamo, instead of unscrewing from the Vamo the clearomizer unscrewed at the diassemble point. The clearomizer tube came off and my e-liquid spilled out. The base of the clearomizer remained on the 510 connection. It did not hurt the Vamo but I had to use pliers on the clearomizer center post to unscrew the base of the clearomizer from the Vamo.

When the clearomizer is on the Vamo, the threads where the clearomizer comes apart are down inside the end of the Vamo. It is hard to tell when removing the clearomizer if it is unscrewing at the 510 threads or if the tube portion of the clearomizer is unscrewing from the base of the clearomizer.

Since the accident I have been careful to screw the clearomizer together firmly and to not screw the 510 thread too tight. By doing this I hope that the clearomizer will stay together when removing it from my Vamo. See picture below.

klondikes

 

[garyd]

"Since the accident I have been careful to screw the clearomizer together firmly and to not screw the 510 thread too tight. By doing this I hope that the clearomizer will stay together when removing it from my Vamo"

You are correct sir!

 

[lagittaja]

That's why you torque tighten the clearo base to the tube and don't torque down the clearo to the Vamo
I wouldn't torque tighten anything on the vamo, it's threads aren't so good.

 

[Faylool]

Thank you. It can happen that way with the glass tank/cartos too. made a couple messes myself!

 

[Jigsaw]

I had the same thing happen to me, but thankfully there wasn't much e-juice remaining in the tank. It's a good thing that you're getting the word out, maybe it will help others to avoid this problem.

 

[Mitey F]

I figured this was kinda common sense...

 

[klondikes]

Well, sure it is kinda common sense if you think about it. But if you're not thinking about it, it can happen.

 

[UncleChuck]

That's why you torque tighten the clearo base to the tube and don't torque down the clearo to the Vamo
I wouldn't torque tighten anything on the vamo, it's threads aren't so good.

When the clearo is screwed down all the way, you cannot access the base of the clearo, as it's hidden inside the top "ring" of the Vamo.

I had this same thing happen to me, but it was on my Zmax, not my Vamo. But same cause and same issue, the base is not accessible when the clearo is screwed down, you have no choice but to grip it by the clearo's body.

 

[Kemosabe]

ever since my KR8 days i have learned to never over-tighten your juice delivery topper. not only does it cause problems like in the OP, but whenever you overtighten your topper you run the risk of damaging your PVs center pin. if that center pin gets depressed far enough, you can ruin the entire PV, causing it not to fire.

 

[klondikes]

ever since my KR8 days i have learned to never over-tighten your juice delivery topper. not only does it cause problems like in the OP, but whenever you overtighten your topper you run the risk of damaging your PVs center pin. if that center pin gets depressed far enough, you can ruin the entire PV, causing it not to fire.

I didn't have the clearomizer that tight on the APV. I just didn't have the clearomizer base tight enough to the tube.

But you do make a good point.

klondikes

 

[Wynterbourne]

I had this happen to me with a Vivi Nova. I torqued it down just a touch too tight, and when I went to switch to a different juice I managed to unscrew the tank from the base. Dumped a good 2.5 ml of juice in the middle of a restaurant.

 

[Izan]

ever since my KR8 days i have learned to never over-tighten your juice delivery topper. not only does it cause problems like in the OP, but whenever you overtighten your topper you run the risk of damaging your PVs center pin. if that center pin gets depressed far enough, you can ruin the entire PV, causing it not to fire.

Exactly Kemo,
The key term for screwing battery and device together...

SNUG

Not tight, not loose, not torqued.

just SNUG.

I

 

[lagittaja]

Indeed.
I only screw my atties/carts/whatever so that it makes contact and it doesn't wobble on the connector. Like Izan said, just snug.

 

[NeilSwift]

I was messing with my new Nova Tank before I juiced it up today and thought, I better be careful not to unscrew the bottom of the tank by mistake.

 

[klondikes]

Forethought is the key. Being aware that it can happen can lead to practice that prevents it from happening. I sure wish I had used my head and had some forethought before I learned from experience. Now that I know, I take the precautions.

klondikes

 

[Tommy Aces]

That's why you torque tighten the clearo base to the tube and don't torque down the clearo to the Vamo
I wouldn't torque tighten anything on the vamo, it's threads aren't so good.

I think I take issue with the VAMO's threads not being so good. From my experience, and from what most reviewers have had to say, they / I am pretty gosh darned impressed with the threading on this device (I have 2 SS ones)....not only on the 510 connection, but the body and cap as well.

I'd be interested to hear what others think on this one. Maybe it's just me.

However, I do agree with you that you should never torque down anything to any PV or battery, especially a clearo w/ removable base. "Snug" is the word of the day!

 

[NeilSwift]

I think I take issue with the VAMO's threads not being so good. From my experience, and from what most reviewers have had to say, they / I am pretty gosh darned impressed with the threading on this device (I have 2 SS ones)....not only on the 510 connection, but the body and cap as well.

I'd be interested to hear what others think on this one. Maybe it's just me.

However, I do agree with you that you should never torque down anything to any PV or battery, especially a clearo w/ removable base. "Snug" is the word of the day!

I think it's just a fact that you shouldn't over tighten them. The Vamo threads are good but if you have a rebuildable be sure you don't unscrew it from itself instead of the Vamo.

 

[lagittaja]

Yeah well I think I should have phrased that better. The actual threading is good but the coating seems to be not so tolerant to constant screwing/unscrewing. This is the gun metal version of course, and I just hope the actual threadings hold up to the abuse.
It used to be black on the threads. On my atties I get black gunk on the 510 connection. I got my Vamo on 26th last month.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/mlwnazmq024ugk0/2013-03-08 01.11.15.jpg

 

[Tommy Aces]

Yeah well I think I should have phrased that better. The actual threading is good but the coating seems to be not so tolerant to constant screwing/unscrewing. This is the gun metal version of course, and I just hope the actual threadings hold up to the abuse.
It used to be black on the threads. On my atties I get black gunk on the 510 connection. I got my Vamo on 26th last month.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/mlwnazmq024ugk0/2013-03-08 01.11.15.jpg

Yeah, I got ya. From what I understand there are some wearing issues with the black chrome finish all over the device. I wasn't aware that the finish extended to the 510 connection. No such problems with either of the SS ones I have.

 

[Disconnect]

I got my first taste of pink spot juice that way (on my evic - vamo is on the way..) Didn't tighten the base of the clearo enough and when I went to unscrew, the wrong part came off. Dumped about 2ml all over myself, the steering wheel(!!) and the evic..

Now I always pull the shoulder/cap off the evic before unscrewing anything that could possibly disassemble from the bottom. (And I'm super careful with the imotion, which is basically a provari/vamo VV knockoff. Same setup as the vamo, the mod hides the actual ego threads and there is no removable cap or anything..)