Disappointed in CE2? Try this!

[Turbo]

I use vice grips on one end and the tube cutter on the other.
I don't agree that this is just a clear CE2, the tube is bigger and it seems to make a difference, at least for me. I try the CE2 out of the package and still can't get one to work so I end up putting them in tubes (NO PTB) and they perform perfect. I have never used PTB. I tried it but didn't see a noted difference in the wicking. More trouble for me than it's worth. JMO

I also use vice grips and don't care if the upper tube gets dented a little. I do wrap the carto in leather to lessen that and try not to over tighten.

I have to agree that performance improves simply by placing in the syringe. I also notice I 'mow' through juice a lot quicker. I know it's been discussed before but they do; don't know why. It's not the fact of seeing the juice level. I know that I only filled my stocks twice a day and these much, much more.

I do see 'Industrial's point too. While performance improves, I still get dry spots to where I have to tilt/roll the juice, especially when 3/4 empty. PTB would enhance performance like w/ stock cartos but these are different.

 

[br5495]

No way. Doing the mod but not improving the wicking doesn't change anything. If you like it modded better than stock but you haven't really changed anything that will improve the actual performance then what is really better about it? Two PTB strips on the sides of the cup where the wick comes in gives you an actual performance improvement. If you're stating that it is more trouble than it is worth, you haven't actually tried it. It takes about 20 seconds to cut two strips and push them into the modded carto. If you're willing to go through the effort of cutting the tubes and doing the mod but say that adding PTB is more trouble than it is worth is kinda ridiculous.

I have never had a need for PTB, but that's with my juice and the way I use a cartomizer on my batteries. I have tried PTB more than once on the R3 XL's and I could not tell the difference in direct A-B comparisons. I made these tests in original tubes and didn't know which one was what unless I looked inside them afterward.

 

[addisdaddy07]

Ok, I have a small problem with my mod. It's probably nott mod related, but one loop of my coil is getting red after about 3 seconds. I'm wicking fine, just one red coil... Any suggestions?

 

[kj4lxw]

You should visit the "rate the avatar above you" thread!

What is that suppose to mean?

 

[IndustrialAction]

What is that suppose to mean?

It means your avatar is HOTT!

 

[kj4lxw]

Yeah, don't think Santa will bring me one this year though. Anyways, gets back back on TOP-ic.

 

[vapspaz]

I'm glad I'm not the only one that has found just the syringe mod without the PTB works great. I don't know why but it does in fact work better. I have tried the PTB on a standard E2 and it actually made it worse! I think maybe it was cutting off the wicking area next to the cup or something.

And yup kj.... I wish Santa would leave sumthin like that under my tree. lol Damn...

 

[four2109]

omg this is stupid. i apply the smallest amount of pressure and it still spirals -__-. is the blade of the tube cutter suppose to be able to wiggle a little bit on its own?

As mentioned, be sure and remove the label and the GLUE. Do you have the tube sitting between the 2 rollers? Make your cut about 10 mm up so you have enough tube on each side of the blade to balance it on the rollers. Does the blade spin freely? Did you just buy the cutter or is it an old one and maybe rusted? I hold them with my fingers and just make more turns so I'm not sure what's causing your problems.

As for Industrial's point, I ordered CE2's when I saw Stormi's mod. I never used one stock. I just modded one based on this thread and Stormi's credibility. I like the simplicity of it just the way it is. Isn't there a CE2 PTB MOD thread somewhere?

 

[CloudBurst]

Ok, I have a small problem with my mod. It's probably nott mod related, but one loop of my coil is getting red after about 3 seconds. I'm wicking fine, just one red coil... Any suggestions?

I'm not sure I understand what you mean. The coils will get red but usually not after they get juice on them. Mine gunk up too fast with my favorite juice. Explain what you're talking about.

 

[vi3tl2ice]

maybe one of the coil loops is not touching the wick, making it become red while the rest of the coil vaporizes the liquid on the wick

 

[mikecup]

I'm not sure I understand what you mean. The coils will get red but usually not after they get juice on them. Mine gunk up too fast with my favorite juice. Explain what you're talking about.

I have been using the syringe mod now for 2 weeks cutting the wick and using PTB. Its the best I have ever used so far. Few things I have noticed that I have to make sure of. I have to make sure the fold of the PTB is not to tight next to the slit, usually one fold is sufficient with the tail reaching the bottom. If its tight next to the slit it will not allow proper wicking and the coil near the slit will glow red like a dry wick, then I would get a slight burnt taste. Also I have to remove the syringe, run under hot water and then dry burn without the syringe till its white again, I have to do this every other day, then reuse, I have yet to kill one. Vapes like new again. Without the PTB, the stock cart does not wick well for me. Just my 2 cents.

 

[kj4lxw]

Ok, I have a small problem with my mod. It's probably nott mod related, but one loop of my coil is getting red after about 3 seconds. I'm wicking fine, just one red coil... Any suggestions?

Had this happen to me today, here's what I posted in another thread.

I did a dry burn today and it took a good long while. Used my 5v PT and it got so hot the black label on the carto started to shrink from the heat.

During the burn I could only see two "loops" of the coil on either end glow. I just kept burning and burning, lightly blowing on it as it went along. Occassionally I'd stop and GENTLY poke at the area in the middle that was glowing but could not see defined individual coil/wires glowing. This is because there is residue gunked up on them.
The burning heats this stuff up and turns it to ash, but it can hang on for dear life and may need help falling off. Eventually it all burned off and I could see each loop of the coil glowing very well defined and clearly when lit up.
I believe it cleaned up more from the burning than trying to scrape the crap off.

When done the coil should look white, ashen white, and you may not actually be able to see the wires when "cold".

I peeled the black sticker off this carto and has lots of sticky residue not. Stout paper towel or good shop rag that can be thrown away is good to use along with alcohol and a fair amount of elbow grease. But it will turn out to be a nice stainless steel carto when done.

Bear in mind that, as with attys, the carto can "pop", had it happen to a carto last week. No pure guarantees in any of the hardware we use. But I would say that only one popped out of the last 4-5 Es's I have been using.

 

[kj4lxw]

In case anyone is interested here is the whole thread

ce2-r4-m-series-filling-problem

 

[mikecup]

A word of advice, don't dry burn to long with the syringe installed. I burned a nice hole in mine!

 

[br5495]

Had this happen to me today, here's what I posted in another thread.

I did a dry burn today and it took a good long while. Used my 5v PT and it got so hot the black label on the carto started to shrink from the heat.

When done the coil should look white, ashen white, and you may not actually be able to see the wires when "cold".

I peeled the black sticker off this carto and has lots of sticky residue not. Stout paper towel or good shop rag that can be thrown away is good to use along with alcohol and a fair amount of elbow grease. But it will turn out to be a nice stainless steel carto when done.

This kind of thing happens with some of us and the type of juice we use. It's best to brush the ash off as it turns white. A DenTek Easy Brush works well for this. This is what they look like:
Amazon.com: DenTek Easy Brush 10-count, (Pack of 6): Health & Personal Care
The bristles are Nylon, so they will melt if the coil is still hot.

Lighter Fluid works well to remove the glue from the label. So does Goof-Off, Goo Gone, etc.

 

[mikecup]

BR I still like your mini torch method. I have to get me one of those. But I would be concerned about melting that black boot under the cup.

 

[br5495]

BR I still like your mini torch method. I have to get me one of those. But I would be concerned about melting that black boot under the cup.

I try not to burn the black heatshink, but by its nature it can stand a certain amount of heat. But then, it doesn't do much on that part of the cup, so it really doesn't matter. It is there to keep the juice on the wires from getting in the cup.

 

[CloudBurst]

What is it for anyway? I am still using the older revs without it and can't tell a difference. Why did they add it?

 

[br5495]

What is it for anyway? I am still using the older revs without it and can't tell a difference. Why did they add it?

They added it because of poor quality control. Most of the ceramic cups on the later ones are a loose fit on the metal air tube, so they put a Band-Aid (heatshrink tube) there to keep it from leaking. They did that on the bastomizers. Sometimes it works, but not always. Most of the time it is not heated enough to completely seal it to the tube. I usually heat it up a bit more until it is a tight fit.

On the later ones they added another Band-Aid over the first one to keep it from leaking at the wires. I don't think it does much good there and I expect the see later ones without it.

 

[addisdaddy07]

I think next time it empties I will just push that one loop in a little with a jewlers screwdriver and see what happens, thanks for all the info!