It really helps having multiple RBAs. It's hard to let them soak overnight when you only have 1 or 2.
It's nice having multiple options, even if you're falling back on a trusty carto and tank, or 306 dripper.
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It really helps having multiple RBAs. It's hard to let them soak overnight when you only have 1 or 2.
It's nice having multiple options, even if you're falling back on a trusty carto and tank, or 306 dripper.
Amen to that! I have 3 reduxes, 2 duds, and one drunker. Not a lot, but, thanks to cotton, all perform great and usually there's only one down at a time for maintenance or experiments.
Speaking of different attys, has your killer came in yet?
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Great! I love success stories. I don't think I've ever read a negative review on the IGO-L.
But evidently I've somehow come up with some misconceptions about air hole alignment and air flow in these rba's. (I'm speaking about the air supply being close to the wick here.) All I have is a couple of duds, but I know that the vape gets harsher the farther you go from having the air hole directly in front of the wick on these.
I've also seen some threads on some of the rbas that indicate the coils need to be built out close to the air holes for the best vape, and also some positive threads on the rbas that have center fed air right at the bottom of the coil.
All of which mades me think the air intake needed to be close and directly on the coil.
But I've also seen positive threads on some of the rbas like the igo-l that don't have a real close air supply...even some rbas that have a center wick and still have the air intake from a hole on the side, maximum distance away.
If anyone has any more insight on this, I'd be interested.
Ever since I wound a new coil a few days ago I had problems with early scorching, etc, and I couldn't figure it out until last night when I just adjusted the air hole to point from the other side of the wick and now everything is great again.
Shouldn't make much difference but it sure did. Maybe the airflow needs to he across the positive post more to control heat, or what?
Anyway, I guess the "insight" I gained was to experiment with the air hole alignment first at any sign of heat problems before messing with the wick and coil. Would've saved a lot of head scratching and burnt hits.
Typod on my Celll Phlone using Tapatalk 2
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I've wondered about this: why does it take so long? Water soaks right into a cotton ball, as does juice. And if it takes that long for juice to go from the tank to the coil, how does it keep up with vaping, as the coil is vaporizing the juice directly in contact with it and the cotton has to replenish that juice or suffer dry hits?
I know it's probably one of those things that's counter-intuitive, but it doesn't seem like it would keep up with a decent vaping pace if it takes nearly two days to wick juice from tank to coil.
Yeal, after thinking about it some more, I guess the coil being so close to the cover is what makes the duds so sensitive to alignment. If the hole is past the coil, it just shoots air past the coil, making for a hit that will rip your throat out lol.
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It doesn't take 48 hours to get juice to the coil, but it does take 48 hours for the cotton fibers to fully expand and absorb to perform with it's maximum capillary action. You can vape after a couple hours of soak, my point was longer is better if we have the patience. You are right about it being counter intuitive, we have all squeezed juice onto a dry wick and thought it looks wet *gag*. lol
It doesn't. That's the time for cotton to be fully expanded. But most of that expansion happens very quickly, and if you're not choking the wick, you can go to vaping in a couple of hours.
Edit: Mack beat me to it. I've got the learn to type faster lol.
I'd like some help deciding between hemp and cotton so I'm posting this to the hemp and cotton threads.
Both would be organic and nothing whatsoever added.
It seems like cotton wicks faster and holds more juice for a juicier hit, but burns maybe %30 easier.
Hemp won't burn as easily, but does it wick slower and not soak up a lot of juice?
However, I'd be using it in a bottom coil atomizer, so do I even have to worry about slow wicking or dry hits, in which case, I should chose cotton because it soaks more and gives a juicier hit? Thanks.
Both would be organic and nothing whatsoever added.
It seems like cotton wicks faster and holds more juice for a juicier hit, but burns maybe %30 easier.
Hemp won't burn as easily, but does it wick slower and not soak up a lot of juice?
However, I'd be using it in a bottom coil atomizer, so do I even have to worry about slow wicking or dry hits, in which case, I should chose cotton because it soaks more and gives a juicier hit? Thanks.
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It doesn't. That's the time for cotton to be fully expanded. But most of that expansion happens very quickly, and if you're not choking the wick, you can go to vaping in a couple of hours.
Edit: Mack beat me to it. I've got the learn to type faster lol.
Thank you gentlemen. I get it now. If I could find something that doesn't fall apart so easily, I'm ready to try it. I had zero luck with cotton balls -- I just can't get anything that will stay together for a longer wick that I need for the setup I'm attempting.
Is the Walmart yarn working well for people?
The responce to my question two posts up that I also aked in a hemp thread:
"Most of us that are now on bamboo and or hemp used cotton first, Don't understand all your assumptions on wicking and soaking, on my lab tests I have found nothing faster or holds more than hemp."
Looks like I'm choosing hemp unless otherwise convinced.
"Most of us that are now on bamboo and or hemp used cotton first, Don't understand all your assumptions on wicking and soaking, on my lab tests I have found nothing faster or holds more than hemp."
Looks like I'm choosing hemp unless otherwise convinced.
If you want something stronger try weaved cottons, like yarn, string, twine. I would recommend cheese cloth as it is very strong and made for food. The tighter the weave the longer you should soak a new wick. I use rounds because they are the strongest of the cotton wools and are easy to cut and roll to shape without falling apart like balls/gauze/q-tips.
The cotton rounds I bought, shown in earlier post (post# 267), is so fragile, I couldn't do anything with.
Why Is Cotton Absorbent?
The most effective bath towels are made of 100 percent cotton because cotton is most efficient at absorbing or soaking up water. Cotton is able to absorb up to 27 times its weight in liquid water. Cotton's absorbency is also useful in what is known as "recreational performance apparel"--clothes used in jogging, exercise and sports. Cotton's absorbent properties occur due to a number of reasons, including its specific molecular structure and the structure of water.
Capillary Action
Another reason why cotton works to absorb liquid is "capillary action," where cotton fibers are able draw or suck in water like a straw through the interior of the fiber. Capillary action is present both in the fiber of the cotton plant and cotton fabric. Once drawn in through the fibers, the water is then stored in the interior cell walls.
Structure of Water
Part of the reason that cotton is so absorbent lies in the reaction of the differing molecular structures of cotton and water. Water molecules are made up of one atom of oxygen joined to two atoms of hydrogen. Each oxygen atom has a negative charge, while the hydrogen atoms have a positive charge. This creates a magnetic or "dipolar" attraction that binds the atoms together into a water droplet and also allows water to bond with or attach to any adjacent molecules which contain an opposite charge, such as cotton molecules.
Structure of Cotton
Unlike simpler water molecules, cotton is made up of more complex series of atoms, which are linked into what are called "polymer molecules." These polymer molecules link up in repetitive patterns or chains, creating pure cellulose, a substance which makes cotton absorbent. One reason cellulose makes cotton absorbent is that it contains a negative charge, which helps attract "dipolar" water molecules and absorb them. Another reason is cotton's "hydrophilic properties."
Hydrophilic Properties
The cellulose in cotton has what is referred to in chemistry as "hydrophilic properties". The word "hydrophilic" actually means water loving or water attracting (hydro is the Greek word for water and philic or philia means loving). A hydrophilic molecule, such as those that occur naturally in cotton cellulose, is the exact opposite of a "hydrophobic" or water repelling molecule.
The most effective bath towels are made of 100 percent cotton because cotton is most efficient at absorbing or soaking up water. Cotton is able to absorb up to 27 times its weight in liquid water. Cotton's absorbency is also useful in what is known as "recreational performance apparel"--clothes used in jogging, exercise and sports. Cotton's absorbent properties occur due to a number of reasons, including its specific molecular structure and the structure of water.
Capillary Action
Another reason why cotton works to absorb liquid is "capillary action," where cotton fibers are able draw or suck in water like a straw through the interior of the fiber. Capillary action is present both in the fiber of the cotton plant and cotton fabric. Once drawn in through the fibers, the water is then stored in the interior cell walls.
Structure of Water
Part of the reason that cotton is so absorbent lies in the reaction of the differing molecular structures of cotton and water. Water molecules are made up of one atom of oxygen joined to two atoms of hydrogen. Each oxygen atom has a negative charge, while the hydrogen atoms have a positive charge. This creates a magnetic or "dipolar" attraction that binds the atoms together into a water droplet and also allows water to bond with or attach to any adjacent molecules which contain an opposite charge, such as cotton molecules.
Structure of Cotton
Unlike simpler water molecules, cotton is made up of more complex series of atoms, which are linked into what are called "polymer molecules." These polymer molecules link up in repetitive patterns or chains, creating pure cellulose, a substance which makes cotton absorbent. One reason cellulose makes cotton absorbent is that it contains a negative charge, which helps attract "dipolar" water molecules and absorb them. Another reason is cotton's "hydrophilic properties."
Hydrophilic Properties
The cellulose in cotton has what is referred to in chemistry as "hydrophilic properties". The word "hydrophilic" actually means water loving or water attracting (hydro is the Greek word for water and philic or philia means loving). A hydrophilic molecule, such as those that occur naturally in cotton cellulose, is the exact opposite of a "hydrophobic" or water repelling molecule.
The information i posted was about water and liquid absorbency of cotton both relevant in wicking properties. The only person that can convince you is you. The only way to find what you like is to try different wick materials and see what you prefer.
That info talks about + and - charges of elements making things cling/absorb better, which I don't know if e-liquid has the same properties. FWIW, hemp might have the same affect.
I would try hemp and cotton and maybe a combo of both, but I'm set on either the zero addative cotton cigarette filters I linked or some zero addative organic hemp twine, so I'd rather get a 30ml of some nice organic e-juice for about the cost of whichever I end up not using and wasting.
I would try hemp and cotton and maybe a combo of both, but I'm set on either the zero addative cotton cigarette filters I linked or some zero addative organic hemp twine, so I'd rather get a 30ml of some nice organic e-juice for about the cost of whichever I end up not using and wasting.
So try something and let us know how it works!
For what it's worth I've used several different kinds of cotton with varying degrees of success. I'd be surprised if you find the absolute best wicking material in your first try.
A little off topic I guess, but on my next trip to Michaels, I'm gonna pick up some bamboo yarn and try that.
I use thinner awg rw than most. Vaping 33 awg kanthal, 1.8ohms at 3.2-3.7 volts has been my best results. The heat time response is instant and creates clouds of vapor fast without any burning at all (nor singeing). I have noticed the thicker resistant wires take longer to heat up and tend to burn cotton easier. Thinner resistant wires heat up quicker and cool down just as fast. With organic wicks the name of the game is temperature control.
I also do something I call the side by side wrap when I make my coils. Basically I have noticed the closer the coil wraps the less likely the cotton burns/singes. I literally wrap my coil with all the wraps touching side by side (it will not short).
I also do something I call the side by side wrap when I make my coils. Basically I have noticed the closer the coil wraps the less likely the cotton burns/singes. I literally wrap my coil with all the wraps touching side by side (it will not short).
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