Complicated builds. Are they so much better.
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I'm a simple builder so can't help much there but I've seen tanks use twisted, claptons, hollow verticals etc, you just have to take the space limitations in consideration
If you can power it and physically fit the coil in the atomizer, you can run it. Drippers are, for the most part, ONLY easier to build on than most tanks. Tamk atty's tend to have SMALLER decks and smaller chambers, so the tend to be built COOLER than drippers. Also tanks can have issues with feeding high power coils with enough juice. Also when you go running at high wattage and high temps you have to be concerned with the materials used Particullarly the insulators. You don't want to be melting stuff.
I personally think it has more to do with the Atty having a good design and then your skill in tuning the build.
But I do not in anyway think people should stop innovating, every so often someone stumbles upon something that benefits everyone.
I'm with vapero I'm a simple builder. I don't even micro, give me some ribbon in a well designed dripper or a couple wraps on some mesh in a genni.
But I do not in anyway think people should stop innovating, every so often someone stumbles upon something that benefits everyone.
I'm with vapero I'm a simple builder. I don't even micro, give me some ribbon in a well designed dripper or a couple wraps on some mesh in a genni.
Twisted wire builds are handy for lowering your resistance with high gauge wire like 30ga and above but as far as being better , not that I can detect , the zipper and clapton are just something to do on a rainy day IMO . I've gone through all kinds of builds in my atty's but I haven't found anything has much of an advantage over a simple single strand horizontal coil .
The parallel coil IMO is great but the other stuff I cant really detect to big of a difference I think its just cool haha. Twisted is good for dropping your resistance and I have been enjoying the way a parallel coil with different gauges and materials for each strand vapes. I do 22 gauge kanthal and 24 gauge nichrome. It vapes incredible IMO. In a way I think some of these builds are a novelty but at the same time there are a few that vape fantastically, especially if your soul desire is to chuck clouds. With the right .1 ohm build in a Mutation X you can put out five foot clouds.
When I first got in to RDA's and building coils over a year ago I order 500 feet of wire and told myself I was going to be one of those "coil making guys" and that I was going to make coils every day, blah blah blah etc. Fast forward, after about the first week of making tons of coils and really experiencing not a terrible amount of difference from very complicated time consuming builds I said screw it, now that I've found some builds that I like I will let the coils sit in my atomizer for 2-3+ months before I make a new one.
They can be better or not. I like to use tiger wire a lot. I do notice a difference in the flavor. That's about the only one I've noticed a big difference on but I don't do things like staple coils. Mostly just play with twisting and parallels.
Yes and no. It's all about finding & fine tuning your sweet spot. I found the build I like, just trying to find the right wire to do it with. Or maybe your sweet spot is the quick & simple microcoil. That's for you to decide, but don't be afraid to experiment ^_^
I'll toss in my two cents... but I want change back, m-kay?
From a technical perspective, rather than a "yeah, this seems about right" perspective... if you match all the variables...
wire gauge
net resistance
parallel coil count (if more than 1 coil)
coil surface area to wick exposure
wick capillary capabilities
wick density and fit-in-coil
juice PG/VG percentage appropriate for RBA type, air flow and wick material...
to the wattage applied... either by Ohm's law calculation for a mech, or just clicking the appropriate button on your high-watt regulated APV...
to obtain the desired heat flux, heat capacity and % leg power loss...
then you have the best you can do, and the physical shape of the coils between terminals, IMO, has minimal relevance.
Or... you can bag all that and just run the "yeah, this seems about right" build.
Easy huh? ;-)
From a technical perspective, rather than a "yeah, this seems about right" perspective... if you match all the variables...
wire gauge
net resistance
parallel coil count (if more than 1 coil)
coil surface area to wick exposure
wick capillary capabilities
wick density and fit-in-coil
juice PG/VG percentage appropriate for RBA type, air flow and wick material...
to the wattage applied... either by Ohm's law calculation for a mech, or just clicking the appropriate button on your high-watt regulated APV...
to obtain the desired heat flux, heat capacity and % leg power loss...
then you have the best you can do, and the physical shape of the coils between terminals, IMO, has minimal relevance.
Or... you can bag all that and just run the "yeah, this seems about right" build.
Easy huh? ;-)
you have your point but the "coil surface area to wick exposure " on a complicated build (mundy's for example) is much more different than a simple contact coil, it has parts of the coil touching the wick and some a bit off, some juice will be vaporized by contact with the coil and some will be vaporized by induction when there is a gap between the coil and the wick giving it a richness on notes not seen on an uniform build. I am a simple micro coil type of guy but I do think it makes a difference (not necessarily better or worst) on the intricacy of the build
In short, not really. Boredom is the mother of creation; internet fame is best source for motivation, and lots of flame.
It's all about resistance desired (total amount of metal in a coil) and its rough geometry. Thicker wire gauge or combining thin ones into a joint is the same thing. Geometry is just to concentrate and retain heat ("micro" coil) or to spread it out however desired (regular with spaces between each loop), purely based on your taste.
It's all about resistance desired (total amount of metal in a coil) and its rough geometry. Thicker wire gauge or combining thin ones into a joint is the same thing. Geometry is just to concentrate and retain heat ("micro" coil) or to spread it out however desired (regular with spaces between each loop), purely based on your taste.
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