DNA 200 Watt
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I think it needs to go over 2 Ω to throw up the "ohms too high "error". Use atomizer analyzer in EScribe firing it to see what your resistance is during firing. Or live view.
Looks real good to me, hey spit back at it.Well I still hate these coils, but seems to work OK, didn't quite get up to my set temp, but I'm sure they would if I threw more watts at them, it was a warmish vape:
Gah, I hate this coil, moutful of juice, spitback is fierce on this one.
Oh god, I think its making me sick. I need to stop vaping this coil, but I want to use the rest of the juice in the tank up.
That's really weird. atomizer analyzer is reading 0.622 (as high as .70) ohms but the screen is still reading ohms too high. Could this be something weird going on with the stainless steel coil?
That is odd. I just picked up a Crown today, have the .25 coil in it right now, but did not notice any issues with that one, and its SS as well.
Maybe try turning the temperature to off if you haven't done so?
I just did that. This is not happening on my other DNA200. I'm only noticing it saying ohms too high if I have my wattage at 60. At 55 it isn't giving the ohms too high message. I tried locking the ohms on a room temperature coil (realizing this probably isn't necessary with it out of TC) and it is still jumping around. Going to throw my kanthal TFV4 quad on there and see if it does this also.
Here's a series of posts I made in the VT200 thread re: the chip and preheat settings, haven't seen it discussed here but if it's all been covered and I'm being a jackass I'm all ears lol
(Post 1)
Just another thing I thought I'd mention...
Since changing the mod resistance from 0 to .0045, I've had no coil gunking at all @ 420F. (preheat set to 200w but it never uses more than 90)
This could be just because the temp it's heating to is lower b/c when no mod resistance was set, it assumed all resistance was due to the coil and heated until .08166 ohms of resistance were added to the original .07 of the coil (194.444*.006*.07=.08166) but now it knows to only heat until .07628 ohms are added. (194.444*.006*.0655=.07628)
Previously it looks like it was heating to 207.79+21.11 = 228.89C = around 444F (.08166/(.006*.0655)= 207.79, assuming all resistance comes from the coil and the resistivity coefficient of temperature for the mod is 0)
But even when I turn the mod up to 450 now it doesn't gunk as much as it did before, so it appears to have done more than this? Confused
Maybe I've just been keeping the coils wetter, idk. Spitting seems to be reduced as well too though. (went from very noticeable to completely gone) The only thing I can think of to explain this is that the mod's preheat algorithm won't allow a coil's temperature to rise beyond a given rate, either because of battery limitations or intentional programming. This would also explain why the preheat never fires more than 90w even set to 200w.
(Post 2)
Just checked the battery limitation theory and it's probably not that because even with my recharge set to maximize recharges w/ voltage being 3x4.1v, it should be able to achieve about 175 watts
I realize that it's not possible to achieve the max current flow instantly but given the relatively even ramp down in current even before the coil is heated to the desired temp, I'm starting to think the chip has a programed rate that it won't let the coil heat faster than.
And it seems to be JUST high enough to heat 50/50 juice without spitting, as when I didn't have the mod resistance set and it heated faster there was a fair amount. Really interesting if this is actually what's going on and it's not just a huge coincidence, really shows the lengths evolv goes to in r&d
(Post 3)
When I get back from class I'll try setting the preheat punch higher and getting it to spit, but if so it's looking like the preheat punch option would ideally be used to raise the maximum rate the coil temperature can rise in order to let you heat higher VG juices faster, and is set to 5 by default as that's the lowest rate that the thinnest commonly used juices can heat at without the differential between the coil and juice being too high and causing spitting.
If this were true I'd guess a punch setting of 1 would only allow a heating rate fast enough to not cause spitting with 100 percent vg, and a setting of ten would do the same with a 100 percent vg juice
This would explain why the people itt who had previously changed the setting didn't notice a difference, as 1) this would mean the difference between a setting of 1 and 10 is relatively small, probably enough to be unnoticeable without real-time heating outputs or a physical tell (like spitting) and 2) all the people I saw who tested had their preheat power significantly below 200w, so it wouldn't have mattered anyway. (if a heating rate of x is allowed but it needs y watts to heat at that rate and y is less than the amount needed to heat at rate x, it won't heat any faster than allowed by y)
Another thing I'll be doing later to test this is building stupidly big coils (20+ wrap 26g duals) and seeing if the preheat wattage rises above what it's been with at with my dual 14 wraps.
(Post 1)
Just another thing I thought I'd mention...
Since changing the mod resistance from 0 to .0045, I've had no coil gunking at all @ 420F. (preheat set to 200w but it never uses more than 90)
This could be just because the temp it's heating to is lower b/c when no mod resistance was set, it assumed all resistance was due to the coil and heated until .08166 ohms of resistance were added to the original .07 of the coil (194.444*.006*.07=.08166) but now it knows to only heat until .07628 ohms are added. (194.444*.006*.0655=.07628)
Previously it looks like it was heating to 207.79+21.11 = 228.89C = around 444F (.08166/(.006*.0655)= 207.79, assuming all resistance comes from the coil and the resistivity coefficient of temperature for the mod is 0)
But even when I turn the mod up to 450 now it doesn't gunk as much as it did before, so it appears to have done more than this? Confused
Maybe I've just been keeping the coils wetter, idk. Spitting seems to be reduced as well too though. (went from very noticeable to completely gone) The only thing I can think of to explain this is that the mod's preheat algorithm won't allow a coil's temperature to rise beyond a given rate, either because of battery limitations or intentional programming. This would also explain why the preheat never fires more than 90w even set to 200w.
(Post 2)
Just checked the battery limitation theory and it's probably not that because even with my recharge set to maximize recharges w/ voltage being 3x4.1v, it should be able to achieve about 175 watts
I realize that it's not possible to achieve the max current flow instantly but given the relatively even ramp down in current even before the coil is heated to the desired temp, I'm starting to think the chip has a programed rate that it won't let the coil heat faster than.
And it seems to be JUST high enough to heat 50/50 juice without spitting, as when I didn't have the mod resistance set and it heated faster there was a fair amount. Really interesting if this is actually what's going on and it's not just a huge coincidence, really shows the lengths evolv goes to in r&d
(Post 3)
When I get back from class I'll try setting the preheat punch higher and getting it to spit, but if so it's looking like the preheat punch option would ideally be used to raise the maximum rate the coil temperature can rise in order to let you heat higher VG juices faster, and is set to 5 by default as that's the lowest rate that the thinnest commonly used juices can heat at without the differential between the coil and juice being too high and causing spitting.
If this were true I'd guess a punch setting of 1 would only allow a heating rate fast enough to not cause spitting with 100 percent vg, and a setting of ten would do the same with a 100 percent vg juice
This would explain why the people itt who had previously changed the setting didn't notice a difference, as 1) this would mean the difference between a setting of 1 and 10 is relatively small, probably enough to be unnoticeable without real-time heating outputs or a physical tell (like spitting) and 2) all the people I saw who tested had their preheat power significantly below 200w, so it wouldn't have mattered anyway. (if a heating rate of x is allowed but it needs y watts to heat at that rate and y is less than the amount needed to heat at rate x, it won't heat any faster than allowed by y)
Another thing I'll be doing later to test this is building stupidly big coils (20+ wrap 26g duals) and seeing if the preheat wattage rises above what it's been with at with my dual 14 wraps.
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Did u change the ohm lock value at all. Not even sure if it would affect it but worth a shot. And double check ur profile it might be locked in escribe.
Transducer, yes heat producingCan anyone verify for me what this component is called on the DNA200 board? Are they heat producing components?
Inductor , mine get warm when vaping if I put my finger on any one of the two.Can anyone verify for me what this component is called on the DNA200 board? Are they heat producing components?
Thanks, mine came unsoldered in my dna40 build even though I had the chip mounted to a sled. Whether transducer or Inductor from now on when I build with an Evolv
chip I will be adding thermal pads to these to prevent them from detaching.
Has anyone here ordered a DNA200 kit from Nonameboxmods. I just found them and want to research and see if I can fit a maxamps lipo in one of his kits
chip I will be adding thermal pads to these to prevent them from detaching.
Has anyone here ordered a DNA200 kit from Nonameboxmods. I just found them and want to research and see if I can fit a maxamps lipo in one of his kits
How'd it come unsoldered from the board? I don't think it's necessary to heat sink evolv's boards, inductors. They get warm, maybe close to hot, depending on your wattage and duration of your draw. Evolv don't sink em from the factory so I don't think you really need to use a thermal pad or grease for a heat sink.
I haven't seen any reviews on the noname box, but did see the guy who sells the kit post a vid on YouTube. If you got the tools and a steady hand should come out good. I guess he leaves the battery choosing to the customer.
Not sure how it came unsoldered I dont remember dropping it but if that was the case then by adding thermal pad would eliminate any space between that component and the box & sled
which should prevent it from ever happening again, this was my primary reasoning for using thermal pad rather than the heat but I asked cause I thought it couldnt hurt using thermal pad
if it is indeed a heat producing component. This may not be neccessary If I go with the DNA200 build though.
Trying to decide between the Hammond 1590 B & G enclosure. It looks like Militiamods uses a 1590G type enclosure and he uses the maxamps battery however he also uses hot glue.
Im trying to figure out if I can use the maxamps battery in the smaller 1590G enclosure and still use the brass standoffs included in the kit that way I dont have to use hot glue.
Does anyone know of any other good DNA200 DIY enclosures?
which should prevent it from ever happening again, this was my primary reasoning for using thermal pad rather than the heat but I asked cause I thought it couldnt hurt using thermal pad
if it is indeed a heat producing component. This may not be neccessary If I go with the DNA200 build though.
Trying to decide between the Hammond 1590 B & G enclosure. It looks like Militiamods uses a 1590G type enclosure and he uses the maxamps battery however he also uses hot glue.
Im trying to figure out if I can use the maxamps battery in the smaller 1590G enclosure and still use the brass standoffs included in the kit that way I dont have to use hot glue.
Does anyone know of any other good DNA200 DIY enclosures?
Funny you ask. I dunno lol. I never let it get below half on the battery, I'm charge happy. But I'd say from the time it takes to get from full to half, about 1 hour to 1.5 hours at 60 watts, 3 second pulls, about every 5 -10 min.
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