Different Cottons for different wicks

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xMackx

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Cotton isn't doing so well in my Vulcan (did clone) it tastes great for a couple hours then not so good after that. I'm letting it soak but maybe not long enough. I'm anxious for my drunker to get here and see what it will do with cotton.

Yeah did style atties are tougher to cottonize than most designs, the spin-e method has been the only configuration that performs well in my did clone. Something about cup designed atties just work great with cotton so I'm very interested in the drunker.
 

donnah

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It's 28g kanthal.

DSC_0909_zps6877f601.jpg


Can you give me the particulars of the spin-e method again. I remember seeing it somewhere. If it involves dripping though, I'm not too interested. I dripped for about the first 6 months I vaped. A major hassle (for me anyway)

Donna's a good name :D
 
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JD1

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I set up my second diDalike with the spin-E back on the eleventh. I haven't keep track, but I think I can safely say I've put more than 15 ml through it since. The cotton behind the coil is dark amber from the juice, but not a hint of black in sight. The coil itself is black and finally has a little gunk, but it still tastes just fine and I'm not going to touch it until the taste or vapor production goes off.

Folks, if you have a vertical coil atty, vv power, and you haven't tried the spin-e setup yet, you owe it to yourself to at least try it.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...nt-cottons-different-wicks-7.html#post8220059

Edit: I should add that I am dripping--5 to 6 drops at a time, but I think that could be extended to 10 or 11 drops if desired. I haven't tested that though.
 
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adeline

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Thank you for describing it for me, sounds exactly like something I want. The cup style atty in my opinion is one of the best performing designs to me. If you ever do have time to snap a couple pics I'd be interested to see whats under the hood.

Hey Mack -- Instead of continuing to hijack the thread I got pictures of the Drunker up in this thread!
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rebuildable-atomizer-systems/372190-inside-drunker-tank.html

Hope that helps! :)
 

xMackx

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It's 28g kanthal.

DSC_0909_zps6877f601.jpg


Can you give me the particulars of the spin-e method again. I remember seeing it somewhere. If it involves dripping though, I'm not too interested. I dripped for about the first 6 months I vaped. A major hassle (for me anyway)

Donna's a good name :D

Try wrapping your coil with your coil wraps touching side by side(it wont short unless they overlap). For some reason the closer the coil wraps are the less likely they are to burn the wick. Also I would recommend using a needle or anything the right size for the coil you want (like in my tutorial but something wider for a wider coil), this way is a lot easier to make a nice uniform coil and you can leave it in until done mounting.

Now the spin-e coil is very different, it's basically making a really thin coil and having the wick press against the coil rather than being inside. The wick goes down into the tank and is wrapped around the positive post (after coil mounted). It's not a dripping system, even though some like to use it as such. Hope some of this helps, let me know when you experiment!
06_zps2517122a.jpg
 

donnah

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Actually this coil was made with a steinman pin (used in Ortho surgery to pin together bone). I have several sizes. Next time, I'll try making my coils closer together. I have some 32g kanthal coming with my drunker tank. I looooove to make coils LOL

the spin-e method looks interesting... do I really need to drill out the wick and fill holes? That's the only thing thats really putting me off.
 

xMackx

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Actually this coil was made with a steinman pin (used in Ortho surgery to pin together bone). I have several sizes. Next time, I'll try making my coils closer together. I have some 32g kanthal coming with my drunker tank. I looooove to make coils LOL

the spin-e method looks interesting... do I really need to drill out the wick and fill holes? That's the only thing thats really putting me off.

Well if you keep the did clone as is the one wick hole is really small, that's why everyone that tries the spin-e ends up dripping unless the holes are wider it doesn't wick very well. I have actually done quite a few mods to mine, I drilled/bored the wick and fill screw hole out to 3mm. I drilled a secondary air intake hole inline with the other vertical. I replaced the silicone spacer at the base of the positive post with a hard plastic washer (silicone had no support). I also only use 2 of the knurled nuts to keep the coil wraps closer. So you don't need to do any of these things, I just do whatever I think will improve things a bit really.

Remember to tell me about your adventures with your new atty tomorrow!
 

JD1

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.......Actually this coil was made with a steinman pin (used in Ortho surgery to pin together bone)......

OK, you win, but only because I don't have a steinman pin lol. :vapor: I've read that the center post on the dud is a good diameter. Just take off the top two nuts and wrap away.

.........the spin-e method looks interesting... do I really need to drill out the wick and fill holes? That's the only thing thats really putting me off.

I'd suggest setting it up for dripping first to see how you like it, then drill if you think it's worth it. Just remember that it's chrome plate and you only want to drill out the threads or else you'll expose the mystery metal underneath. Also, Mack mentioned that you still need to close the air hole with your thumb and fake puff to prime the wick.

I'm a bit surprised you don't have some mixes that shine so much better when you drip that you're willing to put up with it. But I'm just reminded that we're all have different tastes, likes and dislikes. I vape a lot of 'backy mixes, and some of them have quite a taste change if the juice gets cooked to much or even if I hit them with too much voltage.

Another thing I'd like to mention is the bluegrasslovers method for an ss coil. It wicks really well, produces great vapor, and well worth a try to see if you like it. I first ran across it in this thread: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...261-wick-coil-tips-tricks-11.html#post7007857
 

donnah

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Well if you keep the did clone as is the one wick hole is really small, that's why everyone that tries the spin-e ends up dripping unless the holes are wider it doesn't wick very well. I have actually done quite a few mods to mine, I drilled/bored the wick and fill screw hole out to 3mm. I drilled a secondary air intake hole inline with the other vertical. I replaced the silicone spacer at the base of the positive post with a hard plastic washer (silicone had no support). I also only use 2 of the knurled nuts to keep the coil wraps closer. So you don't need to do any of these things, I just do whatever I think will improve things a bit really.

Remember to tell me about your adventures with your new atty tomorrow!

So you just thread the cotton round piece through the wick hole, wrap it round the center post and then down the fill hole... then wrap a real tiny coil and attach it as shown? That sounds easy enough.

I dripped back a couple years ago when I first started vaping. Back then I had the "cartridges" and got tired of dripping into them so I just dripped directly down into the atty. Once I discovered cartos and then (angels singing) carto tanks... I quit dripping. It was just soooo convenient not to have to carry around a bottle.

Right now my did clone is vaping nicely with a SS mesh wick. In fact it's so nice, I'm having to slow down because I can feel the nic!

Next time I change coils I will try the spin method.
 

xMackx

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So you just thread the cotton round piece through the wick hole, wrap it round the center post and then down the fill hole... then wrap a real tiny coil and attach it as shown? That sounds easy enough.

I dripped back a couple years ago when I first started vaping. Back then I had the "cartridges" and got tired of dripping into them so I just dripped directly down into the atty. Once I discovered cartos and then (angels singing) carto tanks... I quit dripping. It was just soooo convenient not to have to carry around a bottle.

Right now my did clone is vaping nicely with a SS mesh wick. In fact it's so nice, I'm having to slow down because I can feel the nic!

Next time I change coils I will try the spin method.

It's way easier to mount the coil then thread the wick around the positive post, but other than that you got it right. It's an interesting setup, a real fog machine. I alternate between ss mesh and the spin-e with my did clone.
 

JD1

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...... I alternate between ss mesh and the spin-e with my did clone.

I can't seem to solve the juice run back problem with ss. I guess I could try some 500 mesh and and make a solid wick, but I think I'm just going to move away from ss. It's different enough that I understand it's appeal to those folks who like it, but I'm finding that I prefer my reduxes and spin-E setup.
 

xMackx

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I can't seem to solve the juice run back problem with ss. I guess I could try some 500 mesh and and make a solid wick, but I think I'm just going to move away from ss. It's different enough that I understand it's appeal to those folks who like it, but I'm finding that I prefer my reduxes and spin-E setup.


Cotton is my favorite because it works the opposite from silica and ss mesh. Instead of using a material that can handle a thousand degrees, cotton works by controlling the temperature so it never has to handle extreme heating conditions. It's so absorbent that it keeps the coil at perfect vaporizing temperature.
 

JD1

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Cotton is my favorite because it works the opposite from silica and ss mesh. Instead of using a material that can handle a thousand degrees, cotton works by controlling the temperature so it never has to handle extreme heating conditions. It's so absorbent that it keeps the coil at perfect vaporizing temperature.

Thanks for the insight Mack. I'd never thought it through before. My favorite way to vape is two or three puffs chained together, then let it rest a little then repeat. With ss, I have to give a primer puff to allow it to heat up, then by the time I get to the third puff, it's getting too hot to suit me. Tons of vapor though, and I can see where lots of folks would love it, but I seem to prefer a more even temperature from start to finish. With cotton, I don't have to give a primer puff, and the third puff isn't that much hotter than the first.
 

xMackx

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Something i have noticed with changing the wick without changing the coil is I prefer to only do that once. Then next time the coil is gunked up enough for a change. So only once keeps the clean flavor, more than once gunky coil flavor. I really hate dry burning a coil, I have never had a good flavor come from dry burning a gunked up coil no matter the device.
 

VaporMizer

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Something i have noticed with changing the wick without changing the coil is I prefer to only do that once. Then next time the coil is gunked up enough for a change. So only once keeps the clean flavor, more than once gunky coil flavor. I really hate dry burning a coil, I have never had a good flavor come from dry burning a gunked up coil no matter the device.

Hmmm...I remove the old wick and dry burn my coil everyday on my dripping RBA, then I rinse the base and coil with water and dry burn again and put in a new hunk of cotton ball. It tastes good as new (better really). The dry burn gets rid of every bit of gunk. It's a 30GA wire coil and it's well over a month old and still works great. I guess it's probably different with a tank system, though.
 
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JD1

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Hmmm...I remove the old wick and dry burn my coil everyday on my dripping RBA, then I rinse the base and coil with water and dry burn again and put in a new hunk of cotton ball. It tastes good as new (better really). The dry burn gets rid of every bit of gunk. It's a 30GA wire coil and it's well over a month old and still works great. I guess it's probably different with a tank system, though.

My routine is similar. I use short pulses and reduce most of the gunk to ash, then use a couple drops of hydrogen peroxide to flush the ash. Then I pulse it a couple more times to clear the H2O2 (it turns to water with heat) and viola, fresh as a daisy. My coils are still black after cleaning. They look like a new coil that's been vaped until it's black, but no crud yet. The difference in time and heat that it takes to get them completely clean is significant, and not worth it imo.

I started using that method to clean ce2's. Now with the reduxes, it's a breeze. I just take off the head, slide out the old wick, and mount the head on my yj2. Check that there's no shorts, pulse it a few times, hold over a paper towel and drip a few drops of H2O2, turn it upside down, shake and blow through the slots to clear most of the H2O2, turn it back up, pulse it a couple of times to get it dry. Take it off and slide in a new wick, then put it together and test that I didn't cause any shorts. Fill it and set aside for at least a couple of hours to soak.

Whew! Takes almost as long to type as to do it lol. :vapor:
 

Regzzz

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I do recommend 2 things I think are important for anyone rebuilding with cotton.

One is boiling the cotton

None of the cottons we buy were made with vaping in mind so will have residual chemicals from the bleaching process and others that make the material more pliant. I have tried vaping off of non boiled cotton and boiled and boiling does give it a much more absolute clean vape that is noticeable. Also usp means an acceptable purity of a product and is approved for its intended use, for instance some cotton gauze usp may contain antibacterial chemicals we might not want to vape. So I highly recommend boiling any cotton you are going to use.

Here is a site that goes into detail about the different chemicals in cotton products by another member. MyWikkaSite: Cotton Wick Wiki

Two would be always preform a burn test:


This is especially important with cotton twines, yarns, and rope because some companies use a polyester or nylon blend to make it easier to hold the cotton fibers together. I have bought twines that claim 100% cotton on the label to find a burn test confirms synthetic fibers.

How to preform a burn test:

Take a small 3 inch piece of the cotton in question and slowly approach the flame (lighter/candle). As the cotton approaches the flame it shouldn't melt or recoil from the flame. Pure cotton should burn easily with a yellow flame. One of the biggest tell tale signs of its purity is when you blow the flame out the smoke should smell like burnt paper (synthetic fibers will smell plastic like) and the black burnt part should feel soft if pure cotton, if it feels hard and crispy it's an indication of synthetic fibers.

Thank you very much for this information. I now found out why the 100% cotton butcher cord that I try to use tasted awful.. when I burn it with a lighter, not only does it stink like plastic burning but if I burn a 5-6 inches long piece, it will actually drip molted crap... 100% cotton my ash!

Again, thank you for that nice trick! i'll try to find some pads soon and try the experiment again.

Cheers all!
 
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