Can you take screen shot of the device monitor while its acting up
DNA 200 Watt
- Thread starter MegaVap
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I would like to see a screen shot of your temperatures in wattage mode.
Set Temperature> Research> Enter Temperature Monitoring Mode
check off Power, Temperature and Live ohms
(Don't forget to set an appropriate wattage)
Set Temperature> Research> Enter Temperature Monitoring Mode
check off Power, Temperature and Live ohms
(Don't forget to set an appropriate wattage)
I have a few DNA200 mods and Ni200 and Ti1 work flawlessly in TC. I have however had issues using UD 316 SS in TC. I've just got to the point where I run SS in power mode (really I've sort of given up on it). I use Billow V2's and Bellus RTA'S, both are dual coil. I'm not sure if I'm not dry burning/ working out hot spots enough. I've even wondered if the DNA200 mods just don't like SS in TC because of the very low TCR. I've been building coils for years and the only problem I'm having in TC is with the UD 316 SS. Like I said I've sort of given up on it.
Cheers,
Steve
Cheers,
Steve
316/317 are a PITA, especially if using dual-coils which makes them half as accurate. If you want to use SS, then 430 is the way to go. I find it highly accurate on my DNA-200 using the steam-engine curve. I tested it with a thermocouple and it never deviated more than 2 or 3 degrees.
I've actually been looking at getting some 430 because of it's increased TCR combined with the fact of 316 being a PITA in TC (at least for me). I've also thought using dual coil attys isn't helping. Thanks for confirming what I've already been leaning towards. I actually don't mind using Ni200 or Ti1 for TC though.
It acts up with titanium as well. I have, however, had some problems with the Bellus as well (ti coil). Vaping great at 60w when first attached. Set it down and pick it up after an hour and the vape is very anemic. Refinement I guess, but very extreme. I gotta say that I prefer the Reuleaux rx200 to the Reuleaux DNA 200.
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I'll have to do that next week. Getting up ridiculously early to fly to a gig tomorrow so I've got to get some sleep.
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I know that there are numerous DNA200 devices out there with various 510 connectors. Evolv designed a 510 connector, as you know, and used it in the reference devices. It was said that at some point they may be available. For the modders and anybody interested I saw them available here ( they may be available elsewhere too but have not ran across them):
Evolv 510 Connector | Protovapor.com
I have used two since July and loving them. Designed like no other as of now. (wiggles budget hands as Grimm does)...
Evolv 510 Connector | Protovapor.com
I have used two since July and loving them. Designed like no other as of now. (wiggles budget hands as Grimm does)...
so last night I was able to shoe horn in a true 1100 mAh pack into my Hcigar Vt200.
It required a dremel to grind down the tabs inside the battery compartment side, and is still a really tight fit, but I should get some good life out of it
It required a dremel to grind down the tabs inside the battery compartment side, and is still a really tight fit, but I should get some good life out of it
Good for you....enjoy....haven't had much time to do any modding lately but want to build a DNA200...
what prompted doing this was my original vt200 died (with about a weeks use), screen said warranty service....so I brought it back to the b&m, and his supplier swapped it......with a used, scratched up mod, with a fubar battery that was out of balance and couldn't be recovered, even with an external balance charger....and I didn't feel like dealing with that supplier again (it had already taken over a month just to get this replacement).Good for you....enjoy....haven't had much time to do any modding lately but want to build a DNA200...
the only two batteries I could find local that would fit was this one that required modding, or a smaller 800 mah......so out the dremel came
thanks,Sad to hear your trouble but happy you worked through it.... enjoy....
you probably remember how much I have wanted a dna200 since they came out
never did get one of thoseYep, and remember how much you wanted a DNA40 too (back in the day).....
Well I am kinda enjoying ni200 TC on my herakles plus and playboy vixen tank.
those captain TC(ni200 clapton) heads are pretty great. and props to playboy for having the coil actually be spot on 0,3 ohms.
and eh stainless steel. meh. Every single tank with stainless steel coils for me has been ..... TC(in my opinion way off) or not. crown tank, hated it. herakles plus with SS coils, hated it. I love the kanthal coils in the herakles plus but the SS have such lack luster flavor.
those captain TC(ni200 clapton) heads are pretty great. and props to playboy for having the coil actually be spot on 0,3 ohms.
and eh stainless steel. meh. Every single tank with stainless steel coils for me has been ..... TC(in my opinion way off) or not. crown tank, hated it. herakles plus with SS coils, hated it. I love the kanthal coils in the herakles plus but the SS have such lack luster flavor.
I settled in with a couple Aspire tanks... one for Ni200 and one for Kanthal... suits me fine....just peachy on a DNA40 or 200....
You either have a defective unit or a build with loose connections. I was building some today and noticed both my 317L and Ti builds were not at the proper resistance. I checked my connections and they were tight. So I opened up atomizer analyser and wiggled the coils. Sure enough the resistance was jumping all over the place. In other words, it was user error and a bad build. Even though the coils seemed tight and I had torqued the screwdriver, it wasn't enough.
So I went ahead and swapped those 26 gauge builds out for a 24 gauge. I don't like using such low res wire, but it does seem to hold more securely in my velocity style deck.
Seems the Wismec provided mod resistance of .003 is way off on my device. I don't have a copper screw but ran the atomizer analyzer with a brass screw and a silver plated screw. .036 with brass and .026 with silver. Set the mod resistance to .022 as the water test and the cotton burn test seemed to indicate that that's what's correct. My Bellus now behaves how I expect it to. Seems high though, right, which might mean bad wiring? What have you guys set your mod resistance to and what were the results from the atomizer analyzer?
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I left mine at .003 and it's working fine in TC using Ni200. Yours does seem a bit high. Here's a link where they are talking this very subject.
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