Coppervape BF Mod
- Thread starter Layzee Vaper
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
VTC4 are the batteries that I am currently using. I have some LG cells ordered to try and see if there is any difference.
Ok, bit of a recap.
My mod is one of the V1 brass versions
The batteries I use are either Sony VCT4 or LG HG2
The Atty is an Origen Little 16 clone.
I have an O ring under the positive 510 pin so the atty sits about 1.5mm off the deck.
I have checked the resistance between the negative part of the upper body and the screw that comes into contact with the positive battery terminal and I get exactly what I would expect, the resistance of the coil.
The screw connection between the bottle cap and 510 positive pin is pinched up tight.
I have replaced the button, screw, positive 510 pin and the copper leaf spring, all supplied FOC from CV.
All the connection points have been cleaned up, so that's the screw, the negative battery screw part and its threading into the body of the mod. Both the upper and lower parts have had the varnish removed and are clean. I have also used some nolax where appropriate.
The issue is that the mod failed to fire properly, sometimes it partially fires, sometimes not at all. It is an intermittent problem, sometimes it would fail with in a few min's sometimes it would work for several hours, but I have never managed to get through a fully charged battery without if failing at some point. Removing the top part of the mod and replacing it would sometimes make it fire again, at least for a while.
I have come to the conclusion that the issue must be related to the negative part of the circuit, especially as this is broken and remade each time you take the top of the mod off to refill the juice bottle.
To try and resolve this I have now removed the magnets drilled out the holes in the upper and lower part of the mod and made up a couple of interference fit, push in connections out of some rolled up 0.005 brass shim.
So far my problem has not resurfaced, the mod has fired every time. However the top of the mod is much more difficult to separate.
Having done this I suspect that for most people experiencing the same problem as me returning the mod for a replacement or refund would be much easier. I did not as it was quicker, easier and cheaper for me to resolve the issue myself.
I don't want my poor experience with the mod to put off people picking one up, especially as my example is one of the early ones. The vast majority of people have had no problems at all and at the price they are, it is a very decent squonker.
@herb I would hope that we would be able to keep things friendly, the thread needs to be kept open in order to share problems and possible solutions to those problems. I am not about to start trading personal insults with you or anyone else on ECF.
My mod is one of the V1 brass versions
The batteries I use are either Sony VCT4 or LG HG2
The Atty is an Origen Little 16 clone.
I have an O ring under the positive 510 pin so the atty sits about 1.5mm off the deck.
I have checked the resistance between the negative part of the upper body and the screw that comes into contact with the positive battery terminal and I get exactly what I would expect, the resistance of the coil.
The screw connection between the bottle cap and 510 positive pin is pinched up tight.
I have replaced the button, screw, positive 510 pin and the copper leaf spring, all supplied FOC from CV.
All the connection points have been cleaned up, so that's the screw, the negative battery screw part and its threading into the body of the mod. Both the upper and lower parts have had the varnish removed and are clean. I have also used some nolax where appropriate.
The issue is that the mod failed to fire properly, sometimes it partially fires, sometimes not at all. It is an intermittent problem, sometimes it would fail with in a few min's sometimes it would work for several hours, but I have never managed to get through a fully charged battery without if failing at some point. Removing the top part of the mod and replacing it would sometimes make it fire again, at least for a while.
I have come to the conclusion that the issue must be related to the negative part of the circuit, especially as this is broken and remade each time you take the top of the mod off to refill the juice bottle.
To try and resolve this I have now removed the magnets drilled out the holes in the upper and lower part of the mod and made up a couple of interference fit, push in connections out of some rolled up 0.005 brass shim.
So far my problem has not resurfaced, the mod has fired every time. However the top of the mod is much more difficult to separate.
Having done this I suspect that for most people experiencing the same problem as me returning the mod for a replacement or refund would be much easier. I did not as it was quicker, easier and cheaper for me to resolve the issue myself.
I don't want my poor experience with the mod to put off people picking one up, especially as my example is one of the early ones. The vast majority of people have had no problems at all and at the price they are, it is a very decent squonker.
@herb I would hope that we would be able to keep things friendly, the thread needs to be kept open in order to share problems and possible solutions to those problems. I am not about to start trading personal insults with you or anyone else on ECF.
Had mine for a day now.
The device
The fit and finish is excellent as is the general design, I really like how the whole top section comes off. I got the SS model, it’s heavy enough to feel substantial but not so weighty as to be a awkward. The fire button is smooth and (so far) reliable, though I would have preferred a SS one for longevity and matchy match with the body. The battery cover has very sharp edges but nothing a bit of sanding won’t fix. I want to strip it to try to ascertain if there is any clear coat in any of the contact points.
I tested the voltage drop at 0.75v @ 0.25 ohms which is pretty darn good, but if I’m honest not quite as low as I was hoping. To be fair I am comparing it to my Stingray X which drops 0.5 v at this load and is my gold standard for VD. I’ve not used another mechanical that can match it.
The RDA
The positive post sheared off while I was trying to put a build in it, which is a pain and doesn't speak well for it's overall quality.
So without trying it ~ I like the look of dual airflow, options are always good. I really like the cross-head post screws, I detest hex grubs. The regular drip tip mine came with has no hole in it, it’s solid, some sort of molding screw-up I'd imagine, no problem as I have lots of spares. I don't like that the chuff cap removes the ability to close the side air holes. I generally prefer reduced chamber 22mm RDAs with mechanicals, so once FT replaces I will see how it pans out.
I put a BF Tsunami 24 with dual fused 26/36 Claptons on it and so far it hits like a champ. What a really want on there is a Derringer but I don’t have a BF capable one yet. I’ve got a standard V3 on order which I intend to mod.
I haven't quite got the hang of squonking yet, I'm tending to either over do it or under do it. But practice makes perfect.
Also the bottom of the squonk pin on the Tsunami has a slot the full width to allow you to screw it in. I'm concerned this will allow a conduit for juice to escape. I'm guessing the juice would end up back in the bottle, but wouldn't that reduce pressure in the tube. The CV RDA has a slot for a screw driver, but not the full width.
The device
The fit and finish is excellent as is the general design, I really like how the whole top section comes off. I got the SS model, it’s heavy enough to feel substantial but not so weighty as to be a awkward. The fire button is smooth and (so far) reliable, though I would have preferred a SS one for longevity and matchy match with the body. The battery cover has very sharp edges but nothing a bit of sanding won’t fix. I want to strip it to try to ascertain if there is any clear coat in any of the contact points.
I tested the voltage drop at 0.75v @ 0.25 ohms which is pretty darn good, but if I’m honest not quite as low as I was hoping. To be fair I am comparing it to my Stingray X which drops 0.5 v at this load and is my gold standard for VD. I’ve not used another mechanical that can match it.
The RDA
The positive post sheared off while I was trying to put a build in it, which is a pain and doesn't speak well for it's overall quality.
So without trying it ~ I like the look of dual airflow, options are always good. I really like the cross-head post screws, I detest hex grubs. The regular drip tip mine came with has no hole in it, it’s solid, some sort of molding screw-up I'd imagine, no problem as I have lots of spares. I don't like that the chuff cap removes the ability to close the side air holes. I generally prefer reduced chamber 22mm RDAs with mechanicals, so once FT replaces I will see how it pans out.
I put a BF Tsunami 24 with dual fused 26/36 Claptons on it and so far it hits like a champ. What a really want on there is a Derringer but I don’t have a BF capable one yet. I’ve got a standard V3 on order which I intend to mod.
I haven't quite got the hang of squonking yet, I'm tending to either over do it or under do it. But practice makes perfect.
Also the bottom of the squonk pin on the Tsunami has a slot the full width to allow you to screw it in. I'm concerned this will allow a conduit for juice to escape. I'm guessing the juice would end up back in the bottle, but wouldn't that reduce pressure in the tube. The CV RDA has a slot for a screw driver, but not the full width.
@sonicbomb You could try squonking with the cap off your atty until you get a feel for it. You need to squeeze gently and hold it for a second or two then release. With the cap off you should see the juice come up into the base of the atty as you squeeze, and then the excess get sucked back into the bottle when you release. I tend to use minimal wick material and squonk often as it keeps the flavour fresh. Becomes second nature after a while.
Sounds like you've traced the problem to the cap and base not having good fit.
Makes sense, if each face is not machined to mate perfectly flat, pushing the button may cause the cap to rock slightly, causing a break in the circuit.
Surprised you were able to remove the magnets. I know the magnets on the CC mod are a very tight fit.
In a Very Short Time, Squonking will become 2nd Nature. And you will be able to tell How Much you just Squonked by the Slurping sound that it makes when you stop squeezing the Bottle. Or if there is No Slurping Sound at all.
How far the BF Pin sticks up into the RBA Deck effects the amount of Drainage you get. For the RBA's I use, I like to have the BF Pin about Flush with the RBA Deck. So I have Filed down most of the BF Pins that I have. This gives more Drainage.
But some like the BF Pin to be Higher so that the RBA is left with more e-Liquid per Squonk.
I had some fun, in the end I cut them off flush with a hacksaw then drilled them out with the drill press at work.
I suspect there was an issue with the machining tolerance’s on my particular mod. Most seem to be OK, and work well enough. As usual I got a duffer.
Not to be an alarmist but your hack does carry a slight risk. One of the nice things about this device is that you can easily remove the top cap should the battery start to vent ... you've probably already considered this but I thought it best to mention regardless.
I'm just glad to hear you got it going good and are happy with it, that's all that matters to me.
That's a good point, and you are right it is a hack, one that i would have preferred not to have to do. I am going to attack the top part with a file on Monday to give me more grip so I can remove it more easily. I came to the conclusion that in the short term it's probably no worse than most of the tube mech's. I will use it over the weekend and make sure that my hack is effective, then try and improve the grip on the top part. My 1.7 ohm builds barely tickle the VCT4 so venting is pretty unlikely.
Just Thinking Out Loud...
But I Wonder if a Battery started to Vent in a CV how many people would Attempt to Remove the Top? Verses put the Mod Down or even Toss It away from themselves?
I think I might be in that 2nd Camp.
But I Wonder if a Battery started to Vent in a CV how many people would Attempt to Remove the Top? Verses put the Mod Down or even Toss It away from themselves?
I think I might be in that 2nd Camp.
Luckily I have never had a battery vent on me, but when the chunk of metal in your hand almost immediately heats to hundreds of degrees, I'm thinking dropping it like a hot potato would be my likely reaction!
There is no insulting , i said i just don't buy your story thats all , everyone else does so you are in good shape .
Have a good day
If your battery did vent violently in a CV pulling off the top would be a bad idea. The battery chamber is not air tight (unless modified to be so) so it's not going to go bang. But it would allow the the flames and other ejected material to escape freely hitting your hand face or body.
Drop it like it's hot baby.
Anyway unless you mess up in a big way, a battery isn't going to go versuvius on you.
Drop it like it's hot baby.
Anyway unless you mess up in a big way, a battery isn't going to go versuvius on you.
Btw, I didn't mean that in a derogatory manner. Hack is commonly used today when referring to lots of things including improvements, shortcuts and value added process changes among others.
In any event, my poor choice of words aside, I hope you didn't feel like I was denigrating your efforts as that was most definitely not my intent.
Timing of the issue would certainly be a large factor in any reaction but yeah, if I was able to do so, I'd try separating the top ... in the same motion I was using to drop it. Unless you are outside already, it's probably worth trying to prevent it going full nuclear.
- Status
Similar threads
