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they "kinda-sorta" do... you have to jam em in pretty good and they doan seat at the bottom of the clip, but the DO hold em.
Wow, I just came across this thread, and then the others you've done Mamu, I am stunned!! These are the best looking mods I've seen! Can't believe I am only finding them now 
The Denali is exactly what I have been looking for but it looks like I have missed the boat on the list. Have you created one of your lovely PDF walkthrough's for it yet? I found the Flip Top and the Dena (on this thread of course) but couldn't see one for the Denali?
I've never attempted a mod before, but if it's the only way I'll get one I might have to try
I actually live not far from MadVapes so I can pick up bits and pieces from them, and maybe pick the brains of one of their tech's if necessary but a walkthrough would be awesome, the others are so detailed it makes me think I might be able to do it
Thanks and keep up the great work!
Oh, nearly forgot, I love the 1.5 ohm Dual Coils at 5-5.7v, currently using the 4.8v Nimh batteries, this wouldn't 'cut out' reproducing that experience would it? Some vari volt boxes I have tried in the past will shut down at this combination.
The Denali is exactly what I have been looking for but it looks like I have missed the boat on the list. Have you created one of your lovely PDF walkthrough's for it yet? I found the Flip Top and the Dena (on this thread of course) but couldn't see one for the Denali?
I've never attempted a mod before, but if it's the only way I'll get one I might have to try
I actually live not far from MadVapes so I can pick up bits and pieces from them, and maybe pick the brains of one of their tech's if necessary but a walkthrough would be awesome, the others are so detailed it makes me think I might be able to do it
Thanks and keep up the great work!
Oh, nearly forgot, I love the 1.5 ohm Dual Coils at 5-5.7v, currently using the 4.8v Nimh batteries, this wouldn't 'cut out' reproducing that experience would it? Some vari volt boxes I have tried in the past will shut down at this combination.
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TY LFC
I'm not planning on doing a walk through for Denali. The wiring for Dena and Denali is very similar so the Dena walk through should get you through modifying it to do a Denali mod.
I'm running 1.5 ohm triple coil cartos at 5.5v and no problems with the OKR converter handling that load. There are a few batts though that won't handle that kind of load - they'll cut out or their protection circuit will shut them down.
I'm not planning on doing a walk through for Denali. The wiring for Dena and Denali is very similar so the Dena walk through should get you through modifying it to do a Denali mod.
I'm running 1.5 ohm triple coil cartos at 5.5v and no problems with the OKR converter handling that load. There are a few batts though that won't handle that kind of load - they'll cut out or their protection circuit will shut them down.
Thanks for responding, I am looking forward to having a go at making one. I'll use the Dena as a starting point on your advice.
It hadn't occurred to me it may have been the protection circuit in the battery causing the cut out.
Great info, much appreciated.
It hadn't occurred to me it may have been the protection circuit in the battery causing the cut out.
Great info, much appreciated.
O my Mamu, I would really love to have a Dena mod, your brother had better be eternally grateful!!
I'm not selling the Dena mod. Since you have said you want to be a modder, give the walk through a go and make one.
Below are photos of a Dena-Denali based mod. The enclosure is a 1" x 2" x 3" Radio Shack project box. The mod features a Kr808D-1 battery connection, magnetic cover latches and 2 - 18350 batteries in series. A velcro strap helps secure the batteries.
Thanks for the design and inspiration!
Thanks for the design and inspiration!
Attachments
Nice clean build Cool Breeze, you have got the precision of the Dena line down pat.
sent from my HTC genisis using Tapatalk
sent from my HTC genisis using Tapatalk
Mamu would be proud...I like how you've drilled the magnet holes right through the cover, cool look, also doubles as a giant fridge magnet
Sent via priority one sub-space communication
Sent via priority one sub-space communication
Congratz on getting er done! 
Ok, so I was at lowes today looking for a #12 finishing washer. I ended up with a pack of 1/4 inch finishing washers, being the only ones I could find. (But, I was in a hurry so that might have been the problem!) The 1/4 inch has too small of a hole for the connector to fit through and it seems a bit too wide for the box, but barely. Is the atty connector supposed to go through? And I've asked this question in another thread, but still am not sure of the answer. What is the best epoxy to use? This mod is the one I'm gonna build. Thanks Mamu! Really appreciate this wonderful walkthrough. I have everything I need on hand now except the washer, and the epoxy. And the Kapton tape actually now that I think about it. Do they sell that at radio shack, or where would I get it? And the 1/2 inch would be the right width?
I use JBQuik and JBWeld. JBWeld for atty connections anything you really want secure. Internally mounted switches and stuff I sometimes save some time with the JBQuik. Both are two part epoxies. JBQuik is fairly set in 30 minutes and fully set in 4 hours but not much working time before it stiffens and it's not as strong as JBWeld. JBWeld should be allowed to set up at least overnight. I also would like to find Kapton tape to build the module how she did even though I'm using a different box.
PS: Home depot has the washers.
PS: Home depot has the washers.
The 10K from the disable pin 1 across to ground gives you a battery cutoff voltage of ???
Well wait, that's what I'm ASSUMING it does. Is/Does it?
Well wait, that's what I'm ASSUMING it does. Is/Does it?
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Jiminee Cricket... how big of a crowbar do u need to pry that back cover off?
If the #12 washer is too large, use a #10 washer. If you're using the #12 washer with an extended atty connector, the washer's hole is perfect to fit the connector through. But if you're using a smaller washer or a standard atty connector (which has a wider base) you'll need to widen the washer's hole in order to insert the connector through it. You can dremel the hole larger, or you can use a punch. It's easier to use a center tapered punch - a couple of whacks with a hammer and you've got a very nice hole the right size. I drilled an 11/32" hole in a piece of 2x6 wood, center the washer over the hole in the wood, then center the punch over the washer's hole and give a few whacks on the punch with a hammer to widen the washer's hole. Easy peasy.
For epoxy, I use VersaChem Plastic Welder. It has a 15 minute set time and gives a very strong bond.
For Kapton tape - just google it as there's lots of suppliers that sell it. I bought both 1/4" and 1/2" on ebay.
When using pin 1 of the converter (the control on/off pin) you need the 10K resister across pin 1 and pin 3 to disable the converter from always being on. Without the 10K resistor the converter will always be on - will continuously fire the atty - so you need the resistor to prevent that as you want the atty firing only when you press the atty switch.
If you want a battery cutoff voltage, use a zener diode on pin 1. See my Zack thread for an example of the wiring for that or see bstedh's thread Low Voltage Cutoff.
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I found Kapton tape quite expensive. In lieu of that I used Heat Shrink Tubing from Harbour Freight. It works fine.
It's actually quite easy. The grip is light but firm due to the perfect fit of the lid. There's a slight deformity in the main part of the box where the top or bottom, depending on how you build it, meets the lid. A slight lift with a fingernail easily releases it. It's a tiny fraction of the force that would damage a nail. It doesn't take much length of a finger or thumbnail. As a bonus it has a most wonderful hollow and sure thunk sound when the lid snaps back into place. It's a joy!
I'm pleased to see this thread reawaken!
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