CLRBA Kanger CL RBA Deck for Cupti, Evod Pro and CLTank - CLRBA Kangertech
Looks like a Florida vape supply is carrying the CLRBA for $10.99
Looks like a Florida vape supply is carrying the CLRBA for $10.99
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Tried again to clear resistance a few times & finally got it to read 1.5ohm so I could enter NiCr TC Mode (kept reading resistance too low prior). I will say that the airflow through the NiCr coil is much more open than the SS 0.5ohm CLOCC. Enjoying the airflow on this coil so much better and it does seem to drop applied wattage in TC mode to 22w-26w when vaping and I haven't had a dry hit in TC mode yet (but I did flood the coil after all the ins & outs resetting resistance to proper ohms & it took a half dozen or more hits to vape off the flooding-but that is my bad because I know better).
My first box mod was a Kanger & I was not impressed with the fit & finish. I'm about at the stage where I'm going to stay away from Kanger altogether.
CUPTI WAS A HORRIBLE DISAPPOINTMENT with TC preheat / ramp up. You are much better off with a $20 Nebox from Ecig-City because you can control the Preheat by setting your wattage higher and using TC to maintain set temp. Cupti did not allow user control of TC wattage or preheat and that was just stupid.My friend and I both got Cuptis yesterday. She is having horrible leaking issues with either the 1.5 or 1.0 coils. I'm guessing a faulty chimney assembly on hers. I also had some flooding but was able to rectify it by tightening the crap out of things & blowing hard into the drip tip with the airflow closed and immediately opening it back up & taking some deep draws.
On mine, the main issue is that the TC is suspect. Everything I use is SS coils in TC mode (primarily Smok TFV4 Micros with the SS .25 coils and Pico mods set to 50W max in SS TC mode). My Cupti won't go above 460 irrespective of being set anywhere above that. Additionally, it does not supply above high 20-something watts when getting up to temp, despite taking a good 1.5-2 seconds to get to 460-ish; ramp up is ridiculously slow.
I think I have an early version of the mod since changing the wattage setting goes at a constant rate and takes forever to scroll. I tried it at 50W (getting there from 75W felt like it took a minute, literally) in wattage mode and it heated up quickly and hit pretty hard, so I know the coil can handle it.
Hoping that Breazy will help me get a new unit through Kanger if I can't get the TC working properly.
My first box mod was a Kanger & I was not impressed with the fit & finish. I'm about at the stage where I'm going to stay away from Kanger altogether.
Horizontal Titanium wicked loose straight through the holesHow you rebuilding it? Horizontal coil wicked straight through the holes? Cotton may be too dense.
Are you tucking the cotton back into the juice hole so it remains inside the coil body or are you leaving it to protrude. Leaving it to protrude can cause issues restricting flow of juice. If you are tucking it back in, I'm at a loss as to what else you can try other than to try to spread the center of the wick a bit at the juice hole.Horizontal Titanium wicked loose straight through the holes
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Thank you very much for the details!!! AppreciatedNot a rookie mistake as both methods are acceptable, but it can restrict as the cotton compresses at the wicking hole. After you pull cotton thorough, trim close to coil body & gently push the dry cotton back through the hole so it is pushing against the inside of coil body and blocking hole from inside. Some then take a needle and make a hollowed out cone in the cotton at the center of hole to aid in faster wicking.