Clear juice turns red in atomizer...Why?!

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Cromeus

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I just tested all of the individual parts of the KFL from FT with a strong magnet. SS is not magnetic. None of the parts were attracted to the magnet except for the screws, so they are not SS and will need to be replaced.
Actually, the reason the main body is non-magnetic is because it's made of 300 series stainless steel, which includes kitchen, marine, and surgical grades. Screws made from stainless generally aren't made from the same series, and are this magnetic.
Re: Most stainless steels ARE magnetic. Steels that contain both nickel and chromium(300 series) are not.

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Vapoor eyes er

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I just tested all of the individual parts of the KFL from FT with a strong magnet. SS is not magnetic. None of the parts were attracted to the magnet except for the screws, so they are not SS and will need to be replaced.

The vast majority of SS screws are from the 300 series. The 300 series SS provides a stronger metal thus ensuring a screw/ bolt driver can be used without stripping the head. Being from China they prolly used SS grade 304 cuz it's less expensive. As far as magnetism it occurs during the process of cold forming by being in contact with various non SS metal. When installing SS screws we used specialty tools to avoid cross contamination which "could" lead to corrosion. Ask any boat owner that does his own repairs/ maintenance and they'll always advise to buy 316 SS screws.
 

jamesoner

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Hi Wheysted and welcome to the forums!

The inferior screws found on many chinese clones do rust when they come in contact with water or certain eliquids - that's why you're experiencing this. That means you'll have to replace the screws with stainless steel (SS) ones ASAP, as I'm sure you don't want to inhale rust! Check out this FastTech thread on another clone (the Kayfun Lite) to see what I mean...

As a side note, don't buy stainless steel (SS) screws on eBay because they very well may end up being same quality as the ones your clones are coming with!

Hope that helps.


Hello everyone! First post here. Never had to make an account before, because all my questions were answered through previous posts. However, now I have a problem that I cannot seem to find a solution... I am not sure if this is the right section to post this in, but since I am a new member, I cannot post in the other sub forums.

My first RDA was a IGO-L from Fast-tech. After a few days of vaping, I noticed that I had red juice in my wick and around the base. I know that IGO-L are cheaply made from Fast-tech, so I just stopped using it.

I recently bought an Omega clone from eBay...Yeah, another China manufactured atomizer, but I thought I would give it another shot.

The same issue I had from the IGO-L is occurring in the omega. I strictly use clear juice, but I am seeing red juice on my wick. The red juice is especially prominent on the screws for the +/- poles.

I decided to do a test by dripping liquid directly onto the screw's head. No surprise, the juice turned red. All testing is done with MT BAKER juice.

Does anyone have a reasoning for why this happens? I know that juice can darken when exposed to oxygen, but this red? I was thinking it was rust from the screws, but the screws themselves are not damaged. The red juice just wipes off, exposing the shiny screw.

I have attached two photos for the before/after test.
View attachment 293150
View attachment 293152


Is the juice reacting with the screws and turning red? Why does it do that?

I have a feeling that the screws are not stainless steel, so I purchased new stainless steel screws...

Has anyone had this problem before with clones? Any suggestions?

Thank you!

EDIT: There is no nicotine in my juices, so that minuses one factor out.
 
Thank you everyone for their help! I have learned a lot actually from reading your posts, especially the information on the different types of steel for screws. Very interesting actually.


Hi Wheysted and welcome to the forums!

The inferior screws found on many chinese clones do rust when they come in contact with water or certain eliquids - that's why you're experiencing this. That means you'll have to replace the screws with stainless steel (SS) ones ASAP, as I'm sure you don't want to inhale rust! Check out this FastTech thread on another clone (the Kayfun Lite) to see what I mean...

As a side note, don't buy stainless steel (SS) screws on eBay because they very well may end up being same quality as the ones your clones are coming with!

Hope that helps.

Bingo!

I just got in my stainless steel screws from Amazon (thank you prime shipping..here in like one day!). I repeated the test with the new screws, and guess what? NO MORE RUST! The new screws are slightly magnetic if you guys were wondering. The new screws are much less magnetic than the China screws.

Here is the link again for the screws:
Stainless Steel Machine Screw, Plain Finish, Pan Head, Phillips Drive, 4mm Length, M2-0.4 Threads (Pack of 100): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

The screws fit perfectly on my Omega clone and my FT IGO-L. I highly recommend replacing your screws just in case! Its only $5 for 100 screws, so why risk it?

On a side note, the omega clone is pretty awesome with the new screws, and it was only $30!
 
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