Oh, sorry, the mymod conversion. That's why I didn't respond earlier cause I thought you were only talking about the CAM-M.
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I really don't have a way to change the button. What's the issue?
Lots of misfires. Maybe a longer button with the same mechanism can have a firmer contact.
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I've found that the button needs as much tlc as rhe rest of the mod. I use one of those pink flat erasers to clean it. Rub the flat underside of the button back and forth on the flat side of the eraser until it's Shiney, then hit the side of the button with said eraser and clean as best you can. I've found I can get the sides quite clean this way. Then I buff out the inner sleeve of the button opening on the mod itself. The same eraser works well here, though it can be a little difficult to squeeze it in there. If things are really nasty I hit all those same surfaces with 800 grit sandpaper. Once cleaned everything gets a wipe with rubbing alcohol and set to dry. Finally all those surfaces get treated with Deoxit. That usually does it for at least two weeks of heavy use, though if the 510 is especially leaky then all bets are off.
If you want I will research a stronger pair of magnets. Silver or gold plating the button would help also.
Yes. That's what I do and it gets me going for a day or two and then I start having the misfires and I start rotating the button to get to that spot where it makes firmer contact. Other than that it's a brilliant mod IMO.
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I have a feeling that if the area under the button remained bone dry ( read no leaking) that would solve most of our issues. Of course it's mechanical and would still require maintenance, but it should be much less frequent. On my best setup I still get a thin film of liquid under the button after a few days, and I've tried everything I can think of to eliminate the leaks. While we're on the subject, I also clean and Deoxit the areas where the battery door and body interface as well as the battery contacts and apply Noalux to the battery screw threads.
I use the eraser and alcohol before the deoxit on the battery contacts and the button. I noticed that Noalox on the button keeps it working longer even if the 510 is leaking. But it's extremely messy and cleaning it is a pain in the ..... But you're right ..if the leaking stops it will solve most and maybe all of the button problems.
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That would be splendid Tom. I didn't know that stronger magnets would help.
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All the stronger magnet would do is make you pus a little harder but that would also make you deflect a little more. The deflection is what forces the copper button into the actual aluminum and IMO the magnet always felt a bit weak to me, like it would be too easy to accidentally push in the pocket and auto fire.
The best solution would be a stronger magnet and a heavy gold or silver plating of the button. That in conjunction with the VTBF auto 510 would make that mod a contender. I have no clue how to get the gold plating done at a decent price however. The side benefit of the gold plating would be the slightly increased diameter of the button so it would need slightly less deflection to begin with.
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I never had that feeling that it could autofire, but I trust your judgement ...and your obsession with perfection! Do whatever you think is best.
I didn't have a chance to give it a proper cleaning before sending it because my friend was flying to the US the very next day and I had to pass it by her in a hurry. So I apologize if things are a bit messy BTW
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You should see some of the attys I receive as send ins.... Build and wick still intact and dripping with what looked like liquid feces. I wasn't happy. As long as it's not dripping I will work it out.
If gold plating is problematic can you get a silver plating at a decent price? The mod has always been a contender for me. Hits harder than anything else I tried and crazy battery life between charges; at least with how I vape. The only down side has been the leaking. Other than that with the simple tlc Hildi mentioned every now and then it's brilliant! No wonder Hildi has 6 CAM-Ms! I would love to get more myself.
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Can i throw in my
here.I find the white eraser works better than the pink ... plus it is also available in a "pen" form, so it's easy to get into tight place.
It looks like this, and you can find them in office supplies, and in school supply departments ... cheap too
Then I finish off with NO-OX-ID (on a Q-tip), which is an electrical lubricant that prevents the formation of oxides, sulfides and other corrosion deposits.
Not gritty, or sandy .. very "clean" to use.
I've tried all kinds of "suggestions" from others, and these two were the pick of the litter for me. Just thought I would pass it on
Can i throw in my
I find the white eraser works better than the pink ... plus it is also available in a "pen" form, so it's easy to get into tight place.
It looks like this, and you can find them in office supplies, and in school supply departments ... cheap too
View attachment 602923
Then I finish off with NO-OX-ID (on a Q-tip), which is an electrical lubricant that prevents the formation of oxides, sulfides and other corrosion deposits.
Not gritty, or sandy .. very "clean" to use.
I've tried all kinds of "suggestions" from others, and these two were the pick of the litter for me. Just thought I would pass it on
Agree!
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Huh well im about a month with mine and the rubber coating is now chipping at corners. Showing white paint under the rubber.
Lol... No chipping or peeling on this one... These aren't disposable either. Something breaks, I fix it. Period....
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