Send it back if it is not a "good one" , FT has a 45 day money back guarantee . I would never accept something that i wasn't satisfied with.
Coppervape BF Mod
- Thread starter Layzee Vaper
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Send it back if it is not a "good one" , FT has a 45 day money back guarantee . I would never accept something that i wasn't satisfied with.
If there are noticeable gap's where the two sections meet it's possible , i would remove all the upper sections hardware and examine then re assemble .
Aluminium resists corrosion by forming a layer of surface oxide in a process called passivation, without this aluminium would continue to oxidize until nothing was left. This layer of oxide is a very poor conductor, this leads to an over all reduction in the electrical conductivity of the metal. I'm guessing here, but it's ranking in the listing I posted above must be exclusive of this effect.
Last edited:
Gonna have to pick up some of that 600 sandpaper and try that. Was wondering if something like Arctic Silver (cpu thermal paste) would help on the contacts?? I haven't had problems with it not firing. Just not hitting like a beast as many have mentioned here. Have broken it down and wiped everything with rubbing alcohol as well as playing around with the 510 connections/510 mod pin but no joy yet.
I wouldn't put cpu thermal paste on there. Thermal conductivity and electrical conductivity are totally different critters, and thermal paste is a bit nasty to remove. You can use Noalox or better yet, deoxit gold. Noalox is abot $7.00 for a 4oz bottle, which is enough for years. I'm using deoxit gold 100% in the 2ml tube. Noalox is a bit messy if you over apply it. The deoxit seems a bit pricey but you only need a tiny drop or two. The most popular applicator for the noalox is a wooden toothpick. Either one will work. I think the sandpaper is unnecessary, just use dish soap and a nylon scrub pad.
I just took both of mine completely apart ( a 10 second job) and looked over everything again , i just cannot see any way the mod can not function correctly . It's just way too simple .
If it's not hitting like a beast it's got to be something with the battery choice, how much has battery drained , age and usage of battery etc.... or the particular build you are using on the mod .
With a relatively new high power battery with proper amp ratings this thing hits like a freight train but put in a battery thats been used for quite some time and i also thought i was getting weak hits.
If it's not hitting like a beast it's got to be something with the battery choice, how much has battery drained , age and usage of battery etc.... or the particular build you are using on the mod .
With a relatively new high power battery with proper amp ratings this thing hits like a freight train but put in a battery thats been used for quite some time and i also thought i was getting weak hits.
Wow, i just read up on the Deoxit stuff and that sounds like a must have for me , too bad it's not in larger stores like Home Depot and Lowes .
The only use I've found for Deoxit or it's ilk is to mitigate micro-arcing in threads. Other than that it just gunks stuff up. There is no substitute for a spotlessly clean mechanical device when it comes to low voltage drop (in my humble opinion).
I have been reading a ton of threads from all over the net from flashlight forums to marine forums and that Deoxit according to everything i have read is a dang miracle worker, nothing comes close to it's effectiveness .
It's superior to every other product by far people say , i have used a lot of contact type cleaners in the past and so have the people in the reviews apparently but what they say is there is no product that can compare to this stuff .
I agree with what you said about run of the mill contact cleaners as i have not been thrilled with the results and it does gunk up.
Used to be Deoxit was held in high regards with the HiFi community as well, no idea if it still is or not.
"reading" "People say" "what they say"
Nothing beats clean oxide free metal on metal,that's what I'm saying.
The wait begins for me, I have both Kangers and they are o.k. to jump into Sqonking, I think I like the little one even better that the regulated. I just build a little lower than recommended. I did not like either atty they came with. I do have a few other BF atties, My tobecco velocitys, the Tsunami 24, some Steam craves I forgot about, and ordered the Odis, Narda, Hadaly, and pieced together the parts for the Hobo V3.1. also a few of the bf 510's to see what I can use them for and a few of the solid 510's to practice my fabrication skills. That should give me a Idea of what I want to sit on top of the CV. BTW what size can fit in these without overhang?
25mm looks good possibly 26mm , anything more will over hang ,
Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk
Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk
Actually it is , i was reading people raving about it for audio equipment as well . Definitely going to pick some up , i got lots of things that do not work well anymore & people swear this is the only stuff that works .
Last edited:
And yet some people are reporting problems, not just here on ecf but also on other forums.
I have no issues at all with my battery, build or atty they perform as they should on other mods. I replaced the entire button, firing pin and spring assembly and still it does not hit every time. When it works it has better voltage drop than my other mods, but it just cannot get through a full day without failing to fire and me having to mess with it to get it to work again.
I've been using mech's for a couple of years, so not new to this, I have stripped and cleaned it many times, tried deoxit, adding shims in appropriate places etc. I just can't get it to hit every time. It's got to be down to the engineering tolerances.
The problem here is that the layer of aluminum oxide forms within minutes after contact with the oxygen in the air. Aluminum oxide is an insulator. This is less of a problem with the battery connection because screwing it in probably cleans enough oxide off to make a good connection. Where the top and bottom come together is a completely different story. You clean it works great. Then it begins to oxidize. Now it doesn't work so great. Rapping it or wiggling the top helps for a while. Putting deoxit or noalox on the surfaces after cleaning prevents the oxide formation and ensures a good connection, and lasts for weeks.
More than you'll ever want to know about oxidation of aluminum:
GDA Home - Alu Encyclopaedia
I have some 12ga copper wire and a tap and die set to thread the wire so it can be screwed into the aluminum body. I'm betting that if I put a piece of copper into the top and bottom and cut them off flush so there is a copper to copper contact it will solve the problem completely.
So if im understanding you correctly you are going to replace the 2 pins that hold the top and bottom of the box together with threaded copper studs made from 12awg?
No, no, no! There is enough material to the sides of the magnetic pins to drill a hole the thickness of 12ga wire. Screw the wire in, cut it off flush. One on top, on on the bottom so they contact when put together. You can thread 12ga wire with a 2-56 die. Alas, I do not have the drill and tap for the body. I will have to order one from a hobby shop, the local hardware doesn't carry any that small.
Simple test to see if the problem is the negative or positive on a non-firing mod: Take a piece of wire and stick it through the vent holes of the battery connector so that it touches the bottom of the battery. Touch it to the top of the mod and fire. If it works now, don't mess with the positive side.
One thing I noticed on my brass CV is that the battery cavity is not perfectly centered ... apparently it was bored slightly offset. It wasn't enough to keep it from working but I do have to make sure the top is aligned properly as there is a little play there.
- Status
Similar threads
