DNA 200 Watt

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Maverik_X

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From my understanding options can probably include LiPo (3s), LifePro4 (3s), 12 volt power supply (no batteries installed) and 3 good 18650's.

From a vendor's web site:

Input voltage requirement 9-12.6vdc
Input current requirement 23A
Output voltage 9vdc
Max Output current 50A continuous (55A instantaneous)
batteries supported: 3s Lipo – 3S LifePO4 – External Power Supply, and Evolv engineers speculate that 3 high quality 18650s should work.
Thanks for the feedback big help do you know when evolv will release this unit? I really wanna get the VS dna200 during shark week when they have their annual shark week promomotion sale. thank you in advance.
 

retird

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Thanks for the feedback big help do you know when evolv will release this unit? I really wanna get the VS dna200 during shark week when they have their annual shark week promomotion sale. thank you in advance.

Haven't heard yet when they will be released...
 
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TheotherSteveS

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[edit] there also can literally be a change in the size of the electrolyte molecules based on what molecules are being created/destroyed in the reactions. You might scoff at the idea of this having a visible effect but think about rust. The change in size between iron and iron oxide molecules is large enough to cause a significant change in size of the rusted metal vs the raw iron.

errrr...not quite! This is due to the change in density of the element (iron) compared to the compound (iron oxide). it is true that molecular iron oxide is 'bigger' than atomic iron but the reason the oxide expands is because it is not compoatible withg the latticial interactions forme by iron in the reduced (non-oxidised) state. Bottom line is they are completely different in almost every way so one doesnt look like the other...maybe this is just semantics but thought id chip in!
 
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Mooch

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    errrr...not quite! This is due to the change in density of the element (iron) compared to the compound (iron oxide). it is true that molecular iron oxide is 'bigger' than atomic iron but the reason the oxide expands is because it is not compoatible withg the latticial interactions forme by iron in the reduced (non-oxidised) state. Bottom line is they are completely different in almost every way so one doesnt look like the other...maybe this is just semantics but thought id chip in!

    Ahhh, OK...so while a particular quantity of iron converted to iron oxide would take up more room, it's due more to the way the iron oxide molecules arrange themselves rather than the actual increase in the bulk of the molecules themselves?
     

    Yozhik

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    Looked at Phil's internal shots of the Opus 200 on tasteyourjuice.com.

    Taste Your Juice | NEW IN THE QUEUE – THE OPUS 200 – 6/17/15

    From the photos, I'm not keen on the LiPo protection. The reason I say this is that the 510 positive pin is right up against the end of the LiPo pack. On my Turnigy batteries, that's just a plastic white film on the end. It also doesn't look the battery is secured in any way to prevent travel in that direction, except maybe sticky tape. So if this mod were dropped hard onto the 510 end, that pin looks like it could travel right into the LiPo pack.

    Then again, maybe there's something not shown in the photos (e.g., a hard plastic separator built into the cover to prevent the above scenario), but without knowing for sure I'd look at other DNA 200 products before buying this one.
     
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    TheotherSteveS

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    Ahhh, OK...so while a particular quantity of iron converted to iron oxide would take up more room, it's due more to the way the iron oxide molecules arrange themselves rather than the actual increase in the bulk of the molecules themselves?
    It is really. Think of carbon (say as diamond) and then think of taking a bunch of carbon atoms, adding a bit of hydrogen to get polystyrene...lol!!
     
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    BlueridgeDog

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    The discussion of how bad you can make things with a small coil and 200 watts seems to miss the point that it is designed for pushing the atomizer tech and builds a bit. If you over power your atomizer you get crap. My builds start to suck at 35 watts but are great at 20. Would I fire them at 200 and think "wow this device sucks" or put another way would I turn stoopid just because I bought a new mod? I have been theorizing with folks off list as to how you could build for this new power and there are options that may give great a great vape.

    There are hundreds of examples where we have more power than we need, and manage the power intellectually. Do you fry eggs on high, drive you car with the accelerator pressed to the floor, run your AC at max, play your television as loud as it will go etc? No, we all know power modulation and have to practice it every day. Saying that it is a downside to have more power than you currently have a method of utilizing makes no sense.
     

    ozen

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    Does the 200 auto sense Ni200 as the 40 does or do you have to select it?
    Can you temporally turn off temp limiting for Ni200 easily like on the 40? (essential for pulsing new builds on gennies)

    Sorry if these have been answered and I missed it, I have read the whole thread.
    If not mistaken, it will auto sense Ni200 like the 40's.
     
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    USMCotaku

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    I hope you realise this is bad practice. In any case, everyone admitted in the video that vaping even at 80W was too warm, 200W is just silly. Manufacturers should say no to stupidity, before some regulating body does it for them.
    Vaping at 80 watts is too warm if you do a build suitable for a 50 watt device, but as I said before, I have a build that can do 200+ watts and not get too hot (this is NOT the first device to give a true 200 watts, look at the variant on a scope...the newest update goes over 300, this is just the first one that will be reasonably affordable to the masses). As I said before, don't give the gear a bad wrap due to user error. It wasn't that they were inexperienced with the particular mod.... They were inexperienced with high power vaping in general. Sure, most people are similarly inexperienced with high powered devices, but people of average intelligence will do at least a little research and questioning before attempting to build on a new device, you see it here all the time.
     

    retird

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    Does the 200 auto sense Ni200 as the 40 does or do you have to select it?
    Can you temporally turn off temp limiting for Ni200 easily like on the 40? (essential for pulsing new builds on gennies)

    Sorry if these have been answered and I missed it, I have read the whole thread.

    Same as the DNA40.... you can auto sense and turn off. You can also add your custom TCR's in the software (as beta is currently configured) for other wires and upload.
     
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    VapingBad

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    Same as the DNA40.... you can auto sense and turn off. You can also add your custom TCR's in the software (as beta is currently configured) for other wires and upload.
    Thanks, I was just recoiling an Origenny on a DNA40 and thinking I could be using much thicker wire on the DNA200 than the twisted 34 AWG I have had to use since Oct. Also hoping turning off TL so PH was easy as PH is a coil popper if you have nay shorts. I would even be able to use ribbon on dual 3 mm wicks :D
     
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