Thanks Fad! I'll see if I can get it to work by extending the pin per your suggestion. Thanks for the information on the heat sinks too. I think they would be a very good addition to my stash.
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Thanks Fad! I'll see if I can get it to work by extending the pin per your suggestion. Thanks for the information on the heat sinks too. I think they would be a very good addition to my stash.
I've tried having a go at my 25mm Siren with a small flathead screw driver, but not having any success. 3mm screw driver seems too small, 4mm too big, the 3 catches something, but then I have a horrible scraping noise and can't seem to loosen the positive pin. Is there something I'm missing here? Would love a tip or two - a few of you seem to have been able to unscrew the whole thing, and I remember watching a German video of a guy taking his apart, but I haven't been able to reproduce this...
3mm is what I use. Once you get the 510 and insulator out, you should be able to turn the 3mm screwdriver until it goes into the 2 slots meant for loosening the airtube. Not sure what the scrapping noise is. I have 8 of these and all of them came apart in this fashion.
Hmmm, thanks for the rply, I have had trouble with both the tanks. I wish I could see inside it - it almost feels as though I'm ruining the inside somehow - definitely doesn't feel like there's a slot for a flathead. Everyone else's evidence points in the other direction, however...
With my 22s, I notice that whenever I fill my tank with juice above the build chamber, I am more likely to have seeping through the afc. I realize the 25s are a different animal than the 22s, but I would love to know if this makes a difference for you.
The slot is not very deep and I found I was also doing a lot of "scratching and scraping" inside there trying to find the slots with the screwdriver head.
I managed with a worn down electrical screwdriver but too small and it might go inside the threads that hold the 510 pin in place and mess them up, avoid doing that.
I managed with a worn down electrical screwdriver but too small and it might go inside the threads that hold the 510 pin in place and mess them up, avoid doing that.
I've been trying but can't remove the 510 insulator for fear of damaging it.
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I`m not sure if it`s necessary to remove the 510 insulator, but they are difficult to get out.
I have replaced them with rubber grommets anyway as they are not completely liquid-tight and I don`t like drops of juice going into my 510 if it can be avoided,
so just forced them out with a small screwdriver - they didn`t appear to be ruined and I could have replaced them.
It is a risk that must be left to the individual though.
I have replaced them with rubber grommets anyway as they are not completely liquid-tight and I don`t like drops of juice going into my 510 if it can be avoided,
so just forced them out with a small screwdriver - they didn`t appear to be ruined and I could have replaced them.
It is a risk that must be left to the individual though.
I got the SR V4 yesterday. I washed it and put in a PT grommet. Initially put in a 3mm coil but that resulted in too much cotton. Swapped it out for a 2.4mm. You need to not put the wicking into the juice channels. Just lay the wick on top. Ends up being a really nice vape. I like it as much as the Hussar. Have ordered one from FT to see what that is like. The FT one is not a Shenray so will have to see. Would definitely recommend this but I think that you would need to buy the MTL kit for it to bring down the air flow. 3FVape carries one although it is another $9.99.
ShenRay Silver Mouth to Lung MTL Nano Kit for SR V4 RTA
I had the MTL kit but forgot to measure the airhole diameter at the time before I drilled it out.
There`s something in the back of my mind that says it`s a 1.3mm but the spare MTL pin alone is 1.7mm
I`d be inclined to think there`s only 2 different sizes rather than 3 ...but you know what thought did....
Also, I was looking at reducing the airflow in different ways and another possibility is to put a small/fat o-ring around the bottom of the airpin...
via the opened base...maybe as well as a grommet for even tighter restriction ?
It`s a non-invasive and tool-free option...
Although I think that would be rather too tight with a 1.3...but the 1.7 or even the default 3.x mm ?
There`s something in the back of my mind that says it`s a 1.3mm but the spare MTL pin alone is 1.7mm
I`d be inclined to think there`s only 2 different sizes rather than 3 ...but you know what thought did....
Also, I was looking at reducing the airflow in different ways and another possibility is to put a small/fat o-ring around the bottom of the airpin...
via the opened base...maybe as well as a grommet for even tighter restriction ?
It`s a non-invasive and tool-free option...
Although I think that would be rather too tight with a 1.3...but the 1.7 or even the default 3.x mm ?
I had the MTL kit but forgot to measure the airhole diameter at the time before I drilled it out.
There`s something in the back of my mind that says it`s a 1.3mm but the spare MTL pin alone is 1.7mm
I`d be inclined to think there`s only 2 different sizes rather than 3 ...but you know what thought did....
Also, I was looking at reducing the airflow in different ways and another possibility is to put a small/fat o-ring around the bottom of the airpin...
via the opened base...maybe as well as a grommet for even tighter restriction ?
It`s a non-invasive and tool-free option...
Although I think that would be rather too tight with a 1.3...but the 1.7 or even the default 3.x mm ?
Excellent idea! I love the non-invasive upgrades!
Note: the gap you see at the bottom of the airpin is wider on the default, supplied pin and narrower on the smaller bore...
...so potentially easier to partially block off on the smaller diameter pin.
I found the 1.7mm pin quite restrictive though and that in combination with the airflow closed off could well be enough without any fixes.
It is quiet when the airflow is closed right down unlike others I`ve had the misfortune of testing which whistled & whined like nobody`s business.
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I should add that I did try the o-ring around the pin test and while it worked to a degree I couldn`t bear it as I`ve got a phobia about condensate collecting inside bases and making any kind of gurgling or popping sounds if the airpath has even a single drop of juice restricting it - so the test didn`t last long
...so potentially easier to partially block off on the smaller diameter pin.
I found the 1.7mm pin quite restrictive though and that in combination with the airflow closed off could well be enough without any fixes.
It is quiet when the airflow is closed right down unlike others I`ve had the misfortune of testing which whistled & whined like nobody`s business.
~~~~~~~~
I should add that I did try the o-ring around the pin test and while it worked to a degree I couldn`t bear it as I`ve got a phobia about condensate collecting inside bases and making any kind of gurgling or popping sounds if the airpath has even a single drop of juice restricting it - so the test didn`t last long
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I find the airflow more restrictive overall. With my 2.4mm grommet in, I have to open the AFC wide-open to get the correct airflow. On the Hussar, I am less than 1/3 open.
Speaking about airflow I just can't seem to find a MTL tank that has the perfect smoothness of the Siren. Just received the Hussar with the small tank and 510 top today and after a washing gave it a try, it's ok , about on par as the kayfun mini v3 but not the Siren. I went with the stock airtube and will try the 1.7 and 1.3 after this tank is empty.
I agree! I love the Hussar, but I don't like it as much as the Siren. I've got the same juice, my favorite AHL Mango Lassi, in two tanks right now, the Siren & the Hussar. It tastes great in both, but the Siren provides more flavor. Like you, I am using the Micro tank on the Hussar, but I haven't yet installed the smallest airflow pin, so the flavor quotient could improve. I do love the looks of the Hussar with the torpedo cap though. It's a better looking tank than the Siren.
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