View attachment 325018
(stupid phone, sorry you have to break your neck to see it.)
Hey guys, last month I felt froggy and wanted to design my own personal 18650 mechanical mod, so I leapt. I've got a great understanding of chemical properties, alloy smelting and properties, and a little electrical engineering (since I've started vaping
) so I wanted to apply that to building my idea of a perfect mechanical.
Which is somewhere near 100% conductivity, virtually no resistance, no oxidizability (patina/need to polish), and a good magnetic button.
And I succeeded! In fact it has 101% conductivity (yes that's possible, look up "most conductive metals") under .0104ohms resistance (really low! 10.4 microhm's), it's oxygen free so no patina polishing needed (although I'll probably coat it in pokyurethane to protect it anyway), and I already had my favorite magnetic button that just so happened to match.
Here's how I made it; my JDTech Stingray black copper top cap and bottom magnetic switch, with silver plated copper contacts all around is what I already had to work with because I'm OCD about firing buttons, and this one glides like astroglide, the throw feels touch-sensitive so I'm in love with it. These have .5mm threading on them so my pipe threading machine at work (lowes) can make my tube work as long as I find one (an it's free because I'm an employee).
http://www.pwalloy.com/en/productsInfo.asp?id=10
So for my tube, I started researching what the best alloy would be best for conductivity, and anyone who's ever looked knows silver and copper are the top two options, perfect, it'll match my top/bottom caps! So after a few hours of looking I came across a silver copper alloy (that has a gorgeous shiny, lighter copper luster to it) that's un-oxidizable, and a 100% conductivity rating: c10700 alloy is what I was looking for. It's used in high-speed railway contact wire, and communications electronics: a good sign lol. It's also relatively tough compared to most silver alloys because it's only .85% silver and the rest copper, which is much more suitable for mechanical tensile strength required of my mechanical mods. Since it's tough already, I jumped on the phone and talked to a cool cat from metal suppliers online (suppliersonline.com) and asked if I could bump the silver content up to 1.5% : Cu 98.5%, surprisingly yes I could, so I ordered a 6.98" x .866" billet of that beautiful Copper-Silver alloy, that I would later cut in half (to have two chances to make it right and/or make different size battery tubes later) and hollowed out on my lathe to 1mm thickness.
The trickiest part was measuring the exact length of the .5mm threading to match the stingrays locking ring and caps, however after taking it on and off the machine a few times, and cleaning up the edges on my lathe again, she's perfect! I thought for sure I'd have to use the other half of the billet after a mess up, but the surgery was a success, I feel like a mech mod dr. Frankenstein, IT LIIIIVES!
I volt drop tested her with a fresh 2000mAH Vtc4 Sony and a .3ohm coil and it only dropped .08! So I'm definitely keeping the contacts clean and everything else sparkly before I coat it in polyurethane (May not if it affects cond./volt drop or whatever else) to keep it shimmering, not because I have to though, it's jut because I love that "wet glass" look.
I usually try to ignore conductivity tests and volt drops etc. because there's so many variables including thickness and a plethora of other things so I like to do the vape test, and she does hit like a train! I won't lie and say there's a crazy difference between my copper stingray, because there isn't, I've noticed the same dual coil feels barely warmer in vapor though. And another cool thing is if I notice any heat at all it goes away in a flash, it even feels cold to the touch a few seconds after putting it down that's probably the biggest difference I've noticed. And again, I personally love the slightly silvery copper, trust me the crappy iphone pic doesn't do it justice.
-Hope someone gets a kick out of this, I did it for you ECF! (jk it's mine, back off! ) I'm wondering why any other mechanical manufacturers have used c10700? I mean high conductive, and no need to polish?! I'd like to see a total sterling silver mod one day 
, I've seen that it's super cheap in Mexico, hmmm. Holler back now if you want to see more/blueprints etc.!
Vape on!
Hey guys, last month I felt froggy and wanted to design my own personal 18650 mechanical mod, so I leapt. I've got a great understanding of chemical properties, alloy smelting and properties, and a little electrical engineering (since I've started vaping
) so I wanted to apply that to building my idea of a perfect mechanical.Which is somewhere near 100% conductivity, virtually no resistance, no oxidizability (patina/need to polish), and a good magnetic button.
And I succeeded! In fact it has 101% conductivity (yes that's possible, look up "most conductive metals") under .0104ohms resistance (really low! 10.4 microhm's), it's oxygen free so no patina polishing needed (although I'll probably coat it in pokyurethane to protect it anyway), and I already had my favorite magnetic button that just so happened to match
.Here's how I made it; my JDTech Stingray black copper top cap and bottom magnetic switch, with silver plated copper contacts all around is what I already had to work with because I'm OCD about firing buttons, and this one glides like astroglide, the throw feels touch-sensitive so I'm in love with it. These have .5mm threading on them so my pipe threading machine at work (lowes) can make my tube work as long as I find one (an it's free because I'm an employee
).http://www.pwalloy.com/en/productsInfo.asp?id=10
So for my tube, I started researching what the best alloy would be best for conductivity, and anyone who's ever looked knows silver and copper are the top two options, perfect, it'll match my top/bottom caps! So after a few hours of looking I came across a silver copper alloy (that has a gorgeous shiny, lighter copper luster to it) that's un-oxidizable, and a 100% conductivity rating: c10700 alloy is what I was looking for. It's used in high-speed railway contact wire, and communications electronics: a good sign lol. It's also relatively tough compared to most silver alloys because it's only .85% silver and the rest copper, which is much more suitable for mechanical tensile strength required of my mechanical mods
. Since it's tough already, I jumped on the phone and talked to a cool cat from metal suppliers online (suppliersonline.com) and asked if I could bump the silver content up to 1.5% : Cu 98.5%, surprisingly yes I could, so I ordered a 6.98" x .866" billet of that beautiful Copper-Silver alloy, that I would later cut in half (to have two chances to make it right and/or make different size battery tubes later) and hollowed out on my lathe to 1mm thickness.The trickiest part was measuring the exact length of the .5mm threading to match the stingrays locking ring and caps, however after taking it on and off the machine a few times, and cleaning up the edges on my lathe again, she's perfect! I thought for sure I'd have to use the other half of the billet after a mess up, but the surgery was a success, I feel like a mech mod dr. Frankenstein, IT LIIIIVES!
I volt drop tested her with a fresh 2000mAH Vtc4 Sony and a .3ohm coil and it only dropped .08! So I'm definitely keeping the contacts clean and everything else sparkly before I coat it in polyurethane (May not if it affects cond./volt drop or whatever else) to keep it shimmering, not because I have to though
, it's jut because I love that "wet glass" look.I usually try to ignore conductivity tests and volt drops etc. because there's so many variables including thickness and a plethora of other things so I like to do the vape test, and she does hit like a train! I won't lie and say there's a crazy difference between my copper stingray, because there isn't, I've noticed the same dual coil feels barely warmer in vapor though. And another cool thing is if I notice any heat at all it goes away in a flash, it even feels cold to the touch a few seconds after putting it down that's probably the biggest difference I've noticed. And again, I personally love the slightly silvery copper, trust me the crappy iphone pic doesn't do it justice.
-Hope someone gets a kick out of this
, I did it for you ECF! (jk it's mine, back off! ) I'm wondering why any other mechanical manufacturers have used c10700? I mean high conductive, and no need to polish?! I'd like to see a total sterling silver mod one day , I've seen that it's super cheap in Mexico, hmmm. Holler back now if you want to see more/blueprints etc.!Vape on!
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AND, I don't even do mechs 'cause I'm a wienie. 
. (I'd much rather prefer to use my vamo to be honest if it could do what my mech does) Thank you, it turned out to be the best performing mod I own on my first try =D. I think like I said next is to basically flip the silver and copper content, to make a basically sterling silver mod (won't that look purdy? 
