apparently my derriere is magnificent, so therefore my opinions should be great as well, right?
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Too bad i'm a ladies derriere only guy, what a loss of opportunity, LMAO!!
DNA 200 Watt
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Too bad i'm a ladies derriere only guy, what a loss of opportunity, LMAO!!
Why turn off preheat, I read this a lot for SS so have tested it a few times and never found it to cause any negative issues. I am interested if someone can post 2 device monitor screens showing a problem with preheat and that turning it off cures it.
I would only lock for a reason like intermittent connections, changing batteries with a hot atty or in a profile for a standard build I may attach hot.
I did not turn off preheat for a ss related issue, i did that because until now i really don't understand the right way to use it, and how it will benefit my vape. I'm still new to using the chip and the preheat concept overall and haven't read much about it.
Pretty much my experience for the "first hit = extra powerful" issue.
I think a lot of confusion about setting up TC correctly comes to two different schools of thought that teaches a different way (you know this, but others don't). One method is:
1) Set the temperature for the highest temperature you ever want to go. And regulate your vape by varying the wattage just like you do in wattage mode. Except TC will prevent you from going anything higher than the temperature setting.
Using this method, has the disadvantage of depending on your build (ohms, wire, thickness, etc) of having a slow ramp up time. So you can press the fire button and no vape may happen for a second or two. So with preheat, it hits the coil(s) with a higher wattage from the start to warm it up faster.
2) This method I believe is far more common than method 1. That is to set your wattage higher than you would for wattage vaping. And adjust the temperature setting to adjust your vape instead of wattage. And I see very little need for preheat with this method, because it is like full preheat throughout your whole vape with the higher wattage setting anyway. Sure with preheat enabled, you could turn down wattage setting to basically what you are actually using anyway. But then you are actually using method 1 anyway at that point.
Sure some people use the max wattage setting for method 2. I personally don't do that as that is like flooring it at a stop light when the light turns green. One doesn't need that much of a jump start. Just something a little more practical. And let's say something bad happens, like the firmware gets stuck in a loop or whatever where it couldn't control the TC for a brief second? Then the coil gets an instant 200 watts during that time. Good vape, eh?
And some of us use all the settings of the 200...
Adjust maximum Wattage available to select and
Adjusting Preheat, punch, and duration and
Adjusting temperature and wattage.
The best way to adjust is the way one chooses that gives them the vape they want...
Adjust maximum Wattage available to select and
Adjusting Preheat, punch, and duration and
Adjusting temperature and wattage.
The best way to adjust is the way one chooses that gives them the vape they want...
Well guys. One of my dna 200 boards died in its sleep 
It looks completely bricked. No pulse of life, no screen, nothing.
Time for a rma I guess.
Tony
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It looks completely bricked. No pulse of life, no screen, nothing.
Time for a rma I guess.
Tony
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Does it come to life if you hook it up to Escribe? If so, I think that means it's either the fuse or the battery. Good Luck!Well guys. One of my dna 200 boards died in its sleep
It looks completely bricked. No pulse of life, no screen, nothing.
Time for a rma I guess.
Tony
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Cheers,
Steve
Well guys. One of my dna 200 boards died in its sleep
Evolv says the DNA is virtually impossible to brick. You should be able to communicate with EScribe and reprogram the firmware if necessary. And yes, I too agree with Steve. It does sound like the fuse. If you have a meter, you can ohm the fuse (on the backside close to the battery connection). And if you are handy with soldering, they are pretty simple to replace.
Not worth the hassle of even bothering. Send it in and Evolv will replace it. If the fuse blew, it did it for a reason. One way shipping cost can be a hassle especially from a different country but the peace of mind knowing a re-occurrence will be unlikely justifies it IMHO.
Not always. Fuses in this case are running on the edge. The fuse is rated at 25A and the DNA200 is rated at 23A. And sometimes a 25A fuse can blow at 23A. Although in this case it sounds like the mod was asleep, it could have been just ready to go anyway. This is all assuming that it is the fuse that failed.
A SIDE NOTE: Evolv had a bunch of fuses that blew for no good reason. They were a bad batch from the manufacture. Evolv honored the warranty of course. But there are probably some bad fuses still out there.
I'm sorry but this one appears to be bricked
the board isn't even detected by the computer, not even a beep. I took my last vape on that device at 7 pm, put it on my night stand table and left it there. I didn't plugged it in the charger or anything else. This morning when I grabbed it, I pressed the fire button but nothing happened. I pressed the other buttons, nothing.
I now plugged it into my computer and all I got was a deadly silence. For all purposes, it's a brick.
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Try a different cable just to be thorough.I'm sorry but this one appears to be bricked
I took my last vape on that device at 7 pm, put it on my night stand table and left it there. I didn't plugged it in the charger or anything else. This morning when I grabbed it, I pressed the fire button but nothing happened. I pressed the other buttons, nothing.
I now plugged it into my computer and all I got was a deadly silence. For all purposes, it's a brick.
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I now plugged it into my computer and all I got was a deadly silence. For all purposes, it's a brick.
When it is connected and you run EScribe and check on "Connect and Download Settings" button what happens? "No compatible USB devices are connected." will appear if it can't find a DNA200. Is that what you see?
Yes, that message appears but It doesn't even show up in Windows device manager. Not even an indication an USB device has been connected
Even if it were corrupted, device manager should complain about it. It isn't even aware something has been plugged in.
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Yes, that message appears but It doesn't even show up in Windows device manager. Not even an indication an USB device has been connected
Even if it were corrupted, device manager should complain about it. It isn't even aware something has been plugged in.
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Is this the same one you had e-liquid inside it?
I didn't had eLiquid in any of them. I did have a gunked up 510 connector but the interior was pristine. I did cleaned the tabs of that particular board 5 days ago suspecting bad ground but in the end it was the connector. I'm not excluding external action might have something to do with it (despite the special coating). The end result is the same... It's dead
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Yes, that message appears but It doesn't even show up in Windows device manager. Not even an indication an USB device has been connected
Yes well that isn't good. You know not all USB cables has the data lines connected right (they are only good for charging)? As long as you know that isn't the problem, the next step is to contact Evolv.
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