DNA 40, NR, Nickel Builds

[Rikk]

I've done spaced coils that way on the Coil Master so I would expect it would work on the Kuro as well. I also use the Coil Master to wrap normal touching coils and gently pull them apart as well as wrapping spaced coils by hand and just eyeballing the spacing. All methods work well but wrapping by hand is the fastest for me but I use a lighted magnifying mirror on a stand which makes seeing the coil spacing as I wrap very easy.

Stick with what is working for you but most people haven't had consistent, long-term success with contact coils and temperature protection.

I second that. I was almost intimidated to do spaced coils because all I ever wrapped prior were contact coils. Contact coils with nickel was hit or miss for me, but spaced are reliable and just work for me. They're not as pretty cuz I just wrap by hand, but they sure work and that's all that matters in the end

 

[TheKiwi]

To make a point on what you've said Kiwi wasn't burning machine oil off the coil wire customary not too long ago?

That was for kanthal tho. But anyways here's the thing.

Fact: Ni200 is known to leech carbon at higher temp.

The problem is many people see "leeching" and immediately associate that with some kinda negative connotation and so it is shunned.

There are a few of us who don't really see an issue with it though. For one, Ni200 is 99.7% Nickel. There's just very little carbon in it to begin with. For another, I am highly skeptical that carbon, especially at that level, is even physiologically harmful. (I have absolutely nth to back it up tho hahaha)

But yeah. I dry burn my coils all the time

That said, Ni200 doesn't form a non-conductive oxide layer the way kanthal does. Consequently, working out hotspots can be a nightmare. I've had builds that look absolutely perfect but no matter how much time I spend pulsing and squeezing them, damned shorts just can't be worked out. And I can't even figure out why given that sometimes I CAN work the shorts out.

I second that. I was almost intimidated to do spaced coils because all I ever wrapped prior were contact coils. Contact coils with nickel was hit or miss for me, but spaced are reliable and just work for me. They're not as pretty cuz I just wrap by hand, but they sure work and that's all that matters in the end

I wrap my coils by hands too. If you take it real slow, it can be pretty nice.

Just gotta be a buttload more patient, slower and use more tension. Nods.


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[Rikk]

That was for kanthal tho. But anyways here's the thing.

Fact: Ni200 is known to leech carbon at higher temp.

The problem is many people see "leeching" and immediately associate that with some kinda negative connotation and so it is shunned.

There are a few of us who don't really see an issue with it though. For one, Ni200 is 99.7% Nickel. There's just very little carbon in it to begin with. For another, I am highly skeptical that carbon, especially at that level, is even physiologically harmful. (I have absolutely nth to back it up tho hahaha)

But yeah. I dry burn my coils all the time [emoji14]

That said, Ni200 doesn't form a non-conductive oxide layer the way kanthal does. Consequently, working out hotspots can be a nightmare. I've had builds that look absolutely perfect but no matter how much time I spend pulsing and squeezing them, damned shorts just can't be worked out. And I can't even figure out why given that sometimes I CAN work the shorts out.



I wrap my coils by hands too. If you take it real slow, it can be pretty nice.

Just gotta be a buttload more patient, slower and use more tension. Nods.


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Those are some purty coils that seem to go on and on and on

That's why I like and prefer 30ga as it keeps my coils small and manageable.

I don't dry burn nickel because I'm afraid of leeching or anything like that. It's because I don't like what it does to the coils as they seem to get squishy and weird, and start to lose their shape after dry burning. At least that's been my take away.

 

[TheKiwi]

Hehe that was back in the good ole days when I was obsessed with getting over 0.2 ohms and using a 2mm bit. It's a lot more refined now that I'm using 3/32 or 7/64, and a little more realistic about desired resistance


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[Steamer861]

I have a few TC setups working just fine in bottom feeders and KF V4's
I'm trying to get a good setup in my KFL+ and for unknown reasons it hit TC real fast all the time.
Wondering what could be different with the KFL+ that would make it hit TC so fast?
Anyone have a good setup in a KFL+?

 

[jazzvaper]

Wondering what could be different with the KFL+ that would make it hit TC so fast?
Anyone have a good setup in a KFL+?

Wicking is the KEY with the Kv4.

When I find myself hitting TP prematurely I remove the base and THIN the wick. Sometimes I need to both thin and SHORTEN.


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[Steamer861]

Thanks My V4's are great it's the KFL+ giving me Grief

Wicking is the KEY with the Kv4.

When I find myself hitting TP prematurely I remove the base and THIN the wick. Sometimes I need to both thin and SHORTEN.


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[jazzvaper]

Thanks My V4's are great it's the KFL+ giving me Grief

Same principle: less is more.


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[Major911]

I have a few TC setups working just fine in bottom feeders and KF V4's
I'm trying to get a good setup in my KFL+ and for unknown reasons it hit TC real fast all the time.
Wondering what could be different with the KFL+ that would make it hit TC so fast?
Anyone have a good setup in a KFL+?

Airflow. KFL+ is too restrictive. Can't get enough airflow to cool the coil.

 

[Pocha]

Ironically I just built a coil for my KFL that is vaping beautifully (about 8 spaced wraps of 30g tempered around 2.5mm screwdriver) at about 430 @ 25 watts. Let's see what happens when refinement get ahold of it though. LOL.

 

[Fyla]

I have a few TC setups working just fine in bottom feeders and KF V4's
I'm trying to get a good setup in my KFL+ and for unknown reasons it hit TC real fast all the time.
Wondering what could be different with the KFL+ that would make it hit TC so fast?
Anyone have a good setup in a KFL+?

I tried various builds on my KFL+V2. Problem is with wicking and airflow on it. So with this restricted parameters, best i can go is 430-480F and 8-12W for some normal chain vaping. Also, i found out that twisted 32AWG @0.15 Ohms on 3mm gives me best flavor possible.

 

[Rhody]

I did a new build this morning, was using 30g twisted, so I decided to do a single 30g build, 8 wraps spaced on my derringer . So I put it on the device and noticed it did not recognize new atty, and after one or two pulls, TP would come on. At first I thought I didn't juice it up enough, so I re juiced, and still TP kept coming on.....So I unscrewed the atty almost out, hit the fire button, "check atty" came on,
screwed it back in, hit the fire button again, Then it asked me "New Atty" hit the + button for new atty, and since then, I was able to vape
it without the TP message coming on immediately

I've read alot of this thread and noticed the same issue with other people, so thought I'd pass this on. Maybe this will work for them

 

[TheKiwi]

^this is why it's always a good idea to check the resistance of your build on a ohm meter first, then plonk it in your mod. You wanna make sure that the base resistance taken is correct.

If the mod doesn't recognize it, then it'll simply hold on to the previous base resistance and you won't get a good vape.


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[Podunk Steam]

I'm pretty sold on the thought the biggest problem with Ni200 and contact coils is being able to maintain constant geometry between coils. This can be seen with Kanthal coils as well although not as dramatically.

 

[Pocha]

Ironically I just built a coil for my KFL that is vaping beautifully (about 8 spaced wraps of 30g tempered around 2.5mm screwdriver) at about 430 @ 25 watts. Let's see what happens when refinement get ahold of it though. LOL.

Omg this coil didn't refine at all. It's still vaping great...rock solid at .13, even with chain vaping at 18-20+ watts, and not hitting temp protect! I don't know what I did right...lol! Except that the wraps were more separated than usual.

 

[Steamer861]

You must have done something right I have made several attempts, on a few different KFL+'s. All I get at 450 & 20 watts is TC over and over

Omg this coil didn't refine at all. It's still vaping great...rock solid at .13, even with chain vaping at 18-20+ watts, and not hitting temp protect! I don't know what I did right...lol! Except that the wraps were more separated than usual.

 

[Woofer]

You must have done something right I have made several attempts, on a few different KFL+'s. All I get at 450 & 20 watts is TC over and over

20 watts is pretty high for a Kayfun, just sayin.

 

[Steamer861]

With Kanthol I run them at 16 watts 1.2 ohms or 4.2 volts, with NI200 you need a little higher wattage compared to Kanthol
I tried to lower the wattage all the way down to 12 still TC all the time

20 watts is pretty high for a Kayfun, just sayin.

 

[Woofer]

With Kanthol I run them at 16 watts 1.2 ohms or 4.2 volts, with NI200 you need a little higher wattage compared to Kanthol
I tried to lower the wattage all the way down to 12 still TC all the time

I run my R91s at 12 to 14ish watts 420F and that very rarely hits TL with my draw, wicks and what not.
It's a satisfying vape for me.
I don't trust the atty's adjustable 510, it needs something to tighten down on.
Hope you get it working!

 

[flog]

This started on some previous comments on how to do "Spaced Coils". Frankly, I haven't had much of a challenge, mostly due to bits picked up from vids and this forum. Any hoo, I start with 28g nickel on a small screwdriver (3 mm) and put down 8 to 12 wraps, in this case, 9.5.

As you can see, not much care was taken, but now you smoosh it against that red insulation and release. I smooshed twice, I'm a recovering smoozer.

Next pic is a typical width of cojo cotton, slightly wider than the coil.

Of course now I need to remove the old coil and the 2 slices of jello. Remember this pic, a theory comes from it later.

This is the single most favorite thing I love about the sub tank, it's wire capture.

Just loosen screw, lay wire beside it, and tighten screw, easy-peasy.

Continued in second post, Mr computer says only 5 pic's per post, the dreaded 3 p's