I have a 2380 and 2380T. The 2380T has a solid plate in place of the spring. I prefer the cap on the 2380T.
dicodes 2380, dicodes dani extreme and pipeline 2
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I have a 2380 and 2380T. The 2380T has a solid plate in place of the spring. I prefer the cap on the 2380T.
When it's at it's best the spring causes about a 0.1 volt drop @ a decent load. Of coarse the board maintains it's self. So if set for 2.5 v cutoff the battery would be about 2.6 then. The Taifun "the eye" has a nice battery cap without a spring.
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Probably no one will experience this problem with their 2380 but here goes. I decided to stack two 18650's to run my Velocity on it @ 80 watts.
So I add the tube and 2nd battery and made the settings for stacked, got "over volt" error. Just reboot by removing batteries or make the change to the settings while still using one battery. Not much of a problem but just wanted to mention it.
So I add the tube and 2nd battery and made the settings for stacked, got "over volt" error. Just reboot by removing batteries or make the change to the settings while still using one battery. Not much of a problem but just wanted to mention it.
I'm going to quote my own post. The numbers posted above were taken between the battery cap and base of the atomizer and from the bottom of the battery and base of the atomizer. The mod will show loaded and unloaded battery voltage and I always have been disappointed with those figures. An example would be firing a coil at 38 watts and having it show 3.2 volts under load with a quality 4.2 volt (standing) battery.
What I did was put a gold plated brass disc under the spring in the battery cap. This gives me upwards of 3.7 volts under load with a full charged battery with the same coil. I doubt if it's entirely because of the thickness of the brass piece creating more tension on the spring but it's probably part of it. It's pretty thin, real thin.
So because it blocked the vent hole in the battery cap I was going to keep silent about it even though I felt that vent is near worthless. So today I drilled a hole in the center of the shim so I post.
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Well, the dark ages of vaping are arriving for the US. There's this evil entity called the FDA which wants to keep everybody safe for cigarette company profits and cigarette tax bonds. The future's uncertain and the end is always near (no, wait, somebody else already said that, nevermind). Everytime I get another one, I think a rational thought, like, what if all of them fell off a cliff all at once!?!? Then what? Hoping for the best, preparing for the worst.
very nice collection! I thought I had many ( 3 dani extreme, 2 dani ex. v2+, 1 dani box and 1 no6), but I bow to the king !
Ah, if you could please let me know when you're planning to visit that cliff as I'd sure like to be at the bottom to catch one or two?
Great collection! Given how well made those are, I expect they will last you decades.
Yeah, I'm slacking a bit behind here. Just a 2380, two 18650 V2+, a pipeline pro 2+, a 18350 V2+ and a tiny....plus another tube mod with a dicodes TC chip on board...
Great lttle mod. Have a KF Mini V3 on it. Really cool. Only thing is I wish there were some decent 16650s for it..
I have found the Sanyo from illum to be pretty good.
The sanyo's are pretty much the only game in town. But they are ICR and have a big internal resistance so the voltage drop under load is pretty ridiculous. Wish someone would put out a decent IMR 16650 but the demand is probably not great enough..
This is the one I use:
16650 Sanyo UR16650ZTA 4.35V 2500mAh Flat Top
I can get a long work day out of a battery, vaping a KayFun Mini V3 at 12.5 watts.
Jim
16650 Sanyo UR16650ZTA 4.35V 2500mAh Flat Top
I can get a long work day out of a battery, vaping a KayFun Mini V3 at 12.5 watts.
Jim
Them's the boys. Pretty much the only 16650 around as I said. Other brands are rewraps of this. Also need a different charger to get the best out of them at 4.35V...
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