Considering getting a box mod

[im so zen]

Hey guys,

I've been liking the look of box mods recently, and have been considering getting one. However, I don't know the advantages/disadvantages compared to mech mods, as well as the differences between unregulated, regulated, dna, etc.

So a few questions:

I know dna box mods have the dna chip, so is that really the only difference between those and say a VV/VW box mod? What I mean is they're still just VV/VW, just with a different interface, correct?

Also, regarding regulated vs. unregulated, regulated mods would be better used for higher ohm builds, right? Then the variable wattage or voltage can be used to speed up the time they take to heat up, which would be a super long time on a regular mech mod. Is that correct?

Finally, what about battery life? I'm planning to get a dual 18650 mod, so is the battery life roughly twice that of a single 18650, drawing the same wattage?

Thanks for all the help, and sorry if my wording doesn't make any sense haha. Any suggestions for box mods you guys love are welcome as well!

 

[v1k1ng1001]

Well first off, there's different chips. Evolv make the DNA 30 and DNA 40 (temp control) and are of course well regarded and very expensive. Yihi chips are also well-regarded and power some of the higher watt box mods you see from IPV and Sigelei. Rarer are the raptor chips but I don't know a ton about them. Then there are a slew of other chips that clone the DNA or Yihi chips as well as proprietary hardware in some of the cheaper, lower watt devices. I frame it this way because, if you're in the market for a box mod these days, I'd say look for one with a Yihi chip for best value/performance on a higher-watt device or a DNA chip if you can afford it. It's not just the interface that's different but the accuracy and efficiency of the chip as well as the quality of output. For example, I have a cloupor clone of the Hana which features a clone of the DNA 30 chip--it works but it is not the most accurate chip and does not regulate well when the battery drops below 30%. I would have been better off waiting and buyng an IPV mini with the yihi chip for the same price.

Yeah, one of the advantages of a regulated device is that you can power higher resistance builds (although a quality chip can also accomodate lower resistance builds) instead of chasing watts on a mech by building lower resistances. My daily carry usually involves a microcoil on a kayfun at around 1.7 ohms set at betwee 20 and 30 watts. 1.7 ohms is pretty lame on a mech, but with a regulated device you can throw more power at it, tweaking the settings until you find your sweet spot.

If you go with a dual 18650, then yes your battery capacity obviously doubles. If you're rocking higher wattages, however, you're running through that capacity faster--so it's a give and take kind of thing. One thing to keep in mind that is that if you go with a dual battery box, you will have to charge your batteries in a charger, just like with a mech, because dual batteries cannot be charged within a device. A device with a single battery usually features an onboard charger powerd by USB. Much of this comes down to how you use the device throughout the day. Between the Sigelei 100w box (dual batt) and the Sigelei 50w box (single batt), I prefer the 50w. Why? I don't need more than 50w to power my daily carry (kayfun + microcoil) and a single 18650 gets me through the day--at work I'm always near a usb port in case I run short. On the other hand, if my daily carry included more exotic RDA builds requirding more power or if I didn't have the option to recharge throughout the day, then I'd prefer the 100w with increased power and capacity.

There are a lot of great regulated devices out there right now. Check out the IPV boxes, the Sigeleis are an amazing value obviously, Vaporshark rDNA is cool--but don't forget about their not-so-boxy offspring like the yihi sx mini.

 

[jb783]

I'm in the same boat. I like the looks of these "mech" box mods a lot, especially that one with that huge green button. So cool.

What is the deal with the mech box mods out now? What are the best ones, what technologies? I heard you want one with a mosfit switch?

Any links to the best single and dual battery ones? How about the ones that have a little digital readout on the inside you can see voltage with?

 

[v1k1ng1001]

No idea about mech boxes as they don't interest me. In fact, I'm kinda scared of unregulated mechs with more than one battery. Maybe post in the mech subforum?

 

[Daniel Smith1234311356]

Well first off, there's different chips. Evolv make the DNA 30 and DNA 40 (temp control) and are of course well regarded and very expensive. Yihi chips are also well-regarded and power some of the higher watt box mods you see from IPV and Sigelei. Rarer are the raptor chips but I don't know a ton about them. Then there are a slew of other chips that clone the DNA or Yihi chips as well as proprietary hardware in some of the cheaper, lower watt devices. I frame it this way because, if you're in the market for a box mod these days, I'd say look for one with a Yihi chip for best value/performance on a higher-watt device or a DNA chip if you can afford it. It's not just the interface that's different but the accuracy and efficiency of the chip as well as the quality of output. For example, I have a cloupor clone of the Hana which features a clone of the DNA 30 chip--it works but it is not the most accurate chip and does not regulate well when the battery drops below 30%. I would have been better off waiting and buyng an IPV mini with the yihi chip for the same price.

Yeah, one of the advantages of a regulated device is that you can power higher resistance builds (although a quality chip can also accomodate lower resistance builds) instead of chasing watts on a mech by building lower resistances. My daily carry usually involves a microcoil on a kayfun at around 1.7 ohms set at betwee 20 and 30 watts. 1.7 ohms is pretty lame on a mech, but with a regulated device you can throw more power at it, tweaking the settings until you find your sweet spot.

If you go with a dual 18650, then yes your battery capacity obviously doubles. If you're rocking higher wattages, however, you're running through that capacity faster--so it's a give and take kind of thing. One thing to keep in mind that is that if you go with a dual battery box, you will have to charge your batteries in a charger, just like with a mech, because dual batteries cannot be charged within a device. A device with a single battery usually features an onboard charger powerd by USB. Much of this comes down to how you use the device throughout the day. Between the Sigelei 100w box (dual batt) and the Sigelei 50w box (single batt), I prefer the 50w. Why? I don't need more than 50w to power my daily carry (kayfun + microcoil) and a single 18650 gets me through the day--at work I'm always near a usb port in case I run short. On the other hand, if my daily carry included more exotic RDA builds requirding more power or if I didn't have the option to recharge throughout the day, then I'd prefer the 100w with increased power and capacity.

There are a lot of great regulated devices out there right now. Check out the IPV boxes, the Sigeleis are an amazing value obviously, Vaporshark rDNA is cool--but don't forget about their not-so-boxy offspring like the yihi sx mini.

Dual batteries can be charged internally. Several mods these days have charging capabilities built in. Example, I just got A SMY god 180s. It runs 3 18650s in series even and has a built in charger. Granted the way the charging board works when charging in series, expecially with three batteries, takes forever. I have multiply paired sets so I just swap them out generally but it is an option. Another benefit of this 3 battery beast is i usually only run at 60 to 100 watts (capable of 220) and i get 2 or more days of battery life with 2500mah batteries. And many dual setups even offer pass through charging so you can use it while it's charging.

 

[Daniel Smith1234311356]

No idea about mech boxes as they don't interest me. In fact, I'm kinda scared of unregulated mechs with more than one battery. Maybe post in the mech subforum?

If they are built right they are actually safer than single battery mechs. I've been building them for a while now and am very confident in their safety. When you run in parallel your amperage doubles, example I run around .09oomhs, that's about 46 amps. My batteries are 32 amp nominal 64 amp max each, so therefore I have 64 amp nominal and 128 amp max so it's well within the safe zone. And when you run in series, you double your voltage which cuts your amp draw in half. Both methods have there own safety, you just need experience and a few formulas and you're good to go. And a reliable ohm meter of course.

 

[Tagi]

I run regular tube mechs, OKR 20amp, Yihi, and a DNA 40. I have also had a DNA 30 but the build limits did not work for me. Once you researched rebuilding a IPV3 is a good place to start. It will work for .1 build with out an upgrade and all the way down to .08 with the 165watt update. It will give you enough experimentation room to find what you like and then you can move to more build ohm specific chips. I actually find best flavor with a .2 mech or 1 ohm regulated. I am in a odd position. I do both lung hits and mouth to lung depending on the juice. .2 ohm mechs for the lung hits and the 1.00ohm regulated for the mouth to lungs.

Edit this is all dripping, your results may vary

 

[milescadre]

Hey guys,

I've been liking the look of box mods recently, and have been considering getting one. However, I don't know the advantages/disadvantages compared to mech mods, as well as the differences between unregulated, regulated, DNA, etc.

So a few questions:

I know DNA box mods have the DNA chip, so is that really the only difference between those and say a VV/VW box mod? What I mean is they're still just VV/VW, just with a different interface, correct?

Also, regarding regulated vs. unregulated, regulated mods would be better used for higher ohm builds, right? Then the variable wattage or voltage can be used to speed up the time they take to heat up, which would be a super long time on a regular mech mod. Is that correct?

Finally, what about battery life? I'm planning to get a dual 18650 mod, so is the battery life roughly twice that of a single 18650, drawing the same wattage?

Thanks for all the help, and sorry if my wording doesn't make any sense haha. Any suggestions for box mods you guys love are welcome as well!

Until recently, yes. DNA boards were VW. DNA 40 (and soon to come DNA 25) introduce Temperature Control, which when using Nickel Wire, you can set a temperature and not exceed it. this, in theory, prevents dry/burnt hits.

As far as which is better, it depends on what you want to build. I find my DNA 40 has a bit of ramp up time, but my ipv2 hit fast and hard. Regulated mods can be used with efficiency at higher ohms, but some boards (like the DNA 40) have a 2 ohm limit (I think, iirc). As far as "heat up time" that again goes back to your build.

Battery lif on a PARALLEL Dual 18650 is in theory doubled since you double your Mah. This also, in theory, efectively doubles your amp limit. However, there are special practices involved with dual batteries.

Ultimately, it boils down to what are you building/using the device for, and what do you want to do with it. Me, I use tanks. I dont drip because I feel that for me it is a hassle. So I rarely exceed 30w, and I find the DNA 40 works wonders for everything I want to do. But, If you want to go cloud chasing, getting a 100w+ box may be in order.

I would recommend a regulated mod either way to simplify charging, and to give you a little added protection. I thought the sigelis had a voltage dump feature anyways so it behaves like a mech =T

 

[Serendipity_Stables]

I started with a provari and found it limiting with lower builds. I then got a punk slug mechanical and I was in heaven. No more falling over mods with juice dripping etc. It's an awesome box mechanical. I love t5, orchids and the big dripper now and I went out and spend 70.00 and bought a smoke m65w and it's amazing. Thankfully, it has a usb charger as there are 4 screws on the bottom of it to change batteries and it lasts all day at 20w for me with a coil at .5. It charges super fast and it's small enough to throw in your pocket. If you don't have hundreds of dollars to spend on a higher end one, the smok is a good deal for the price.

 

[Frenchfry1942]

The MVP 3.0 has DC power like the Provari, 30w VV/VW, Goes down to .4 ohms, battery of 3800mah, well reviewed. DC power is much more exact to the setting you put it at. AND, it doesn't cost like the high-end mods.

 

[HighPlains]

The MVP 3.0 has DC power like the Provari, 30w VV/VW, Goes down to .4 ohms, battery of 3800mah, well reviewed. DC power is much more exact to the setting you put it at. AND, it doesn't cost like the high-end mods.

The MVP 2.0 was one of the first mods I bought back in the day and it was great, but the 3.0 is late to the game and doesn't offer as much bang for the buck, IMO. Compare it to the Eleaf istick 50w. It has DC power, costs less, goes down to .2 ohms, battery of 4400mah, very well reviewed, and has 50W/10V if you need it. For me, the size and battery life are what made me pull the trigger. The MVP is too boxy for my liking.

 

[pounder00]

I'll second what HighPlains said. The MVP 3.0 is behind the pack, With all the sub ohm tanks out there now(Arctic, Atlantis, Kanger, etc.) I wonder if the MVP reads a .5 ohm coil at .39, will it fire? May not be a problem but IDK. The Istick fires to .2 and I'm on my 3rd day without charging running an Arctic .5 coil. It feels GREAT in the hand compared to MVP.

As far as unregulated boxes, there are a lot to choose from. I know in my area, there are tons of people building them. Do your research on them, and if you worry about the safety, make sure and get one with a MOSFET, it gives extra protection.

 

[juggler86]

I started with a provari and found it limiting with lower builds. I then got a punk slug mechanical and I was in heaven. No more falling over mods with juice dripping etc. It's an awesome box mechanical. I love t5, orchids and the big dripper now and I went out and spend 70.00 and bought a smoke m65w and it's amazing. Thankfully, it has a usb charger as there are 4 screws on the bottom of it to change batteries and it lasts all day at 20w for me with a coil at .5. It charges super fast and it's small enough to throw in your pocket. If you don't have hundreds of dollars to spend on a higher end one, the smok is a good deal for the price.

What made you go with the Smok65 over something like a Sig50 or an IPV Mini2. Price is all in the same range and reviews tend not to be positive on Smok devices. How do you like the build quality because thats 1 thing i haveny heard anything negative about. Just wondering cuz im always in the market for affordable boxes and just cant find 1 that holds up to my mechs(Glithchy)

On topic I have noth reg. and unreg boxes. The pro for reg. boxes is battery life atleast to me. On my Cigreen box as soon as I can tell my drags are getting weaker I like to switch batts. Sometimes this is a PITA with a dual batt device, means lots of batteries on hand and from what ive heard its not good to constantly charge batts that are still 3/4 full.

In general id say it all depends what topper youre using. On my Cigreen I use a Plume Veil/magma or a derringer at .4 and lower generally . On my IPV Mini2 I use a Big Dripper dual at 1.4ohms most of the time.

 

[Serendipity_Stables]

What made you go with the Smok65 over something like a Sig50 or an IPV Mini2. Price is all in the same range and reviews tend not to be positive on Smok devices. How do you like the build quality because thats 1 thing i haveny heard anything negative about. Just wondering cuz im always in the market for affordable boxes and just cant find 1 that holds up to my mechs(Glithchy)

On topic I have noth reg. and unreg boxes. The pro for reg. boxes is battery life atleast to me. On my Cigreen box as soon as I can tell my drags are getting weaker I like to switch batts. Sometimes this is a PITA with a dual batt device, means lots of batteries on hand and from what ive heard its not good to constantly charge batts that are still 3/4 full.

In general id say it all depends what topper youre using. On my Cigreen I use a Plume Veil/magma or a derringer at .4 and lower generally . On my IPV Mini2 I use a Big Dripper dual at 1.4ohms most of the time.

I too love the Big Dripper. I have lots of mods both reg and unregulated as well. To each their own I suppose but I have nothing bad to say about the Smok M65. It's well built and I throw it into my pocket with the Big Dripper on it and it lasts all day. I rarely have to change the batteries as I just use the usb to charge it and it's a fast charge at that.

I thought the finish would wear off quickly or get scratched and it's negative for both of those. It really stands up to my 'horse' way of life. I have dropped it at least a dozen times and it has not failed me once and I've had it for awhile now.