DNA 200 Watt

[Darkly spectr]

What doesn't feel right about it? Im just curious.

Did you try calibrating the mod resistance after you built it?

it just feels weak.

Used the titanium coils on my TFV4. weak vape. 520 is a decent vape.

nickel same thing.

it's just every single temp control coil. tank or rebuildable(though I only really had like twisted 30 gauge)

I am setting the temp up to 500+ degrees to get a vape. it was definitely not nice. I got a x-cube II now. yes I have to fiddle with TCR or resistance to fix the underreading of resistances but atleast I can easily "fix" the weak and on it I am really enjoying it.

on the DNA 200 I just can't get it to work. sure I guess I could also mess with the TCR in escribe but honestly compared to the X-cube it's so much harder to do. I really really wish evolv would just get a on mod menu. I personally think it might be my soldering though as far as I can tell the 510 is soldered pretty well.

with calibrating you mean the atomizer analyzer or case analyzer

 

[ThunderDan]

it just feels weak.

Used the titanium coils on my TFV4. weak vape. 520 is a decent vape.

nickel same thing.

it's just every single temp control coil. tank or rebuildable(though I only really had like twisted 30 gauge)

I am setting the temp up to 500+ degrees to get a vape. it was definitely not nice. I got a x-cube II now. yes I have to fiddle with TCR or resistance to fix the underreading of resistances but atleast I can easily "fix" the weak and on it I am really enjoying it.

on the DNA 200 I just can't get it to work. sure I guess I could also mess with the TCR in escribe but honestly compared to the X-cube it's so much harder to do. I really really wish evolv would just get a on mod menu. I personally think it might be my soldering though as far as I can tell the 510 is soldered pretty well.

with calibrating you mean the atomizer analyzer or case analyzer

Yeah, I meant with the atomizer analyzer. I've never done it personally, but the process is described in one of these dna200 threads. I think you have to short out a RDA with some thick copper or silver wire, then run atomizer analyzer, and I think it should give you the mod resistance if I'm remembering correctly.

 

[Darkly spectr]

Yeah, I meant with the atomizer analyzer. I've never done it personally, but the process is described in one of these dna200 threads. I think you have to short out a RDA with some thick copper or silver wire, then run atomizer analyzer, and I think it should give you the mod resistance if I'm remembering correctly.

and then add that resistance readout to the resistance that the atty has?

 

[ThunderDan]

and then add that resistance readout to the resistance that the atty has?

Then take 80-90% of that resistance, and put that in the mod resistance field in escribe.

The thread I was thinking of wasn't here, it was on the early adapters forum: http://evolvapor.forumchitchat.com/post/mod-resistance-7522239

@VapingBad should be able to describe the process better than I.

 

[Tpat591]

the mod.

 

[Darkly spectr]

Then take 80-90% of that resistance, and put that in the mod resistance field in escribe.

The thread I was thinking of wasn't here, it was on the early adapters forum: http://evolvapor.forumchitchat.com/post/mod-resistance-7522239

@VapingBad should be able to describe the process better than I.

oh man maybe I should try that.

 

[VapingBad]

Then take 80-90% of that resistance, and put that in the mod resistance field in escribe.

The thread I was thinking of wasn't here, it was on the early adapters forum: http://evolvapor.forumchitchat.com/post/mod-resistance-7522239

@VapingBad should be able to describe the process better than I.

It is all in that thread on the Evolv site you linked to, just put the best short you can in the 510 typically a dipper with thick copper in place of the coil, read the raw ohms in atomiser analyser and use 80% of that values as the mod resistance,

 

[Darkly spectr]

It is all in that thread on the Evolv site you linked to, just put the best short you can in the 510 typically a dipper with thick copper in place of the coil, read the raw ohms in atomiser analyser and use 80% of that values as the mod resistance,

so essentially. take the biggest copper wire and connect it.

by short do you mean making the "coil" touch the RDA's side for an actual short or just a "coil" that is so thick its way below what the DNA can handle.

 

[VapingBad]

so essentially. take the biggest copper wire and connect it.

by short do you mean making the "coil" touch the RDA's side for an actual short or just a "coil" that is so thick its way below what the DNA can handle.

You are trying to find the resistance of the mod wiring and 510 so you are trying to short the 510 and just sticking a screw driver in is not good enough. The best would be a copper or brass bolt (M7 0.5 pitch IIRC), but who has those lying about so the next best thing is to put copper wire where the coil would go in an atomiser.

 

[Darkly spectr]

guess I will try it tommorow. the store has some decently thick copper wire. maybe twist some up. I guess I will use my buddha V2. those massive postholes will help alot.

 

[dwcraig1]

As seen in my live view I pretty pretty much vapes like any wire (it's Ti) that's 26 gauge, 2.7 mm id and about 8 wraps. I almost never hit TP and when I do I know it's time to clean the coil or some other problem. Live view has really helped me get my wicking right. Not right and it hits TP and the watts drop (of coarse). I'm using a curve that's about halfway between SSV and Steamengine's.

Oh, with 35 watt preheat though.
Vapecige with Hotcig GS2-22

 

[Darkly spectr]

well just shoved what I think is pretty much 18 gauge wire in my doge V2

mod reads it out as shorted.

ran atomizer analyzer and it reads a 0.016 reading.

so -90% is 0.0144 I guess I will put that in my mod resistance section. hopefully it will fix mah vape.

edit: I added the value and now the atomizer analyzer is just "?"

I guess that is good.

 

[Darkly spectr]

Aaand it fixed nothing pretty much.

yes it changed the ohm readout. it actually now reads out pretty much exactly as the X-cube II.

but still weak vape. I am using the nickel coils on the herakles.

I have it set to 550 degrees fahrenheit. weak vape. like I can literally vape and shove the tip of my tongue right on the drip tip and it feels cool. not warm at all.

I also doubt 550 degrees on a vertical coil with wide open airflow only need like 23-25 watts while taking a drag.

hell even 600 degrees is pretty "eh". I can atleast feel the vapor hitting. it needs 40 watts to maintain temperature.

I am sorry but 600 degrees on a parallel (if I remember right) dual vertical coil at 600 degrees fahrenheit only hovering around 40 degrees while on wide open airflow sounds way underpowered.

 

[dwcraig1]

well just shoved what I think is pretty much 18 gauge wire in my doge V2

mod reads it out as shorted.

ran atomizer analyzer and it reads a 0.016 reading.

so -90% is 0.0144 I guess I will put that in my mod resistance section. hopefully it will fix mah vape.

edit: I added the value and now the atomizer analyzer is just "?"

I guess that is good.

Your figure is very good, better than any of the three of mine, look elsewhere for what it is that your looking for.

 

[dwcraig1]

Aaand it fixed nothing pretty much.

yes it changed the ohm readout. it actually now reads out pretty much exactly as the X-cube II.

but still weak vape. I am using the nickel coils on the herakles.

I have it set to 550 degrees fahrenheit. weak vape. like I can literally vape and shove the tip of my tongue right on the drip tip and it feels cool. not warm at all.

I also doubt 550 degrees on a vertical coil with wide open airflow only need like 23-25 watts while taking a drag.

hell even 600 degrees is pretty "eh". I can atleast feel the vapor hitting. it needs 40 watts to maintain temperature.

I am sorry but 600 degrees on a parallel (if I remember right) dual vertical coil at 600 degrees fahrenheit only hovering around 40 degrees while on wide open airflow sounds way underpowered.

Over in the Early Adopter Forum SSV listed a zip file with his Ti CSV , just use search for SSV. Try that, you can always change it easily if you don't like it.
Here: http://evolvapor.forumchitchat.com/file?id=2394916

 

[Vlad1]

Aaand it fixed nothing pretty much.

yes it changed the ohm readout. it actually now reads out pretty much exactly as the X-cube II.

but still weak vape. I am using the nickel coils on the herakles.

I have it set to 550 degrees fahrenheit. weak vape. like I can literally vape and shove the tip of my tongue right on the drip tip and it feels cool. not warm at all.

I also doubt 550 degrees on a vertical coil with wide open airflow only need like 23-25 watts while taking a drag.

hell even 600 degrees is pretty "eh". I can atleast feel the vapor hitting. it needs 40 watts to maintain temperature.

I am sorry but 600 degrees on a parallel (if I remember right) dual vertical coil at 600 degrees fahrenheit only hovering around 40 degrees while on wide open airflow sounds way underpowered.

You might try just a simple single coil build. Then upload some screen captures of of Escribe > Device monitor, charting Cold Ohms, Live Ohms, Temperature, Power & Voltage with your exact coil type size and gauge and perhaps it'll show the culprit. It's possible you may just have a faulty board, I've seen a couple in the last few days that components were missing from the boards.

 

[Vlad1]

Over in the Early Adopter Forum SSV listed a zip file with his Ti CSV , just use search for SSV. Try that, you can always change it easily if you don't like it.
Here: http://evolvapor.forumchitchat.com/file?id=2394916

Isn't the SSV .csv for Ti? Thought Dark Spectr was saying he was using ni200? Perhaps I'm missing part of the conversation idk.

 

[Darkly spectr]

Over in the Early Adopter Forum SSV listed a zip file with his Ti CSV , just use search for SSV. Try that, you can always change it easily if you don't like it.

but this is using nickel wire. I mean nickel should work perfectly out of the box. titanium and stainless steel are separate things but I am having major issues with nickel.

like I am not going crazy right? should a 0.21 ohm tank coil which is like a dual parallel 10 wrap nickel coil at 600 degrees feel "eh" in terms of heat and flavor.

I remember my vaporshark having issues raising the temperature to 480-490 at 40 watts but apparently now with the same coil and tank 40 watts is enough to keep it stable at 600?

 

[dwcraig1]

but this is using nickel wire. I mean nickel should work perfectly out of the box. titanium and stainless steel are separate things but I am having major issues with nickel.

like I am not going crazy right? should a 0.21 ohm tank coil which is like a dual parallel 10 wrap nickel coil at 600 degrees feel "eh" in terms of heat and flavor.

I remember my vaporshark having issues raising the temperature to 480-490 at 40 watts but apparently now with the same coil and tank 40 watts is enough to keep it stable at 600?

Sorry, still asleep and blind I guess...LOL
Do Vlad1's suggestion, maybe that will show something.
BTW, what kind of tank are you using anyway? Does it vape OK @ 40 watts with Kanthal?

 

[Darkly spectr]

Sorry, still asleep and blind I guess...LOL
Do Vlad1's suggestion, maybe that will show something.
BTW, what kind of tank are you using anyway?

sense herakles with the ni200 coils. I tried the nickel and titanium(with the proper CVS ofcourse) coils for the TFV4 and it was the exact same thing. extremely weak vape even at max settings. though if I remembered right titanium performed a little bit better.