Cold Pen-Style Atomizers. Broken wiring? NOPE!

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Good to hear your feedback; and that it was successful.

We still don't know how important the cold-quench-shatter aspect is; whether it is important or not, or maybe more effective than the cola.

Maybe you can try one after cola but without the quenching, see if also improved (you can still do the quenching if necessary).
 

Sun Vaporer

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I don't have a bad atomizer (yet), but has anyone tried putting one in the freezer for awhile and then dipping it in boiling water ?
Same principle in reverse. Contract and expand.


500KV--Interesting?? I think I will give it a try--I have tried so many things--who knows, this might be another safe way if it works. I will report--Sun
 

ApOsTle51

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initial results :

Right well i had a collection of 6 wimpy 901 atomizers and 2 classic ones.

Im an all or nothing kinda guy, so all 8 have gone into a glass of coke cola classic.

Its been 1 hour and i removed one 901 atomizer to check progress. Rinsed it out under the tap and dried it out, attached to the screwdriver and heated it red hot and quenched in cold water , I heated and quenched 3 times.

Loaded it up with a little juicie , around 6 drops ( thirsty little sucker) then popped in a fresh cart, let it sit for a minute or 2 and gave it a go .

Works great now , I would say about 80 % new function , great stuff.

Gonna let the others sit in the coke for a couple more hours and try another one .
Update later ;)
hmm , dunno if you can soak them too long but out of the 8 atomizer only 2 901 atomizers made improvement, the other 4 901 and 2 classic atomizers didn't appear to improve. Still , saved 2 of them so all is not lost.
 

olderthandirt

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deeptrout

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A possi le problem with a longer soak in cola is the possibility of ending up with a sticky sugar residue.

so when you are done soaking it in the cola (bobble bath method or otherwise) toss it into some hot water to get the cola off and while we are throwing it in a sonic cleaner why not finish off the whole process in an autoclave........what im the only one who has one lying around the house?
 

louann5840

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I wanted to see the coil, so I took off all the mesh, and under that was a tiny white plastic cylinder and inside was the coil. the coil was full of of black stuff, which I guess is the carbon...lots of it inside the coil. Of course there's no way to put it back together at this point.LOL
BUT, also under the mesh, I have a black plastic piece that just has a tiny slit in it. I wonder why the slit has to be there? That just allows juice to get into the battery...and 2 tiny holes for the wires.
Also between the outer and and inner cylinder there was some kind of white substance. Since my atty was flooded this was all wet and falling apart. That caused the outer cylinder to slide around and juice was squeezing out. I believe that white substance should not have been there to soak up the juice like that. If it hadn't started sliding around, and not let the juice go inbetween the inner and outer cylinder, the wire would not have become detached. I didn't realize it was sliding untill it was too late. When I screwed on the battery I took hold of the cylinder and twisted the wire right off. I hope you understand what I'm saying.

I am soaking my other atty right now. Great fix. Thanks for making the videos and pics, and all your work.

Lou
 

abudman

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We should all give a full "shout out" to Terrahon for taking on a very difficult issue in this Video that plagues many of us as to why our atomizers go down hill and then go cold. As we can see, by Terrahon's efforts, that wire and coil breakage is not the reason why the majority of our atomizers fail. Thanks again for stepping up to the plate and devoting your time and effort to help all of our members understand what is going and what can be done----Sun :thumb:


I'm giving two shouts, one for Terrahon and one for you Sun Vaporer for supporting the experiment. I'm trying it now with a 3 day old atty that seems to work but I can't draw enough through it to turn the battery on.

OMG, boiling didn't work, boiling in lemon juice didn't work, putting a 4v constant power didn't work... 45 mins in my wifes Coke Zero WORKED.....
 
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Terraphon

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I'm very glad to hear that this method has been working so well for people.

I've been doing a lot of looking about, through the linkbacks and it seems that this method is scoring home-runs for people all over the world...It's been referenced in a TON of places and everyone is reporting very positive results.

Big thanks go out to Sun for pushing me to get this fix out. I'd been playing with attys for a while and he sent me several to experiment with...Had it not been for his donation to the "cause", I may have never come up with this.

Again, I'm very glad this is working out so well for so many people.

Now...On to fixing the battery issues...
 

CityGirl70

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***This was an experiment--read disclaimer at bottom of post people***

Terrapon first suggested the use of Colas for cleaning our atomizers and he hit the head right on the nail to get things started. Colas have since been reported as working for some and not for others. In a search to expound Terrapon’s hard work, many ideas and thoughts were thrown around. The perfect cleaning solution would be one that only required placing the atomizer in that safely dissolved the residue.


Last week Stone posted that while in the business of refrigeration, there was a cleaning solution that they run through Ice Makers to clean the lines and the coils and suggested that this be investigated. As it turns out, the solvent he was referring to, phosphoric acid, is the same thing that is in Colas only much stronger and contained no sugar. While colas have a 2.5% concentrate of Phosphoric acid, this compound which is FDA food grade approved has a 75% concentrate.
This is the solvent and its write up:


liquid_iceMach_cleaner.jpg


Liquid Ice Machine Cleaner

Liquid Ice Machine Cleaner is formulated for 75% phosphoric acid for removing scale deposits from ice machines and coffee urns. It is a food-grade liquid acid that is fast acting yet safe to use in this equipment. It does not give off any harsh fumes or contain chlorine or chlorides that would attack stainless steel. It is available in 8 fl. oz. bottle and 1 gallon bottles.


Taking Terrapon’s original ideal and using the following product I dismantled a RN4072 atomizer that went cold months ago. The coil had a very heavy residue build up. I placed the solvent in a glass jar and placed the atomizer in it. After 2 hours, I took it out and inspected it only to find that at least 60% of the residual was gone from the coil and there was no residual in the solvent that I could see. I then placed it back in for another 2 hours only to find that the coil itself was now visible and over 75% of the residual was gone. Again I placed it back in and left it to the 7 hour mark to find upon inspection that 90% of the residual was gone. I then left it in overnight for a total of 14 hours to find that almost all the residual was gone. I could now see why the atomizer failed in the first place. The residual built up underneath and around the coil to to point that the residual actually lifted the coil up and forced the coil to break loose from the contact point on the left side. I could not see this before the residual was dissolved by the solvent.

Today, I took 5 "whimpy" atomizers that were from months ago and placed them in the solvent for 10 hours. I then took them out, rinsed them throughly. I then re-primed them and all 5 atomizers worked like new. I further took one of the 5 apart to inspect and it the coil was clean and all contacts were solid. I can state that this solution does in fact take Terrapon’s original idea of the use of phosphoric acid in a much more concentrated formula not only works, but needs no heating. It was interesting to note that there is no deposits in the solution at all–hence the solution dissolved the residual.

I would note that this solvent does have, like other solvents many safety disclaimers when using it. I would further note that I was willing to try it as it is used in the industry to clean out ice makers and hence I conclude must rinse clean off otherwise it would taint the ice. This is the first very viable and hassle free solvent I have used that actually worked for me.
It clarifies that Terrapon’s original idea was in fact leading us on the right road. I wish to thank all members who have attempted to try different approaches to make these atomizers not "consumable’ parts. I also thank Stone for the idea of this product and Kinalooboo for all of his thoughts and advise with regards to this effort. Remember that this is not the intended purpose of this product by any means and I only am reporting what worked for me. There is an inherent risk to using any solvent--so use at your own risk. —Sun



DISCLAIMER: This was an experiment and I choose to use it as suggested by Stone: Remember, that these are chemicals and it is not the indented purpose of the product. So do not use if you do not want to take any risks. I am not advocating its use and only reporting my findings as Stone reccomended this product and I thought I would give it a go, I used it because I think that it rinses clean and leaves no residual and the logic being that if you are going to run it though an ice maker and then conume the ice after is is rinsed out, then it should not be leaving a residue. But that is me and my logic (a desperate soul looking for an way to save my may be soon banned atomizers from demise. we are not telling anyone else they should use it. It is dangerous and not advised and anyone that does not heed to warnings does so at their own risk. Again people, these are experiments!!.
.


See Nu-Calgon: Products: Ice Machine Filtration

I read so much in this post I cant recall if someone said that the atomizers were made with nickel or had nickel in them?
I am going to buy some, but was wondering if I should get the nickel safe kind?
The regular one you pictured I can get on Ebay and it says "
New Nu-Calgon 4207-47 8 flo. oz. Liquid Ice Machine Cleaner is formulated for 75% phosphoric acid for removing scale deposits from ice machines and coffee urns. It is a food-grade liquid acid that is fast acting yet safe to use in this equipment. It does not give off any harsh fumes or contain chlorine or chlorides that would attack stainless steel. "

Coke/Pepsi products do not last long in my house :wub:
 

Terraphon

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I read so much in this post I cant recall if someone said that the atomizers were made with nickel or had nickel in them?
I am going to buy some, but was wondering if I should get the nickel safe kind?
The regular one you pictured I can get on Ebay and it says "
New Nu-Calgon 4207-47 8 flo. oz. Liquid Ice Machine Cleaner is formulated for 75% phosphoric acid for removing scale deposits from ice machines and coffee urns. It is a food-grade liquid acid that is fast acting yet safe to use in this equipment. It does not give off any harsh fumes or contain chlorine or chlorides that would attack stainless steel. "

Coke/Pepsi products do not last long in my house :wub:
Hi, Citygirl.

The atomizer does, in fact, contain nickel. It is made of a metal called "Nichrome" which is a Nickel and Chromium alloy.

I'm not sure the ratio in the alloy that is used for e-cigs but the most common is 80% nickel, 20% chromium. I would think that it's definitely best to get the stuff that's "nickel safe".

That being said, I'm still not convinced as to the safety of using this stuff. I haven't read the whole thread because I've been away for a while but has anyone done "clinical trials" to see if there's an increased chance of earthquake, meteor strike, plane crash, drowning or other forms of death whilst vaping an atomizer that's been cleaned with this stuff?

If it's safe, go for it...If there's no evidence of that, I'd be hesitant.
 

Sun Vaporer

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I read so much in this post I cant recall if someone said that the atomizers were made with nickel or had nickel in them?
I am going to buy some, but was wondering if I should get the nickel safe kind?
The regular one you pictured I can get on Ebay and it says "
New Nu-Calgon 4207-47 8 flo. oz. Liquid Ice Machine Cleaner is formulated for 75% phosphoric acid for removing scale deposits from ice machines and coffee urns. It is a food-grade liquid acid that is fast acting yet safe to use in this equipment. It does not give off any harsh fumes or contain chlorine or chlorides that would attack stainless steel. "

Coke/Pepsi products do not last long in my house :wub:

City Girl--Terraphon is right. Nu-Calgon was just an experiment and there is no proof at all that it is safe. I do not employ it as I think it is too harsh a chemical for regular use--------Sun
 

hxj

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Sorry to dredge up an old thread, but it's fascinating reading, and now I have a question:

Terraphon's original theory was that the carbonic acid in Pepsi might be able to remove the carbon deposits on the atomizer coil. Pepsi did prove to be surprisingly effective, but in his followup video, Terraphon recommended using plain soda water instead of Pepsi, since that would be all the benefits of carbonic acid without any of the sugar and other gunk to have to rinse out.

Now, at some point, opinion swayed to thinking that the phosphoric acid in colas was actually what was doing the job, moreso than the carbonic acid. But I can't seem to find exactly what made people start thinking this. I know that it led to Sun's experiment with the ice machine cleaner, which was very successful, but the difference between 75% phosphoric acid and the very low concentration in cola is vast.

So isn't it possible that it really WAS the carbonic acid in the Pepsi that did most of the heavy lifting? More to the point, has anyone actually tried using soda water to see if it's more, less, or equally effective? (I'd try it myself right now, but I already used Coke to restore all my dying atomizers. D'oh!)
 
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