I think, somewhat unusually, this thread is heading to my ignore list...
DNA 200 not even close.......
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Ok. So since a competitor came out against evolve they have been my second choice. The software does not work well with the device. On the lay clapton build it is nickel core with nichrome wrap. You can work out hot spots with out an issue I do it often. And so do alot of other people. Why are you so upset that someone doesn't think the device is built well or worth the money? Why are you always defending it. And I can see that you are one of those people that act like you know everything about every devices considering your post the other day about the sx350j problem I was having. At first you never had a problem like that but when you say buzz instead of click all of a sudden you know what I was talking about and the fact a posted a video of it happenening. So man you have your opinion. I have mine. There are a bunch of people with problems with the device and it's functions and you will not stop me from speaking about them... sorry buddy.
It's all good sir, we'll just have to agree to disagree. I think if we had this conversation in person it would be a lot more amicable, as I'm not trying to defend the DNA200 at all, or upset that you dislike it. I have no alliance to any particular board, or manufacturer, I like some of the evolv boards, I like some of the yihi boards, I even like some of the clone boards (SXK with NP).
I will say I am a bit curious how you work out the hot spots in a fused clapton nickel coil without dry burning it. Not that I personally care, because I dislike using nickel wire more than you dislike the DNA200, but it would be interesting for others if you have a solid method that isn't potentially harmful.
Look at that!!!! WE DO AGREE ON SOMETHING!!! LOL... I'm sure it would be more amicable, with no inflection things get misunderstood. I'm the same as you with I don't care what device I use. And I have to say I don't hate the DNA200. Ive been using it as my daily. Just trying to work out the kinks that I'm pretty sure will be fixed in future updates. I'm just stating the problems I'm having with it and the people I see using it at the shops.I will state right now that I'm not sure if this is safe or even if its appropriate its just what I do and have success with. As far as the fused Clapton build you can do a few things and you don't necessarily have to use nickel you can do them with titanium with success as well. With these builds I use n80 as the wrap wire. If your wrap wire is ni200 the current will just run the backside of the coil. You must have something separating the ni200 wraps, in this case it is the n80. So with the Ni200 cores I just run it back in forth above a pen torch never letting it get to the glowing red state were the metal will break down. And then a few brushes across the coil usually take out hot spots. Then I put the coil on the device and get the resistance locked in and put it at 40 watts and 500F. If there are any hot spots they usually show themselves at that point. With Ti its much easier, I just put them in wattage mode and pulse at 5-6 watts again not letting them get to a glowing red state working out hot spots during this process. Then go through the same process of running in temp mode and investigating for hot spots. On either i do not put the wrap wire the whole way to the end of the coil. I do this for 2 reasons. The first is to make sure the energy is only flowing through the metal that I want it running through. Although most people believe it will only run through the wire with the lowest resistance. Which leads me to my next reason, I want a good contact to that core wire, if there is something between the core wire and the post screws obviously you will not get a good connection. The wrap wire is mainly for wicking and what I like to call flavor pockets. I should state that I do not expect these to run without issue and do not base my results of this device on these coils. Although I believe we will be able to run these coils on this devise successfully in the near future. And also with the extra metals thrown into the mix your temperatures will not be accurate.
Enjoyed your conversation about your coil performance on a DNA200. What type of performance of the same coil do you get on non-DNA200 devices. (for comparison purposes). It would seem to me that your coil configuration would not run without issue and have an accurate temperature on any TC device.
Im kinda new to ecf and stumbled upon this thread but I'm not new to vaping I've been vaping for 2 years and I was wandering I have a vs dna200 and it has had a little issue with temp control as well. It don't seem to kick in and out of temp mode it just seems that the preheat and punch only kick in sometimes. It don't matter what ni200 build or wire I put in and I'm using a stro mini. Anybody else had this issue or can anyone help me with this issue?
I've had similar experiences mainly when chain vaping. Seems Preheat will work fine the first puff but then after that it doesn't any longer. I believe it has to do with the device seeing the resistance of the coil and thinking it's reached temp already so doesn't go very much into the Preheat power and just goes directly into Temp Limiting. While it may be limiting the temp at the specified setting it doesn't make for a very consistent vape if your expecting an initial big hit of power. Try letting your device sit for a few minutes in between vapes and see if the preheat seems more consistent.
There is something about that plastic/nylon clip that holds the battery door on the vs that somehow screams "im going to wear out".
I'd be more worried about it if it was an 18650 mod and you HAD to be popping that cover off several times a day. In reality, most owners will probably pop it off once just to look inside, and then not mess with it again until the battery pack wore out months or years later.
Preheat works just as it was designed. If less preheat is needed such as while chain vaping (due to the coil not needing preheat) it throttles down. Preheat is not designed to give a big hit but to bring up the coil temperature more quickly. One only needs to vape while watching the live screen in Device Monitor to see how it works.
Example: Started with cold coil and vaped 3 quick pulls then waited a couple seconds and pulled two more time. First pull shows preheat working to quickly heat coil, second and third pull preheat not needed to quickly reach temperature and forth pull a few seconds later shows preheat working as the coil had cooled a bit. 5th pull quickly done after 4th pull shows again preheat not needed.
Example: Started with cold coil and vaped 3 quick pulls then waited a couple seconds and pulled two more time. First pull shows preheat working to quickly heat coil, second and third pull preheat not needed to quickly reach temperature and forth pull a few seconds later shows preheat working as the coil had cooled a bit. 5th pull quickly done after 4th pull shows again preheat not needed.
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Thats a fair point,didn't think about that.It would also be easy to blow that panel off in the event of a pack failure.Come to think of it,is there vent holes on the vs ?.
Your stating pretty much the same thing I was only your talking about the device design and I was talking about the device performance in consistency in the vaping experience. If Preheats only intended purpose is to "bring up the coil temperature more quickly" then there is a side effect that's required to do that which is more Power (wattage) that would come into play at certain times but not always.
Using a quote from the DNA 200 Datasheet "Because wattage, not temperature controls vapor volume, large vapor volumes can be produced without unnecessarily high temperatures."
So using your example it's easy to see the 1st and 4th pulls show much higher Power (wattage) being applied to the coil initially while pulls 2, 3 & 5 all stayed about 25 watts. And based on the previous quote it's easy to see why there would be more vapor volume produced on the 1st and 4th pulls while 2, 3 & 5 would be producing less vapor.
So yes it's working as designed. But since it doesn't apply the same Power each and every time on the initial pull it doesn't provide the same volume of vapor which is where it lacks consistency in the vaping experience. Leaving it sit a few minutes in between pulls like I suggested earlier would help to provide a more consistent vaping experience.
Coil temp at firing is higher on 2 and 3rd pull and 5th pull was higher to start with so less preheat is needed.
Exactly, which is why less Power (wattage) is used on pulls 2, 3 & 5 and results in less vapor volume produced than on pull 1 & 4.
Less wattage is used because the temp setting has been reached and less wattage is needed to keep temp there. The wattage drops off as temp is reached. Higher wattage would give more vapor but the temp control is adjusting it down (wattage) as the goal is temp maintaining a certain temp and not maintaining a certain wattage (as done in power mode [Kanthal mode/ non-temp mode}).
Example: You are vaping at a set temp and a set wattage in Temp mode. It produces a vape with a certain amount of vapor. Reduce the wattage setting by 75% and see what the difference is. Reduce the wattage only 50% and see what the difference is.
Here is graph with same setting as the first one above but the wattage is 10 watts as opposed to 25 watts... almost no vapor and never reaches temp limit thus wattage stays at 10 watts.
Example: You are vaping at a set temp and a set wattage in Temp mode. It produces a vape with a certain amount of vapor. Reduce the wattage setting by 75% and see what the difference is. Reduce the wattage only 50% and see what the difference is.
Here is graph with same setting as the first one above but the wattage is 10 watts as opposed to 25 watts... almost no vapor and never reaches temp limit thus wattage stays at 10 watts.
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If Preheat was based on Temp of the coil being reached to reduce the wattage to maintain temp it seems that's not likely based on your graph or the graph data is inaccurate.
Again using your graph labeling each puff hottest to coolest (1-5) 1 being hottest 5 being coolest you can see that Preheat power was applied to the coolest #5 on pull one where the coil is presumably at resting temp and resistance and then not again until the second from hottest #2 on pull four. If Preheat was determined based on heat of the coil one wouldn't expect it to apply the additional power to the second from the highest temperature while not applying additional power to 2 other lower (cooler) temperature pulls where the coils resistance should also be lower.
These inconsistencies with the Preheat function not always providing the same vaping experience is why some of us notice it while vaping. And again it probably is working as designed it just wasn't designed to be consistent from a vaping experience perspective, but letting it rest and cool down before vaping again will provide the same or similar Preheat power each pull.
Preheat and punch is adjustable. Set them in rhythm with temp and wattage to get the vape you desire. Nice to have so many ways to tweak your vape. Found my happy place by using Device Monitor and tweaking all aspects available and got that smooth and consistent vape I want. That's all that matters.
Dna200 will be a fine chip after all the problems are worked out, the evolv bug forums is scary long
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