Cyclone

[Jazzi Mike]

So after reading the cyclone thread, I shelled out the $65 and bought one. The bad thing was is that I already had an RM2 working very well. I built coils after coils for my Cyclone and it was never right. Sometimes, it would not put out much vapor or otherwise I'd get dry hits.

So after some serious tinkering, I finally got a working build! My usual build is a semi-micro. I wrap 7-8 coils around 1.5mm Ekowool and then push them very close together like a micro coil. In the RM2, this build puts out a ton of vapor, but in the Cyclone, it just put out a little vapor and got really hot.

The Cyclone seems to work best with just a simple coil. 5/6 wrap of 30 gauge Kanthal came out to 1.23 ohms. It's a bit warmer than I typically like my vape, but it is equally as good as the RM2, just a bit different!

 

[custom-classic]

Where did you get it? Indyvaporshop? Are you gonna try the AFC cap? Dual coils? Pics???

 

[Jazzi Mike]

I got mine from OKC vapes. I couldn't get it from Indy Vapor Shop. The temptation to buy a hornet and a cyclone together would have been too great.

I tried to set dual coils up on it, but with only the one air hole, it didn't work out very well. I didn't get the AFC because I didn't feel like I wanted to use a 510/510 adapter or sanding my Reo catchcup down. I am kind of vanilla in my coil building. My builds are always above 1 ohm and I am usually okay with the air hole on my attys.

 

[fullsleeve]

I usually run around 9 wraps of 27ga on a drill bit on my cyclone with air hole drilled out. I can smoke out a room in one hit. I had an rm2 but like you with the cylone, I just couldn't get it right. ive been using my cyclone daily for months and it works like a charm everytime. I got a hornet too, which is nice, but for some reason I always grab the cyclone

 

[pdib]

Kay, I'm ready . . . . . somebody send me a cyclone (w/ AFC).

 

[Crash Moses]

I too was non-plussed with the stock Cyclone. It wasn't bad but it certainly wasn't better than the RM2. However, throw in the air flow control and dual coils and the Cyclone is a completely different critter. It illicits the same languid smile and fit of giggles my Reo does.

@Dibby...if I didn't have a kid in college, two car payments, a mortgage, and wasn't head of a single income household I would send you one in a heartbeat...(or two heartbeats depending on when pay day falls during the month).

But you've already machined your Reo...now you have to get one. Me 'tinks you're going to like it...

 

[pdib]

@CrashMo . . .

 

[Crash Moses]

Well...I do believe that's cheating. Harrumph!


(you should still get a Cyclone/AFC)

 

[pdib]

(i still want to)

 

[ebarrios]

@CrashMo . . .

nice! :O
i want to try a three post setup on the reo. I'm assuming you had to modify it for BF, was it difficult?




-sent form my mobile phonr

 

[pdib]

Yeah, it was difficult. I broke it. The centerpost on this version of fancy clone is solid SS. I broke the drill bit off inside of there. Fortunately, the centerpost for the IGO-S (and pro'ly a bunch of other atties) is identical except in length. I just stole the already drilled out centerpost from one of my IGO-Ss(s), and Bob's yer Uncle! Those ones are chromed brass, cakewalk to drill out. Here's how I'm configuring the coil before "insertion" (tee-hee) for the Igo/short post setup.







wouldn't ya know it, I had to go with René41. Man, that stuff is a pain in the keester.

 

[Treebeard]

Yeah, it was difficult. I broke it. The centerpost on this version of fancy clone is solid SS. I broke the drill bit off inside of there. Fortunately, the centerpost for the IGO-S (and pro'ly a bunch of other atties) is identical except in length. I just stole the already drilled out centerpost from one of my IGO-Ss(s), and Bob's yer Uncle! Those ones are chromed brass, cakewalk to drill out. Here's how I'm configuring the coil before "insertion" (tee-hee) for the Igo/short post setup.




wouldn't ya know it, I had to go with René41. Man, that stuff is a pain in the keester.

Was it difficult to drill the center post of the IGO-S? Is it SS? I'm using one as a dripper and really like it. Would love to drill that baby for bottom feed, tho.

 

[pdib]

The IGO-S post is chromed brass. It is pretty easy to drill. There's a video at the tail end of my Igo-s on REO thread that Thraizer linked me to. Basically, if you have a drill press, drill a little (5/16"? . . . just bigger than a 510 OD) hole in a chunk of plywood. Then you can set the base of the atty on the ply and the 510 fits in the hole you drilled, and it's a flat, stable platform for drilling.

here it is . . .

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/430213-igo-s-reo-2.html#post9823634

 

[pdib]

PS: if your hole does center out in the bottom of the 510 post, you can countersink it like this. Just so the juice isn't blocked by the offset hole landing right on a high spot on the REO 510+.

 

[Treebeard]

The IGO-S post is chromed brass. It is pretty easy to drill. There's a video at the tail end of my Igo-s on REO thread that Thraizer linked me to. Basically, if you have a drill press, drill a little (5/16"? . . . just bigger than a 510 OD) hole in a chunk of plywood. Then you can set the base of the atty on the ply and the 510 fits in the hole you drilled, and it's a flat, stable platform for drilling.

here it is . . .

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/430213-igo-s-reo-2.html#post9823634

Oh, sure. I have several of those just layin' around. I drilled a post on a "cheapie" dripper by hand once but don juana do that again.

Gonna try to hit up a local jeweler that maybe can do some precision drilling.

 

[pdib]

OK, Tree, or just send it to me and I'll drill it out for you.

 

[turbocad6]

weird that I got an igo-s and drilled it, and the one I got had a stainless steel center post??

best way to drill these out is from the top straight down, right through the threaded hole from the top. I know you think the bit may damage the threads but unless you're really drunk and go completely sideways it won't, you would have to take a serious amount of meat off of the threads to affect anything and it just won't happen.

 

[pdib]

the centerpost on the Nimbus is ~1 1/2 mile longer . . .. deep drilling territory. Yep, I always drill down from the top too. Between this Nimbus one and the attempts at drilling through 32.5mm of SS 4-40 screw, I've come to know exactly the sound you get before the drill bit breaks into the workpiece. Generally speaking, if I wanted to know whether a centerpost was plated or ss, I would buff the bottom of it (the 510 contact part) until smooth with various grits of sandpaper. Usually, by the time it's glassy smooth, it's either turned yellow or stayed silver as well. And that bit of smoothing seems to help with v-drop too.

 

[turbocad6]

I'm very sure that my igo-s is stainless center pin, not sure why though, I picked it up from a b&m, if it was brass I would have replaced it with stainless anyway but was glad to see it actually was stainless. is this not normal for the igo-s? maybe mine was old stock? new stock? no idea, until now I just assumed they were all the way mine is

 

[pdib]

I meant, generally speaking. I wouldn't question your metal composition identification skills, T-cad. As far as I recall, the IGO-S was one of those atties that was presented as SS, and with a surge in demand, the production got farmed out to various manufacturers, and the materials and build quality got a bit haphazard. We used to identify them by cap shape and such. (as well as the igo-l)