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Chowderhead1972

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These for the O HD?
Yes.
 

beckdg

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These for the O HD?
That uses a 2mm driver.

I use a 1.5mm driver for nearly all my atties, personally.

To achieve that, 3mm posts get grub screws, 2.5mm posts get button head screws and 2mm posts get cap head screws.

So I'd get button heads for that, personally.

McMaster-Carr

Not 316, but IME, they'll be just fine.

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beckdg

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Yes Beck, I found those you mentioned in your vid, but apparently the chinarda needs a cap to hold the wire. I do believe the button heads will work for the O hd same cap diameter, bet I can't see how a grub will work on the Narda.
Simple.

I won't buy a Narda.

Problem solved. [emoji14]

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Chowderhead1972

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Simple.

I won't buy a Narda.

Problem solved. [emoji14]

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
I sold off all my authentic Narda's to those titilated by all things expensive. I do have 3 or 4 modified chinardas however. I learned my lesson on the E-Phoenix Resurection ($265) more money and more rare just means it costs more doesn't mean it works better.
 

Kentastic

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Anyone have the LBC Jr drawing the battery down to below 1V when not in use?

I had that problem on a Vapedroid DNA75 mod (non-squonk). Ended up having to send it in for repair. Kept ruining batteries if I'd forget to take it out overnight. It also would never turn off. The screen would go black, but as soon as you hit the fire button it would come right back up without showing the "boot up" screen. Which is why it drains the batteries overnight. It never goes into low power mode.
 

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Squonkamaniac
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I had that problem on a Vapedroid DNA75 mod (non-squonk). Ended up having to send it in for repair. Kept ruining batteries if I'd forget to take it out overnight. It also would never turn off. The screen would go black, but as soon as you hit the fire button it would come right back up without showing the "boot up" screen. Which is why it drains the batteries overnight. It never goes into low power mode.
That's what's going on with mine.
 

Chowderhead1972

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I'm starting to think the issue is the carbon fiber in the Nylon is slightly conductive. I have noticed a drop of a few percent if left overnight typically 10% or less. I initially chocked it up to the new battery technology being more like a lipo than a li-ion. I'm working on a solution which will probably be a small rectangle of peek and a non conductive screw to go between the positive terminal and the mod and the screw to hold the 2 pieces together.
 

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Squonkamaniac
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I'm starting to think the issue is the carbon fiber in the Nylon is slightly conductive. I have noticed a drop of a few percent if left overnight typically 10% or less. I initially chocked it up to the new battery technology being more like a lipo than a li-ion. I'm working on a solution which will probably be a small rectangle of peek and a non conductive screw to go between the positive terminal and the mod and the screw to hold the 2 pieces together.
Tom, I'm not using carbon fiber. I have the metal plates on the mod like it was shipped. Something is killing my batteries, two of the batteries were below 1V when I put them on the charger. The first one I thought I must have just received a faulty battery, after it happened to the second battery I realized it must be the mod.
 

Chowderhead1972

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Tom, I'm not using carbon fiber. I have the metal plates on the mod like it was shipped. Something is killing my batteries, two of the batteries were below 1V when I put them on the charger. The first one I thought I must have just received a faulty battery, after it happened to the second battery I realized it must be the mod.
The carbon fiber is in the nylon 3d print. This why this material is so strong and light. The ss plates may actually make the issue worse.

How long does it take yours to get from 4.2v to 1v?
 
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