Cheap USB Mod. Working, but displays "Lo" -> Power source issue?

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Pheary

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I used one of these:
Brand_New_Gold_Plated_Audio_Adapter_6.jpg

with one of these:
productimg1288248525393.jpg
Very simple hack, just widened the hole in the end cap and plugged them together. It works, reads 5.3V input but when I fire it, it just displays "Lo" or "Lo v"

Anyone have any suggestions on what I should be using as a power source to make this cheap hack work, the Vamo is clearly detecting something that prevents it from working but I have no idea if it is related to the voltage or the mA?

Here it is:

WP_20130216_009.jpg

Any help would be appreciated! :blush:
 

Thompson

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I'm not 100%, but I'm thinking you'll need a power source that'll give you a good amount of amps. USB 2.0 on a computer will have 500mA, which isn't enough for our vaping purposes (I think USB 3.0 has 1amp but, still not enough).

If you figure say a 2.4Ω coil at 3.7v, you'll need 1.54 amps.

I think tablets (mainly the ipad) require 2.1 amp charging, as I'm seeing more and more with this output. But I would say sticking with standard USB wall warts will restrict the output capacity quite a bit.

Seems like a pretty good idea you've got there with the audio jacks.
 
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Pheary

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Seems like a pretty good idea you've got there with the audio jacks.

Got the idea from my USB Indulgence adapter, it appears to work the same way just with the adapter hidden. I assume this could work on a lot of mods that don't have any sort of external power jack.

I will have a look around for a more powerful power unit. Is there any sort of voltage/mA I should not be going over, just to be on the safe side haha?

Thanks for the information Thompson!
 

Cjax

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The vamo uses boost/buck circuitry for either single or stacked batts, so I would assume if you stayed within the perameters of those configurations with your input voltage it would work. Maybe better said, since a fully charged single batt is 4.2v and a fully drained pair of batts bottoms out probly around 7.2v your input of 5.3v falls into that nether-region so the circuit throws a Lo v code. If you could get a power source to input volts within said battery volt values it may work.

None of this is taking into account amp draw and is pure speculation, but that's my thoughts.
 

Pheary

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I have now tried it at 6.7v and 8.3v and it changes from "Lo v" to "Lo". I assume that means there isn't enough amperage, but the voltage is fine.

Thanks for the reply Cjax, that is what I am worried about. If I was to get a 5v 3a power unit, would it read as "Lo v" because it detects a voltage in some sort of nether-region as you say, despite the fact that 3a at 5v should in theory be enough (15W?). I saw some reviews on YouTube and some of them mentioned that there had been tests done on this device by some German forum members, so I would imagine there is some decent data somewhere, but I cannot find anything.

I don't have a high enough variable device to do anything over 1a at the moment, I will keep trying and report back if I manage to get it firing up :toast:

Thanks for the help so far.
 

Cjax

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Well my theories about the voltage lying in that middle ground were just that, theories. However, I think there was another post where someone was getting Lo v readings from using freshly charged Trustfires, or some other type battery without sufficient amperage. That could very well be the issue. Keep at it, I'd be interested to see if you get this working so I can mirror your results!
 

Pheary

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Keep at it, I'd be interested to see if you get this working so I can mirror your results!

Oh no, now I am under pressure :evil: haha!

I found a 5v 2a power unit but it returned "lo v" - only thing I have that is 3a is a 12v one but I am too afraid to try it :oops:

Is there such a thing as a variable voltage and variable amp unit? I am no electrician unfortunately, out of my depth here!
 

Covert

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It maxes out at 5 amps , watts range from 3 to 15 and voltage runs from 3v to 6v. So just based on most china mods i've messed with you cannot use any source that puts out more than 4.2V and i'm assuming anything with a lower voltage than say 3.2 to 3.5V will lead to a "LO" reading. Your source must also possess the ability to handle a constant 5 amp draw. Well that is unless you have a pretty good understanding of ohms law and use RBA's. Then you have the ability to wrap a higher ohm coil that will produce a low amperage draw. If you have any other question lemme know :D I know it's a bit to take in lol i'm still learning ; ) Your going to have to build something like provapes passthrough for the Provari well unless you can get one of these http://www.mastechpowersupply.com/d...inear-power-supply-30v-6a-hy3006d/prod_4.html
 
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Thompson

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The new Provape pass-through accessory comes to mind, and it comes with something more like a laptop adapter or a car 12v plug, 12v or less input.

ProVari Pass Thru

But from that pic you can see the circuitry in the part that replaces the battery, so a regulation circuit of some kind?

Looking at the side of my older PSU in my desktop, the 5v rail has an amperage rating of 34, and the 12v rails 18a. A molex connector wouldn't exactly be the most aesthetically pleasing but I can't think of a stronger source of power so readily available? It would definitely need something to regulate/step down in between the device and PSU though.
 
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