DNA 200 Watt

[BlueridgeDog]

Definitely. It looked like jelly. I guess condensation and liquid drops found their way through the 4 holes around the connector to slowly seep into the threads. Still I can't be 100% sure if it was just that, the solder joint or a combination of both.

Thanks for the clarification. I had one board do what yours did, but did not look at the 510 to body connection as it ohmed out solid with a meter. I think that I will build a ground wire into future mods. They really seem to have issues with ground path.

As an aside...this is also the reason my best working mod with a 200 is in a plastic case and has a dedicated ground wire.

 

[dwcraig1]

Definitely. It looked like jelly. I guess condensation and liquid drops found their way through the 4 holes around the connector to slowly seep into the threads. Still I can't be 100% sure if it was just that, the solder joint or a combination of both.

What I know is that today, after 22h of use (and 5 hour sleep), the resistance still reads 0.31

Regards
Tony

Would Noalox or similar be useful the keep the connection good between the 510 body and case?
Or is something like that used already?

 

[Scy123]

Speaking of a proper curve for SS 316L, i've just tried the DJaquith V4 csv file, and i can confirm it works perfect.
Setting my tcr to 0.00092, i had to set my temperature as high as 550F in order to get a good warm vape. Now with the Jaquith file, i have it set to 420F and getting the best results on SS 316L since i started using it.

I am having similar problems with steam engine cvs file. Where can I get a hold of this Jaquith file?

Edit - Nevermind I found it on google. Thanks anyways.
And yes it does work much better.

 

[3alouka]

I am having similar problems with steam engine cvs file. Where can I get a hold of this Jaquith file?

Edit - Nevermind I found it on google. Thanks anyways.
And yes it does work much better.

I should have included the file, so here is where i got it from if anyone else would like to try it:
View Single Post - SS316L Help - DNA 200 Early Adopters Forum

 

[nic_fix]

these american companies in this industry tend to have outstanding cs. it seems not only are some chinese companies 10,000 miles away but they are trying not to be contacted. shame on them. i have nothing against chinese people at all. their culture is just different than ours. on the other hand i find many small american b&m shops do not give a poop about the customer either. so it certainly is not just limited to the chinese. it just so happens that vs,evolv are totally legit companies. more than legit in fact. they take care of you. i would really like to just praise those two companies. i also found hana super cool. i know others did not. i showed up at their door multiple times so they know me by face. probably a different story there.

i was wondering is steve the tech at evolv? i have talked to him a lot. i was not aware if he is their main guy. if so that is even more amazing he answers his phone.

you guys are lucky you can trouble shoot this stuff. i could too but now my body has failed. i used to do all kinds of electronic projects. anyone old enough to remember heath-kit?

 

[tchavei]

Would Noalox or similar be useful the keep the connection good between the 510 body and case?
Or is something like that used already?

Don't really know. Noalex isn't used much (if at all) here so I have no experience with it. It didn't appear to have anything else besides that jelly like substance that resembled old and rotten eLiquid.

It could make a difference if it's conductive and isolates the threads from external agents like air and eLiquid.


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[KenD]

Don't really know. Noalex isn't used much (if at all) here so I have no experience with it. It didn't appear to have anything else besides that jelly like substance that resembled old and rotten eLiquid.

It could make a difference if it's conductive and isolates the threads from external agents like air and eLiquid.


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From what I've understood it's made for aluminium threads and not ideal for other materials, but I have no actual information.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk

 

[dwcraig1]

From what I've understood it's made for aluminium threads and not ideal for other materials, but I have no actual information.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk

The case and it's threads are aluminum.

 

[KenD]

The case and it's threads are aluminum.

Ah, ok. Missed that.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk

 

[Mactavish]

I should have included the file, so here is where i got it from if anyone else would like to try it:
View Single Post - SS316L Help - DNA 200 Early Adopters Forum

Looks like Jaquiths V4 file is using the 2nd TCR below, these from the Ultimate TCR list found on this site. If you have an Evolv DNA200, you can make a custom TCR in Escribe as well.

SS316L: 0.000879 (According to Steam-Engine)

SS316L: 0.00092 (According to @DJLsbVapes and other sources)

 

[3alouka]

Looks like Jaquiths V4 file is using the 2nd TCR below, these from the Ultimate TCR list found on this site. If you have an Evolv DNA200, you can make a custom TCR in Escribe as well.

SS316L: 0.000879 (According to Steam-Engine)

SS316L: 0.00092 (According to @DJLsbVapes and other sources)

I've been setting my TCR manually to 0.00092, and on the graph (the curve), this only shows one point. Performance wise, this was very weak that i had to set my temp to 550F just to get a not so satisfying vape.
Now if you load the Jaquith V4, on the graph you will find 6 points. Performance wise this was really good, and i could go as low as 420F and still get a satisfying vape, but i prefer to set it at 440F, which seem more logical temps compared to those used when setting the TCR manually.
I'm not an expert, so i can't tell you what this scientifically means, BUT, i've tried both, and there is a significant difference in performance.
I should mention i have my preheat turned all the way down.

 

[3alouka]

I have also noticed something that i think i should share.
When my vs dna200 is left unused for a long time, to the point that when i press the fire button the vaporshark and evolv splash screens are displayed, on the first draw i notice an unusual ramp up in power. This is similar to the evic VT pushing 30 watts on the first button press after being left unused, and also the snowwolf V1 if i'm correct.
The first puff is very powerful, and then the vape comes back to normal on the second puff and so on.
Has anyone experienced this before?

 

[tchavei]

I have also noticed something that i think i should share.
When my vs dna200 is left unused for a long time, to the point that when i press the fire button the vaporshark and evolv splash screens are displayed, on the first draw i notice an unusual ramp up in power. This is similar to the evic VT pushing 30 watts on the first button press after being left unused, and also the snowwolf V1 if i'm correct.
The first puff is very powerful, and then the vape comes back to normal on the second puff and so on.
Has anyone experienced this before?

Hmm. No BUT when I leave my mod for extended periods of time, the attached atomizer also saturates its wick and obviously the first couple of draws are stronger than the subsequent ones. Nothing to do with extra power unless you're using preheat and in that case, the extra liquid in the wick will keep the coil cooler and the mod will fire Harder to get the coil up to temperature. That's the only logic explanation I can see.

Regards
Tony

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[VapingBad]

I have also noticed something that i think i should share.
When my vs dna200 is left unused for a long time, to the point that when i press the fire button the vaporshark and evolv splash screens are displayed, on the first draw i notice an unusual ramp up in power. This is similar to the evic VT pushing 30 watts on the first button press after being left unused, and also the snowwolf V1 if i'm correct.
The first puff is very powerful, and then the vape comes back to normal on the second puff and so on.
Has anyone experienced this before?

Sounds like it is just checking it is a temp sensing coil and when it does that there is no preheat applied for the 1st puff. Maybe the cold resistance has moved, the mod is at a significantly different temp or something that makes it want to treat it as a new coil.

 

[3alouka]

Hmm. No BUT when I leave my mod for extended periods of time, the attached atomizer also saturates its wick and obviously the first couple of draws are stronger than the subsequent ones. Nothing to do with extra power unless you're using preheat and in that case, the extra liquid in the wick will keep the coil cooler and the mod will fire Harder to get the coil up to temperature. That's the only logic explanation I can see.

Regards
Tony

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my preheat is set to 1 (can't get it any lower), my preheat time limit is 0, and the punch is set to 5, so no preheat i guess.
Thinking about your logic, i might leave my atty long enough to saturate, but not long enough to go into deep sleep and display splash screens on wake up, and still this won't happen.

 

[3alouka]

Sounds like it is just checking it is a temp sensing coil and when it does that there is no preheat applied for the 1st puff. Maybe the cold resistance has moved, the mod is at a significantly different temp or something that makes it want to treat it as a new coil.

One thing i will do is leave my mod unused long enough, and fire it while watching what readings i get on the screen.

 

[3alouka]

Sounds like it is just checking it is a temp sensing coil and when it does that there is no preheat applied for the 1st puff. Maybe the cold resistance has moved, the mod is at a significantly different temp or something that makes it want to treat it as a new coil.

I think i'm reaching a logical explanation. I think what's happening is that on the first fire button press after being idle for a long time, there is no temp control and the mod simply fires in wattage mode, after the first puff temp control kicks in , and things are back to normal.
How did i reach this conclusion? I have my wattage set to 60 watts in temp control, and when i turn off temp control and vape at 60 watts i get the same result as firing it from deep sleep.
I still might be wrong.

 

[VapingBad]

I think i'm reaching a logical explanation. I think what's happening is that on the first fire button press after being idle for a long time, there is no temp control and the mod simply fires in wattage mode, after the first puff temp control kicks in , and things are back to normal.
How did i reach this conclusion? I have my wattage set to 60 watts in temp control, and when i turn off temp control and vape at 60 watts i get the same result as firing it from deep sleep.
I still might be wrong.

It would still go into temp limiting mode during the puff after the temp had risen 150 F.

 

[3alouka]

It would still go into temp limiting mode during the puff after the temp had risen 150 F.

How can it go into temp limiting mode mid puff if it's originally firing the whole puff in wattage mode?

 

[Scy123]

I have also noticed something that i think i should share.
When my vs dna200 is left unused for a long time, to the point that when i press the fire button the vaporshark and evolv splash screens are displayed, on the first draw i notice an unusual ramp up in power. This is similar to the evic VT pushing 30 watts on the first button press after being left unused, and also the snowwolf V1 if i'm correct.
The first puff is very powerful, and then the vape comes back to normal on the second puff and so on.
Has anyone experienced this before?

You should look at the screen to get a better idea of what it is doing. When I first got the Wismec DNA200. I noticed once it actually went over the temp I set it at. like I set it at 450 degrees and it showed something like 700 degrees. I know it does not sound possible and really I can't be sure if it was not just my imagination.

Or check it out on the device monitor. That might be a better option.