Cyclone RBA Nirvana

[ukeman]

Gad, I'm so not detail oriented when it comes to analyzing the differences between the two (RM2/Cyclone)... I use .5 to .7 Ohm micro/nano sized coils (26, 27, or 28 wire) and cotton... (through or under the coil).

I get better flavor from the Cyclone non AFC cap over the RM2 for some reason... that's why i stick with it (although as soon as Rob comes out with the kit I'm good for at least one more Grand and will run both).

The only thing weird is that yeah i do like to keep the wick wet, and when i pick up my Grand to vape, there's usually some juice coming out under the atty... i guess 'cause its not draining like the RM2 would and there's more juice in there than i thought (although it doesn't vape like its flooded).

Its hard to tell how much juice is going in there... re: squeezing i'm afraid to give it a damn good squeeze so i'm doing a bunch of half squeezes.

Enjoying the hell out of my Reo now that sub ohms is hap'nin. oooweee!

Could someone tell me what kind of drill, drill bits to get to work on widening the airhole?



and wondering if anyone is considering drilling a second hole in their RM2 or whatever for duals?

 

[MamaTried]

Gad, I'm so not detail oriented when it comes to analyzing the differences between the two (RM2/Cyclone)... I use .5 to .7 Ohm micro/nano sized coils (26, 27, or 28 wire) and cotton... (through or under the coil).

I get better flavor from the Cyclone non AFC cap over the RM2 for some reason... that's why i stick with it (although as soon as Rob comes out with the kit I'm good for at least one more Grand and will run both).

The only thing weird is that yeah i do like to keep the wick wet, and when i pick up my Grand to vape, there's usually some juice coming out under the atty... i guess 'cause its not draining like the RM2 would and there's more juice in there than i thought (although it doesn't vape like its flooded).

Its hard to tell how much juice is going in there... re: squeezing i'm afraid to give it a damn good squeeze so i'm doing a bunch of half squeezes.

Enjoying the hell out of my Reo now that sub ohms is hap'nin. oooweee!

Could someone tell me what kind of drill, drill bits to get to work on widening the airhole?



and wondering if anyone is considering drilling a second hole in their RM2 or whatever for duals?

Mr. dibby knows a thing or two about that, as well as how to recover from drills gone wild...

 

[Crash Moses]

Good stuff, CM! Took guts to grind down that hunk o' reo metal.

Thanks. I stared at it a long time before I started grinding. A couple of stiff belts of whiskey helped.

 

[Funk Dracula]

Owners of an AFC, can one of you please take a nicely lit pick of the inside of the AFC looking in from the bottom? I'd like to see it.

It looks like the joint of the spinning inside part is right above the deck and just below the air holes when assembled, am I right? I can't really tell from the only view I can find of it from a youtube video.

I'm thinking maybe there's a possibility the bottom outside of the AFC cap could be milled down to match the circumference of the original Cyclone cap, and everything above what needs to be milled would still be wide enough to sit flush against the top of the cup and cover it all up neatly.

Wishful thinking???



Thanks!

-B

 

[Crash Moses]

It might be possible but it's much easier to mill down the Reo I think (aluminum vs. stainless steel).

As you can see from the picture below the AFC is all one piece up to where the air holes are. The part that spins comprises the top two thirds of the inside (roughly). At the base the AFC is 1 mm wider than the stock cap. The stock catch cup sits 7 mm above the deck and I had to grind 3 mm off the top to fit the AFC. You would need to file/sand/grind the bottom 3 mm of the AFC to a depth of 1 mm in order to fit.

With the right tools and expertise though it could be done I think. Darkzero could do it for sure.

 

[Funk Dracula]

Crash,

Thanks for the pic man!

I was hoping that's what it looked like.

Well first things first, that atty is my next incoming vapemail for sure.

-B

 

[Crash Moses]

Crash,

Thanks for the pic man!

I was hoping that's what it looked like.

Well first things first, that atty is my next incoming vapemail for sure.

-B

No problem, Mr. Dracula!

The AFC really maximizes the performance of the Cyclone, I think, and the cap sits firm enough that I just need to twist my drip tip to open or close the air holes.

Since I modded my tumbled I've barely touched my other Reos.

 

[Jazzi Mike]

Damn you guys. I bought a Cyclone to try on my Reo. I'm glad I didn't go for the AFC. I don't think I have unsealed 510-510 connectors.

 

[turbocad6]

Wow after seeing those pictures I think that would definitely work all you need to do is put it on a lathe and cut a little bit off the bottom to fit
Into the well. I like the cut reo better but that's definitely a really good option to do it without cutting it, def looks doable

 

[turbocad6]

This is how I drilled my feed hole





I like it because my wick is all around the center and when I squonk it the center is filled with fluid wets the wick and coils and then sucks the excess right back down.I haven't had problems with my juice getting burnt flavor back into the bottle, if you avoid squonking right after vaping then your fluid wouldn't get singed I think. I even sometimes squonk after I hit and hit hot coils and see puffs of smoke from the airholes sometimes and still don't get a burnt fluid back into the tank from what I see

 

[ukeman]

tcad6; not a diy myself, but like the idea of milling the Reo... seems like one can eyeball how far down to mill. (i mean if i could find someone to do it)
So with AFC, and milling the Reo, would we still need/want to alter the AFC for optimal low resistance vaping?

here is what it looks like with an rm2 after it's milled down, it's not bad, just not recessed into the well because there is no well

 

[turbocad6]

Other way round for me, can't use plated, attys, make me unwell, so all I use is a cyclone, find them perfect, & easy to coil
Frank

Same here.. I don't like plated attys either, I prefer all stainless... not to speak of the other reasons I listed above

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

this I agree so much with, the only thing that should be in contact with the Juice to me is stainless steel, titanium, glass and hopefully what would be a non leaching plastic and o ring. brass and copper and lead and solder and any metal that oxadizes are all things that shouldn't be soaking in juice i think, I know I can taste brass when it's used in the feeding posts, I swapped my stock brass 510 feeding pin out to stainless so now I have no brass at all in the juice stream

 

[turbocad6]

Yeah you can definitely eyeball it I mean you just want to get it down to where is almost flush you'll still have a little well around it but it'll be almost to the 510 connection give or take, your going to use an oring to seal it, this is not something that requires high precision or accuracy

 

[Crash Moses]

tcad6; not a diy myself, but like the idea of milling the Reo... seems like one can eyeball how far down to mill. (i mean if i could find someone to do it)
So with AFC, and milling the Reo, would we still need/want to alter the AFC for optimal low resistance vaping?

Yup, I just eyeballed it. When I started to get close I would clean out the aluminum shavings and do a test fit. Measuring after the fact showed needing to remove 3mm for the AFC to fit.

Milling the Reo down is just to make the AFC sit on the Cyclone properly. If you mill the Reo down there is no need to do anything to the AFC (and vice versa).

 

[ukeman]

sounds like milling the Reo the simplest option... and imo for me, no going back; i only got back to Reoville after folks starting hopping their RM2/Cyclones up with sub ohm coils...

Thinking; Rob is going with upgrade kits and should be some new b/f rba's on the horizon; hell small diameter rba's are cool

 

[Jazzi Mike]

I cannot get my cyclone to fire on either my REO Grand or REO Mini 2.1. I just have the Cyclone BF atty, not the AFC cap.

 

[ukeman]

try on any device... it could be not making contact... check the pos. pin at bottom and see if you can unthread it to beyond the whatchamacallit.... if you haven't done so.

I cannot get my cyclone to fire on either my REO Grand or REO Mini 2.1. I just have the Cyclone BF atty, not the AFC cap.

 

[turbocad6]

if you're using an o ring, which of course you must to keep it from leaking as you feed then you have to really tighten it down a lot to compress it enough to allow contact. try testing it first with no o ring, then maybe try to use a skinnier o ring and tighten it down tighter, I had to tighten mine with a small screwdriver wedged between the 2 posts to really tighten it enough and then get it oriented the way I wanted it. I think the threaded portion as a whole is slightly less length than something like the rm2. another reason why I'm not planning on swapping atties around so much anymore, pretty much just staying with the cyclone, it really is good enough that that's not even a drawback though to me

 

[darkzero]

Pretty cool cutting down the Reo to fit the AFC! I certainly could easily mill it but I don't have the guts to do it to one of mine, well really cause I don't have a need to. Maybe if I had a Cyclone with AFC.. and doing so would also allow pretty much any large diameter RBA to be used. Hmm......

 

[golphinn]

Has anyone purchased replacement screws for their Cyclone yet? Where did ya find them and what is the size? Thanks!