Dena vv mod... Denali's lil' sis... step-by-step how to

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skipdashu

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When using pin 1 of the converter (the control on/off pin) you need the 10K resister across pin 1 and pin 3 to disable the converter from always being on. Without the 10K resistor the converter will always be on - will continuously fire the atty - so you need the resistor to prevent that as you want the atty firing only when you press the atty switch.

If you want a battery cutoff voltage, use a zener diode on pin 1. See my Zack thread for an example of the wiring for that or see bstedh's thread Low Voltage Cutoff.

OK, have been reading the LVC thread and will search for a "Zack" thead. I was just thinking there was a way two do it with a resistive divider.
 

Sev00

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Below are photos of a Dena-Denali based mod. The enclosure is a 1" x 2" x 3" Radio Shack project box. The mod features a Kr808D-1 battery connection, magnetic cover latches and 2 - 18350 batteries in series. A velcro strap helps secure the batteries.

Thanks for the design and inspiration!


Nicely done!

Sev
 

Sev00

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Mamu,

OK you have officially reached goddess status in my book! I built my 1st mod 3 weeks ago and spent 3 or 4 weeks researching it. I wish I had seen this. But I have to say the journey was half the fun. My next one is going to be the Denali's. Thanks for the great information.

Can you post the part numbers and source of the Denali toggle switches and pot? I believe all else is the same from your Dena parts list.

Sev

P.S. I think I will use a Digipot with up/dwn buttons.
 

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mamu

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What's the easiest way to add led's to this setup so when you hit fire button they come on?

Although I've not wired an atty firing LED indicator with this converter, only a batt status LED, the easiest way I reckon would be to wire one leg of a 220 ohm resister to the + leg of the LED. Then solder the free end of the resistor, the free end of the wire from pin 4, and the free end of the + atty connector wire together. The - leg of the LED goes to ground.

Let me know if this works. :)
 

mamu

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Mamu,

OK you have officially reached goddess status in my book! I built my 1st mod 3 weeks ago and spent 3 or 4 weeks researching it. I wish I had seen this. But I have to say the journey was half the fun. My next one is going to be the Denali's. Thanks for the great information.

Can you post the part numbers and source of the Denali toggle switches and pot? I believe all else is the same from your Dena parts list.

Sev

P.S. I think I will use a Digipot with up/dwn buttons.

Thanks Sev!

I'm sorry, but I don't share a parts list or walk through for mods that I sell or have sold. You can prob figure out why. :)
 

Algernon

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Thank you for the reply. I wasn't sure if it was worth the extra $$ to go with IMR or not.

This isn't a booster mod. The amperage you would recieve out of two standard Li-ion batteries in series is adequate enough not to require IMR batteries. I only use IMR's in booster circuits where the amperage that is needed from one cell exceeds what a single Li-ion battery could do on its own.
 
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