Cupti By Kangertech

[Tpat591]

CLRBA Kanger CL RBA Deck for Cupti, Evod Pro and CLTank - CLRBA Kangertech

Looks like a Florida vape supply is carrying the CLRBA for $10.99

 

[olds97_lss]

Think I'm glad I held off on getting this though. Seems it has less air flow than the NEBOX per the reviews and comments. Lately I've been using a GeekVape Avocado 24 RTA when at home and the NEBOX at work and now the NEBOX seems a bit constrictive to me. LOL! I remember the first time I took a pull off the NEBOX and was blown away. I had been using a kanger T3S tank for a long time until then.

 

[olds97_lss]

Tried again to clear resistance a few times & finally got it to read 1.5ohm so I could enter NiCr TC Mode (kept reading resistance too low prior). I will say that the airflow through the NiCr coil is much more open than the SS 0.5ohm CLOCC. Enjoying the airflow on this coil so much better and it does seem to drop applied wattage in TC mode to 22w-26w when vaping and I haven't had a dry hit in TC mode yet (but I did flood the coil after all the ins & outs resetting resistance to proper ohms & it took a half dozen or more hits to vape off the flooding-but that is my bad because I know better).

I'm curious if you tried to fire it with the coil out, then fire when you put the coil back in. I know my NEBOX won't notice an ohm change on my coil unless I take the coil out, fire it, then it says 99.99ohm. Then I wait for it to shut off, put the coil in, then I fire and it gives me the dialog for new/old coil and if I choose new, it senses and displays the new ohm rating.

This is with the RBA deck in the NEBOX. I'm assuming it would be the same with the prebuilt coils, but I've never used those in it.

Just thought maybe that would help you avoid putting it in and taking it out repeatedly.

 

[diehli]

My friend and I both got Cuptis yesterday. She is having horrible leaking issues with either the 1.5 or 1.0 coils. I'm guessing a faulty chimney assembly on hers. I also had some flooding but was able to rectify it by tightening the crap out of things & blowing hard into the drip tip with the airflow closed and immediately opening it back up & taking some deep draws.

On mine, the main issue is that the TC is suspect. Everything I use is SS coils in TC mode (primarily Smok TFV4 Micros with the SS .25 coils and Pico mods set to 50W max in SS TC mode). My Cupti won't go above 460 irrespective of being set anywhere above that. Additionally, it does not supply above high 20-something watts when getting up to temp, despite taking a good 1.5-2 seconds to get to 460-ish; ramp up is ridiculously slow.

I think I have an early version of the mod since changing the wattage setting goes at a constant rate and takes forever to scroll. I tried it at 50W (getting there from 75W felt like it took a minute, literally) in wattage mode and it heated up quickly and hit pretty hard, so I know the coil can handle it.

Hoping that Breazy will help me get a new unit through Kanger if I can't get the TC working properly.

My first box mod was a Kanger & I was not impressed with the fit & finish. I'm about at the stage where I'm going to stay away from Kanger altogether.

 

[olds97_lss]

My first box mod was a Kanger & I was not impressed with the fit & finish. I'm about at the stage where I'm going to stay away from Kanger altogether.

My NEBOX is fine. Well built, fit/finish is nice. But my Kanger KBox mini is a little lack luster. Battery door doesn't fit well, the 510 thread wobbles around, charge port is a bit off... It was cheap and I was buying just to use it to burn/clean coils using a base from my subbox mini tank for my NEBOX RBA deck. My two subtanks fit/finish is fine as well.

My knock off eleaf 100W fit/finish wasn't that great either. Put the batteries in it and it automatically went to 100W as the + button was being held down due to bad fit/finish and assembly. I'm guessing it was a clone as I bought it on ebay pretty cheap. Was able to take it apart and grind a few things down to get it to work. Has been fine for over a year.

With that, I just figured it was how things were...

 

[Tpat591]

 

[Tpat591]

 

[Tpat591]

 

[Tpat591]

My friend and I both got Cuptis yesterday. She is having horrible leaking issues with either the 1.5 or 1.0 coils. I'm guessing a faulty chimney assembly on hers. I also had some flooding but was able to rectify it by tightening the crap out of things & blowing hard into the drip tip with the airflow closed and immediately opening it back up & taking some deep draws.

On mine, the main issue is that the TC is suspect. Everything I use is SS coils in TC mode (primarily Smok TFV4 Micros with the SS .25 coils and Pico mods set to 50W max in SS TC mode). My Cupti won't go above 460 irrespective of being set anywhere above that. Additionally, it does not supply above high 20-something watts when getting up to temp, despite taking a good 1.5-2 seconds to get to 460-ish; ramp up is ridiculously slow.

I think I have an early version of the mod since changing the wattage setting goes at a constant rate and takes forever to scroll. I tried it at 50W (getting there from 75W felt like it took a minute, literally) in wattage mode and it heated up quickly and hit pretty hard, so I know the coil can handle it.

Hoping that Breazy will help me get a new unit through Kanger if I can't get the TC working properly.

My first box mod was a Kanger & I was not impressed with the fit & finish. I'm about at the stage where I'm going to stay away from Kanger altogether.

CUPTI WAS A HORRIBLE DISAPPOINTMENT with TC preheat / ramp up. You are much better off with a $20 Nebox from Ecig-City because you can control the Preheat by setting your wattage higher and using TC to maintain set temp. Cupti did not allow user control of TC wattage or preheat and that was just stupid.

Re: leaking issues the coils may have been improperly wicked at factory or one of two orings on Coil stem is not sealing properly allowing air to leak into tank and compromise the tank vacuum that normally is keeping juice from flooding the coil.

 

[Tpat591]

Cupti replacement glass - Kangertech

 

[Tpat591]

So I had ordered 2) CLRBA from Vappora.com & received them today.

I am starting to believe Jay Haze was correct that someone saw an opportunity and they released a clone of a Kangertech product that has never been released. The box looks official enough but Lists on back that it comes with an Accessory Pack containing extra coil, replacement screws, Kanthal Wire and Cotton Sheet. This would be expected if it was a genuine Kanger product but was not included with either CLRBA received from Vappora.com.

The threading on the CLRBA sleeve is also very loosely fitting on the CLRBA base making it extremely easy to mis-thread the sleeve and very difficult to install the sleeve properly on the CLRBA base. The screwpost trapscrew threading is nice and smooth and of the quality you would expect from Kangertech.

None the less I was able to coil both up. One was wrapped with 26ga Ti on a 3.5mm rod and the other received 24g 316L SS. Wire trap screws worked very well and wire trapped cleanly without any noticeable guillotine shearing of the trapped wires.

The Ti coil is wicking very well, has a noticeable improvement in airflow & vape quality is stellar. Were it not for the seemingly endless firing delay and ramp up Cupiti inherently has I would say the CLRBA has made the Cupti into the Nebox replacement it should have been. It is a great improvement over the stock coils but that firing delay will always annoy the hell out of me.

I wasn't as lucky with the 316L. I will have to take that one out and either rewick it or eliminate a hot spot as after two very nice hits it suddenly became a fire breathing dragon and I got a lungful of utterly nasty burnt juice and cotton. It will take a while to stop hacking.

 

[keighles]

Hi Everyone,
I have had my Cupti for about a week. Now, I have read the majority of this thread, I see quite a bit of people who are having terrible flooding problems. I have not experienced this on the level that it becomes annoying. So no complaints with flooding.

I do however have a wicking problem. It seems like the chamber is creating a vacuum that can't get any extra air into the tank, causing the coil to dry out. I have tried both coils that it comes with. Both with the same results. I have tried to only screw the assembly into the body a bit loose, but not enough to leak.
It still drys out the coil. I pretty much have to unscrew the cap all of the way out for the coil to get fed with juice.
I make my own juice, and I mix it 70vg/30pg, that should be good enough. I am now using a rebuilt SS CLOCC coil as shown in a previous post. This one is drying out just like the factory made coils.

Has anyone else experienced this??
Any ideas???

 

[Tpat591]

How you rebuilding it? Horizontal coil wicked straight through the holes? Cotton may be too dense.

 

[keighles]

How you rebuilding it? Horizontal coil wicked straight through the holes? Cotton may be too dense.

Horizontal Titanium wicked loose straight through the holes

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[Tpat591]

Horizontal Titanium wicked loose straight through the holes

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Are you tucking the cotton back into the juice hole so it remains inside the coil body or are you leaving it to protrude. Leaving it to protrude can cause issues restricting flow of juice. If you are tucking it back in, I'm at a loss as to what else you can try other than to try to spread the center of the wick a bit at the juice hole.

I gotta admit that I rarely use Cupti any more because of the long ramp, restrictive coils & lack of wattage control in TC. Nebox still gets much more use along with the Smoant Knight V2s for my on the go vapes these days.

 

[keighles]

I have the wick protruding out the holes...
That should do it. Damn rookie mistake.
Thanks for the help, I'll report back after some use.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[Tpat591]

Not a rookie mistake as both methods are acceptable, but it can restrict as the cotton compresses at the wicking hole. After you pull cotton thorough, trim close to coil body & gently push the dry cotton back through the hole so it is pushing against the inside of coil body and blocking hole from inside. Some then take a needle and make a hollowed out cone in the cotton at the center of hole to aid in faster wicking.

 

[keighles]

Not a rookie mistake as both methods are acceptable, but it can restrict as the cotton compresses at the wicking hole. After you pull cotton thorough, trim close to coil body & gently push the dry cotton back through the hole so it is pushing against the inside of coil body and blocking hole from inside. Some then take a needle and make a hollowed out cone in the cotton at the center of hole to aid in faster wicking.

Thank you very much for the details!!! Appreciated


Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[keighles]

I have gone through 3 or 4 different builds on this factory coil body. I have wicked it a couple different ways. Through the holes, tucked back into the coil body, stuffed with wick, to as little wick as possible.
I still cannot get this thing to soak up the juice without unscrewing the top.
I do know that the original SS coil it came with worked just fine, until the taste was depreciating. Only after I put the Ni coil in, is when I started having this problem.

I have an RBA coming from Kangertech-online. Does anyone think that the RBA will alleviate this problem? I am certainly hoping so.

I like this setup, the only reason I bought it was because I lost by Billet Box Rev4. Which really sucks bad.

 

[Tpat591]

I have 2 and have had mixed success. my first build, a Ti coil, I wicked as I normally would have & it wicked ok and performed well through a few refills. My second was ss316 where I trimmed off the wick tails & thinned tthem before inserting to wells. That build provided burnt hits under TC within a dozen hits. On disassembly, wick & coil looked fine. Received Knight V2s shortly afterward & haven't looked back. Think I trimmed tails too short or thinned too much on the ss but never bothered to revisit it yet.