I wonder how much wattage you need to reach 4A switch limit
Just ventured a bit in the VW-realm and found out even 8-9W is a bit too much for me. 7-7.5W is my sweet spot.
Now 'back' to 'topic', any tank recommendation for CE2/CE3? Arry tank from Stormy Cellar, MAP tank, Torpedo Tank all looks good but pricey. Bombtank from Bombay Vaping is promising but the 'bolt' look kinda weird...
OR... any tricks to put CE2/CE3 into DCT? Especially 808 (female thread into tank is kinda... flaky) - or will it better to use an adapter for that purpose?
gotta go back in the thread for all the SteelJan reviews of the ce2/tank mods out there. The best way is to make your own. Buy any premade ones and they all have problems. Easier to deal with if it's your own. And you can't beat the ce2/ce4+ mod for pretty and functional. I'm sorry. I keep promising a how to.
In brief, it's a punched out 2-3 ml syringe stopper for the grommet. Use an old ce2 thread without the post attached to punch because it's thinner than a carto shell. Number #5 oring just above the last vottom flair of the grommet. Tuck it in the shell up to the last flair lip and insert the xl ce2. You may need to tuck the oring in the shell all the way with a thin flat head screwdriver. Careful not to poke through the make shift silicon grommet. The ce2 thread will go in as far as the bottom grommet. The lip bottom of on the ce2 thread base will keep it from being pushed in too far so the vents stay below the grommet but keep an eye on it. If you have the separate 510/vgo silver ring from the bottom of the ce4, you can dress it up with it but it's not important. It is important if you venture out with it attached to your battery because the base adds stability to keep the ce2 base from wiggling in the shell. Any wiggling lets in a drop of juice...a drop attracts another drop...etc...etc...until a leak forms. This is the way it is with any tank.
For a top seal, believe it or not, it's the silicon rubber top piece without the nipple from the ce4+ without the metal nipple. I guess what sucks for one thing works in another. Make slits on each side of the silicon about a milimeter wider on each side than the wicks. Stop about a milimeter from the top. Then as best as you can, snip the hole wider. You should have a clear view of the coil when you look down in. Be careful not to make a cut in the silicon that goes down over the edge. A crack will ruin the seal and wick up juice.
For a mouthpiece, take your screw on tip that comes with the ce4+/turbo/stardust. Saw or dremel off the part that enters the shell, just below the metal threads....as close as possible. I actually do this very crudely with the saw that is on my leatherman. I sand it later for a smoother airflow. It takes only a couple of minutes. You now have a screw on top.
The xls work best becasuse they go all the way up to the top of the ce4 shell. keep in mind, this mod is only as good as the ce2 inside.
For a bigger tank......use a bigger syringe shell for the body. You need two of them because you need to make two grommets. Measure the shell, so than when you cut it, the top of the ce2 cup will be just inside the top grommet and you can still use the modded silicon top sleeve from a ce4 as a top seal The best part is that you can use a regular 510/808 drip tip.
*** at the bottom of the shell....the grommet goes in flat side down. The last ridge/flair is your stopper. The top (if you make a big tank version) would point the same way so that it is more rounded at the top, the top ridge/flair acting as a stopper.
