Coils in series vs Parallel in Mason RDA

[zer0boy]

I decided against jumping the gun and heading into the AtV forum and would try here first.

I have built my own coils or used notch coils since I started vaping(about 3-4 months). I started with .2-.3 ohm claptons in the Kanger Toptank mini and Wismec Indestructible and moved on from the toptank to the Theorem when it was released. I have purchased a Mason 40mm and have a few questions about building it when it arrives. Sidenote: I will be using a Kanger 200w/ Reuleaux rx200 with it.

I loved the notch coils and I have been tinkering of the idea of running 4 of them in the Mason RDA. It has 2 negative post options per side and 4 positive post options per side. Now if I understand correctly, if I run each coil to its own positive hole and negative hole I would end up with around .0625 Ohms. That is way to low for me and my mod. My question is multiple parts and lies within: There are 2 negative posts on the RDA, each with 2 holes for leads. Now is each hole considered a separate negative , or is every lead in the same post considered on the same negative? Does this apply the same for the positive bar with 4 lead holes in the middle?

On that note, I have been reading and stumble across some basic science that suggests "Resistances is series (i.e. positive lead> coil> coil> coil> negative lead) will add together."
Now does that mean if I run all 4 middle leads into the same positive hole on the RDA will that give a total of .25 ohms? My thought process in this is basically: 2 notch coils @.25 on the left side running into the same positive for a total of .5 ohms left side mirroring the same process on the ride side giving me a grand total of .25 ohms overall, or would this net me a total of .5 ohms?

The Mason 40mm has 2 negative posts on the sides with 2 lead holes each and a positive posts in the middle with 4 lead holes.

 

[bwh79]

There are 2 negative posts on the RDA, each with 2 holes for leads. Now is each hole considered a separate negative , or is every lead in the same post considered on the same negative? Does this apply the same for the positive bar with 4 lead holes in the middle?

Yes, all the negatives are the "same" negative, and all the positives are the "same" positive. To run coils in series you will need something with a "neutral" post in between the positive and negative like the Rafale X (or just make two coils on the same piece of wire, with a little straight part in between. I'm not sure what the point is, in either case, since as far as I can tell it's just going to act like one longer coil either way, but there you have it.)

 

[zer0boy]

Yes, all the negatives are the "same" negative, and all the positives are the "same" positive. To run coils in series you will need something with a "neutral" post in between the positive and negative like the Rafale X (or just make two coils on the same piece of wire, with a little straight part in between. I'm not sure what the point is, in either case, since as far as I can tell it's just going to act like one longer coil either way, but there you have it.)

Well the thing with notch coils is they are a single prefabricated coil, so what you have is it. I don't want to go below the initial .25 ohms of a single notch coils when I add the other three. Thus far I was assuming it would work similar to my Indestructible. I built two claptons at .61/.63 and thus ended up with a net total of .32 ohms. So if I put 4 notch coils @.25 ohms I am assuming it would crank me down to .06. Am I just over thinking it?

 

[bwh79]

So if I put 4 notch coils @.25 ohms I am assuming it would crank me down to .06. Am I just over thinking it?

No, that's how it would work. Here is an image depicting how two loads ("coils") can be connected to a power source. On the left you see two resistors ("coils") wired in parallel. Blue indicates the negative terminal and red indicates the positive. Since both coils are connected to the negative on one end and positive on the other, electricity flowing from the negative to the positive can go through either one, and it will take both paths in proportion to their relative resistances. The total resistance for a parallel circuit is: RT = 1 / ((1/R1) + (1/R2) + (1/R3) + ...) or more simply, with two identical coils, RT = Rc/2 where Rc is the resistance of each coil individually. For your 4x .25Ω coils that works out to 1/16 of an ohm or .0625Ω in total. Might be okay on some regulated devices but I wouldn't try it on a mech.

On the right are two coils wired in series. There is only one path for the electricity to flow from negative to positive, and it goes through both coils one after the other. Green represents the "neutral post" and you'll notice that it's not connected to either terminal of the battery -- it might as well not be there at all, as far as the circuit is concerned. The total resistance for a series circuit is simply all the individual resistances added together RT = R1 + R2 + R3 + ... or again, two identical coils makes it simpler and we can just say RT = 2 * Rc

 

[zer0boy]

I would never dream of going any lower than .3 on a my noisy cricket, and I prefer to keep it around .4. I was really hoping to run notch coils in the mason, but I guess I'll just play it safe and builds some 1 ohm or such. My Kanger 200, will only read lower than .1 in TC and I absolutely loathe TC. Thank you for the informative and quick replies!

 

[Bunnykiller]

I like to make 7-8 single wrap coils in series.. or is it a single coil with 7-8 wraps??

 

[suprtrkr]

+1. You aren't going to series notch coils like that. You could twist the legs together between them and only connect the two outer legs, but that would leave the center legs dangling, just aching to ground out. If I were going to try that-- I'm not, and don't recommend you do-- I'd solder them together in the center, if you can solder stainless, which ain't easy. Not sure about the chemicals, soldering SS requires some strong acid. You'd want to clean that very carefully. And use 100% silver solder. Lead based solder is poisonous.

Why don't you just build some coils? If you've got a 40mm atty, there would be plenty of room to use stainless wire and still get reasonable resistance. Twisting a pair of connected coils, with a short piece of straight wire between them, would let you wick them separately for better juice transport.

 

[zer0boy]

Yea, I'm just going to build some coils. I just really wanted to use notch coils, I love them. The idea of vaping, even with tc, at .06ohms is beyond what I consider safe or practical. I'll likely build around 4@.8 for a net .2ish.

I'm not familiar enough with soldering to get into that sort of work.