Dead 801 atomizer - A closer look

[smonomo]

A three week old TW-801 atomizer suddenly went cold on me, I picked up my 5volt mod to take a puff, and nothing, completely dead.
I very carefully tried the Jaaxx method to fix it, but no go..

I took it apart, peeled away two layers of mesh to expose the ceramic bowl.
The coil running across the bowl was encased in a black sheath, looked like carbon to me.
I took a small pair of needle nose and gently squeezed the black sheath, the black stuff crumbled and fell away exposing a thin spring like wire coil, the wire was broken at one end, I don't think I broke it when squeezing the coil.

The black sheath?..thoughts?

I hate to lose an atomizer, but to be honest, I've been waiting for one to die so that I could take a close look at one and see what I'm dealing with.

I guess his brother is in similar shape, so I reckon I'm on thin ice right now.

btw, These two attys have been totally neglected, no cleaning, and had a rough first week of life. I need to get way more than 3 weeks out of an atty.

 

[Discraft]

Im curious what makes up the coil. My 801 giving me problems. Lasted about 2-3 weeks. I can see under the highbridge some kkinda string wick material.

 

[emus]

I direct drip and occasionally clean atties.
Mine have lasted several months so far.
Only atty I lost is the one I dropped on concrete.
I keep coil wet to minimize overheating and carbon buildup.

 

[Discraft]

Emus, do you use the high bridge or low bridge attys.

 

[breakfastchef]

Three weeks is a decent lifespan of an 801, particularly if you are using a higher voltage device. The black buildup is left-over, burned and dried debris from e-liquids you have vaped. They all look like that in as little as a week. Chances are you did not break the heating coil during the dissection, it was probably already broken.

The best way to deal with atomizers is to invest in a cheap multimeter. If you find an atomzer has no continuity, it is worth ptitching as no cleaning methods can correct a physical break in the wire. I have noted that a new 801 runs around 3.5 ohms. When the resistance reads over 10 or so ohms, it is FTD (fixin' to die). A sure sign that the resistance has increased is a reduction in vapor volume. When I have to work hard to get any type of vapor off an atomizer, more times than not, the resistance has risen two or three fold.

 

[emus]

Emus, do you use the high bridge or low bridge attys.

Been vaping over 1 year.
Use RN4081, M401 and 510.
All three have a lot of miles w/o problems.

Had one die when I dropped it.

 

[nubee]

The black stuff is most likely carbon....byproduct from the juice upon heating/vaping.

The break you describe, from what I've read and seen myself, seems to be the #1 cause of atty death.

The Nichrome wire (heater) oxidizes over time and that may contribute to the carbon build up but even a light bulb eventually quits.

I've not found or read anything other than HCl (do not use) that will break down the carbon.

PS - 3 weeks on 5v is pretty good life time too.

 

[Smooth Opervapor]

Three weeks is a decent lifespan of an 801

My RN4081 from puresmoker has lasted me since March. I hardly clean atty and I drip daily on atty and cart. I've had one battery die and that is the only causality since I started vaping.

 

[emus]

The black stuff is most likely carbon....byproduct from the juice upon heating/vaping.

The break you describe, from what I've read and seen myself, seems to be the #1 cause of atty death.

The Nichrome wire (heater) oxidizes over time and that may contribute to the carbon build up but even a light bulb eventually quits.

I've not found or read anything other than HCl (do not use) that will break down the carbon.

PS - 3 weeks on 5v is pretty good life time too.

I don't understand how HCl can break down carbon?

I know from experience that an extended dry burn can form and/or dislodge some carbon. I save this knowledge for last resort cleaning.

 

[smonomo]

I direct drip and occasionally clean atties.
Mine have lasted several months so far.
Only atty I lost is the one I dropped on concrete.
I keep coil wet to minimize overheating and carbon buildup.

WOW!!!

umm..

Model number:
Serial number:
Batch number:
Color:
Manufacturer:
Supplier:
Date of birth:

occasionally clean atties.

Share technique?

 

[emus]

WOW!!!

umm..

Model number:
Serial number:
Batch number:
Color:
Manufacturer:
Supplier:
Date of birth:
Share technique?

Rn4081: ebay- over 1 yr old atty
M401: litecigusa - about 3 months old atty
510: vaporstation -about 4 or 5 months old atty

I clean atties about once a week with H2O and PGA.
recently added mouthwash per Satty's (spelling?) post.
Haven't noticed much difference in PGA and mouthwash except mouthwash is cheaper and PGA dries (primes) quick.

I believe the key is to direct drip. Get in the rhythm of when to drip to avoid flooding or running atty too dry. A good wet atty helps keep coil cool and reduces carbon (burnt juice) buildup.

M401 direct drip procedure: 2 drops juice, 9 to 13 puffs, repeat.

 

[smonomo]

emus,

I'm going to have to pick your brain a bit here. If you're making attys last for months on end, then you must be doing something right..

I clean atties about once a week with H2O and PGA.

Now would that be a quick swish for a few minutes, or a more extensive overnight soaking?

 

[emus]

I clean atty about once a week.

Drip a few drops of PGA into atty and blow out. Repeat.
Drip several drops of mouthwash till starts coming out other end then put the rubber cart condom on the atty. Fill atty up with mouthwash and soak overnight.
Rinse with a few drops distilled H2O then blow out. Repeat.
Rinse with a few drops PGA then blow out. Repeat.
Install atty and prime with a couple drops PGA till vapor production begins.
Direct drip 2 to 4 drops eliq on atty.
Take about 8 to 13 puffs.
Repeat direct drip...

I believe the key is to keep atty coil wet so eliquid does not burn into a carbon slag on the coil.

 

[smonomo]

I copy!..

and thanks to breakfastchef, nubee, and SmoothOpervapor for your 2cents..


btw, I just picked up 2 BE112's, didn't like them at first, very tight draw compared to the TW's very loose draw, but this BE112 is hitting like a champ atm.