Dead atomizer graveyard thread

[joedirt]

In order to learn the failure modes for atomizer, are people interested in donating their time for science?

I was thinking for anyone that dissected their dead atty or when the atomizer resistance goes over 10ohms and quits working. They could dissect their atty and post details.
(see thread /forum/atomizer-mods/13074-atomizer-disection-re-assembly .html)



Example:
Model: 901
Good resistance: 3ohms
Dead resistance: 25ohms
How failed: unknown/gradual/sudden / added juice directly when it was hot
Coil appearance: Broken leg/ thin wire / discoloration
Coil features: 10 wraps around 1mm ceramic appears to be 36ga NiCr
Pics:

 

[DarkCat]

once i kill one i will

 

[Majestic]

Best of luck in your research. From the various postings I have seen here on atty life there is too many variables to draw a conclusion. Not too mention the threads slowly start going off topic or lack description. Model of atty, brand of juice, frequency of use, power source, etc, all play a part in the life span in my opinion.

_____________________________________________________________

Here's my experience with multiple 901 atty deaths and disections........

Resistance when new and during use: Between 2 and 4 Ohms.

Resistance when dead: Over 1k Ohms.

How failed: Broken coil wire with sudden death. Killed a couple by accidental frying (stuck battery or manual switch). Some were killed, I suspect, due wire embrittlement and going from a hot water wash to a cold cola soak. Still others died of natural causes due to embrittlement with no notable outside influence.

Coil appearance: Varied from brownish gunk to grayish ash.

 

[surbitonPete]

I think the reason for atomizers resistance changing is that sometimes the wire has broken but the gunk is holding the wire together and the gunk actually helps to 'make' the circuit and you get a reading through the gunk. I can't see any other reason for changes in resistance however much gunk builds up on the coil or however old the coil is.

 

[GreyHawk]

Read this thread and decided to test some of my old dead attys. Oddest thing. Had 4 "dead" 510 attys. Dead in that they didn't produce much vapor at all. All 4 registered between 2.6 - 2.8 Ohms. The kicker? All of the "working" 510 atty's I have (including 2 brand new never used) registered exactly 2.5. That doesn't seem like a substantial enough difference to consider them "dead". However, I've cleaned each and none seems to have any build-up or other "visible" problem. Yet they give only the slightest hint of vapor.
Just thought I'd share.

 

[joedirt]

Read this thread and decided to test some of my old dead attys. Oddest thing. Had 4 "dead" 510 attys. Dead in that they didn't produce much vapor at all. All 4 registered between 2.6 - 2.8 Ohms. The kicker? All of the "working" 510 atty's I have (including 2 brand new never used) registered exactly 2.5. That doesn't seem like a substantial enough difference to consider them "dead". However, I've cleaned each and none seems to have any build-up or other "visible" problem. Yet they give only the slightest hint of vapor.
Just thought I'd share.

Seems like if it really is still under 3 ohms, then when you put a battery to it, it would have to work. So, either the NiCr heater coil does something weird when it heats up, like becomes an open. Or, those atty are just not contacting the battery enough when put back together. Or, they are plugged ceramic, or metal mesh, or just no longer wicking. Or, the only other possibility is the coil is caked in gunk that keeps the heat inside so you don't get any vapor (10s burn might work??)

I would think you could take the mesh off of one and see if after like 10 seconds the "bad" atty gets red hot. If you have the puff actuated battery, you can gerry rig it or blow into the air intake(?) and watch in a mirror??

 

[emus]

Lost one atty in one year vaping.

Sudden death of a RN4081 after dropping on concrete floor.

Coil is open circuit.

 

[GreyHawk]

Seems like if it really is still under 3 ohms, then when you put a battery to it, it would have to work. So, either the NiCr heater coil does something weird when it heats up, like becomes an open. Or, those atty are just not contacting the battery enough when put back together. Or, they are plugged ceramic, or metal mesh, or just no longer wicking. Or, the only other possibility is the coil is caked in gunk that keeps the heat inside so you don't get any vapor (10s burn might work??)

I would think you could take the mesh off of one and see if after like 10 seconds the "bad" atty gets red hot. If you have the puff actuated battery, you can gerry rig it or blow into the air intake(?) and watch in a mirror??

I have a homemade usb hooked up so if I get some time tomorrow I'm going to burn the heck out of a few of them and see if they improve. If not I'll try disassembling them and post my findings.

 

[crazyhorse]

10 out of 10 801 atomizers failed at the solder joint. Joint fails releasing the leg. Coil intact in every instance.

 

[GreyHawk]

So if I'm understanding right the connection is intact, indicated by a resistance reading, but leg or pot contact is broken which would lead to insufficient heating? Sorry but my experience in these things/electronics is somewhat limited.
Still working on getting a spare few hours to cannibalize mine. Kids haven't given me any peace

 

[emus]

10 out of 10 801 atomizers failed at the solder joint. Joint fails releasing the leg. Coil intact in every instance.

Thats not good. I hope my new M401 attys have good solder joints. Not easy to solder that Ni-Cr coil wire. Not sure how the manufacturer terminates the coil. Crimp plus solder?

 

[vaporich]

what are your experiences with using 901 atomizers with 6 volts? does it hold up, or usually cause sudden death?

 

[GreyHawk]

Quick update here. Took the rotary tool to 2 att's and both had more or less the same problem; barely any wicking material left. What was left was brown and toasty and there was VERY little of it. Probably enough to hold half of one normal sized drop of liquid. Mesh was fine, wires were fine, etc. Material was the only problem I saw on either one. I took pictures but they're not worth posting as they don't even show anything.

 

[Shadowdr]

Quick update here. Took the rotary tool to 2 att's and both had more or less the same problem; barely any wicking material left. What was left was brown and toasty and there was VERY little of it. Probably enough to hold half of one normal sized drop of liquid. Mesh was fine, wires were fine, etc. Material was the only problem I saw on either one. I took pictures but they're not worth posting as they don't even show anything.

This is a problem with many attys. They can still be used however if you just drip into them. I have a 4.5 volt wall wort that I made a box for and directly drip into a 4081 that has no wick. Vapes great but a little hard getting used to such strong vapor, no 36 mg in there.

 

[Carlos49]

10 out of 10 801 atomizers failed at the solder joint. Joint fails releasing the leg. Coil intact in every instance.

I agree 100% with you I had 12 dead and 11 of them was a failed solder joint. So far I have had good luck in rebuilding them. When I do I have been using a Trick that HockerMagnum told me about. Put a "V" in both the NiCr wire and your leads ( hook them together ) and crimp before you solder. If the joint gets that hot to melt the solder the connection is still there. Another point is that the factory joints are on the top part of the pot, where all the heat is at. I have been putting my joints on the bottom of the pot and have had very good success so far.