DNA 40, NR, Nickel Builds

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flog

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One thing I've found, easy to connect with wires going under, hard with over the coil wires.
5.Connect Under.jpg
All that's left is to wick. Seems like a lot of tail, not that kind-get your mind out of the gutter.
6.Wicked and ready.jpg
But it works for me, just when tucking in, try to leave the juice channel clear.
7.Juiced and clear of channel.jpg
Came out to 0.13 ohms, little high for my experience.
8.0.13 ohms.jpg
30 minutes later, it refined to 0.12. I expect another hundredth or two drop.

Oh, I know it might look pretty (or maybe not :( ), but Harbor Freight does carry some nice cheaters :laugh:
9.My Cheaters.jpg
and they are cheap.

Oh, some of you may have noticed on the coil pics, the outer wraps are kind of out there. And you know what, I don't care about them.

Lets make this fun and have you guess why,

Hint, I've alluded to it.
 

tchavei

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Question: wouldn't it make more sense building a right hand coil so you could tuck the wire under the screw clockwise instead of counterclockwise? When you tighten down the screw the wire would be pulled under the head and not pushed outwards?

Regards
Tony

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tchavei

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Ya got me Tony,

While I was putting this together, I saw too late that I should have wound it the other way. But as it turns out, it didn't distort the coil that much, so all in all, it works for you either way, go figure! [emoji23]:D[emoji23]
There are circumstances where you actually want to do it like you posted. When the coil is short, the "clockwise" method around the screw will tend to pull the wraps apart while securing the legs counterclockwise under the screw will make the wraps push together :)

Regards
Tony

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2legsshrt

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Just wondering does it hurt the DNA40 if I am using a dripper with a 12 wrap 29AWG 2.5mm set at 430 and 21w. I hit TP every hit towards the end but it is vaping good. No burnt cotton but I just don't look at the TP I ignore it. Its a good vape kinda mild but very clean. I had given up on nickel but I wanted to give this a try.
 

Rikk

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Just wondering does it hurt the DNA40 if I am using a dripper with a 12 wrap 29AWG 2.5mm set at 430 and 21w. I hit TP every hit towards the end but it is vaping good. No burnt cotton but I just don't look at the TP I ignore it. Its a good vape kinda mild but very clean. I had given up on nickel but I wanted to give this a try.
It shouldn't hurt it but if it's hitting TP at the end of your hit, do what I do and let the build determine your settings. Bump your temp to 440 or 450 or turn your watts down just a bit to avoid hitting TP.

I use the Flask so I can see what's going on when I vape. And right now I have my build set to 19 watts and 440 degrees, and I'm not hitting TP at all, but I notice after I hit it 3 or 4 times in a row pretty quickly, I'll see my watts start to drop at the end of the hit. And a lot of the time I'll see it drop a bit and then come back up on the same hit, depending on my draw. I can see it managing the temperature without hitting TP. And that's how I think it should be working.

It sounds like you have it just about perfect. And adjusting your temp or wattage a bit to avoid hitting TP shouldn't affect the quality of your vape.

But hitting TP at the end of your hit isn't going to hurt anything, it's just telling you that your temp is too low or your wattage is to high. At least that's my take on it.
 

flog

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As long as the vapor/flavor is satisfactory, I don't worry about TP, it's just doing it's thing.

Here's my take on TP:

If it comes on at the very beginning, I usually am not getting much out of it (once in a great while, it feels like it's torching me :mad:), indications of a hot spot or some other problem. Pop it open, check screw tightness, coil condition, and clearance from the metal body. Sometimes the cotton will clue me in. After the check and maybe a touch of mechanical agitation, it usually works. If not, pull the coil and re-build (my builds are usually 95% successful).

If TP comes on later in the draw, no problem, it's doing it's job (my typical build is 28g 9-12 wraps, 3mm form, 0.12 ohms, 410 deg, 13 watts, on a sub tank)

OR I'm out of juice :laugh::laugh::laugh:
 
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tchavei

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It has a learning curve. Getting it under the screw really tight and solid is very important.

Anyway, finally found a turnbuckle for my ni 200 coils (my erlprinz requires a right hand coil which can't be made on a normal right hand screw if you want assistance)

28g

c0ba187910b7e95ac4e54731b6a3681a.jpg


9008def1fd21b73561cde4f418040524.jpg


80e1876baa56570a52c147cd93883863.jpg


Regards
Tony

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Rikk

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It has a learning curve. Getting it under the screw really tight and solid is very important.

Anyway, finally found a turnbuckle for my ni 200 coils (my erlprinz requires a right hand coil which can't be made on a normal right hand screw if you want assistance)

28g

c0ba187910b7e95ac4e54731b6a3681a.jpg


9008def1fd21b73561cde4f418040524.jpg


80e1876baa56570a52c147cd93883863.jpg


Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
That's a very pretty coil. I wish mine looked like that, but oh they don't. All the screws I have leave my coil facing the wrong way on my Squape; my goto for all my nickel builds currently. So I have to wrap around a basic 3mm rod and they ain't spaced perfectly, but they still vape well.

I haven't tried nickel on my K4 yet, but on my next build I'm going to give it a go. I should be able to use one of my screws with the 4 posts on the deck of the K4 and make it work - at least I hope.

What do I need, a left handed screw in order to wrap it for my Squape? I don't know if I've ever seen any on my excursions to the improvement store.
 
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tchavei

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That's a very pretty coil. I wish mine looked like that, but oh they don't. All the screws I have leave my coil facing the wrong way on my Squape; my goto for all my nickel builds currently. So I have to wrap around a basic 3mm rod and they ain't spaced perfectly, but they still vape well.

I haven't tried nickel on my K4 yet, but on my next build I'm going to give it a go. I should be able to use one of my screws with the 4 posts on the deck of the K4 and make it work - at least I hope.

What do I need, a left handed screw in order to wrap it for my Squape? I don't know if I've ever seen any on my excursions to the improvement store.

For coils that have the legs exiting as shown in my pic (right hand coil), you need a left hand screw. It's not easy to get a left hand M3 machine screw BUT turnbuckles are easy to get if you go to a RC Hobby Shop and ask for adjustable links. the center piece should have one left hand thread on one side. :)

Regards
Tony
 

Rikk

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7c667dac0073201b6f32d72dee7d7e76.jpg


Subtank mini RBA on a rdna40.

Twisted 28g 6 wraps around 3mm ID, about 0.09/0.1 ohms depending on how refinement decides. Lots of flavor. I wicked it right and it stays at 25w all the way on a 5 second drag. 420f. I played around and it can handle up to 31w 5 second drags before ramping down a little to 25w.
Looks like a pretty loose twist. I've experimented with twisting nickel but haven't had much luck. I wonder if I'm twisting too tight. I always seem to get hot spots and hit TP rather quickly. But this was in the beginning when I first started trying different nickel builds.

Now I've settled on spaced single strand 29 or 30ga wraps that work really well. And tempered nickel of course ;) Maybe I need to revisit twisted and see how I fair. Just not sure the best way to twist my strands. I used my drill on my last several and twisted then very tight. I wonder if I'm damaging the wire by twisting it too tight? I couldn't get a decent vape from it.
 

Rikk

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FWIW, I wrapped twisted nickel wire using the coffee cup method. It seemed to work fine, I've only tried the twisted nickel wire in one RDA though.

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I've seen it done with a paperclip, but never a coffee cup. Maybe I'll do me some searching and see what this is. ;)
 

HolmanGT

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Yup I did a lose twist. Though it is "loose" it doesn't wind open or anything. It's loose because... I used a paperclip and can't be bothered to take out my drill bit haha.

ahmad,

Too lazy to break out the drill motor but not too lazy to wind it with a paperclip. That is a very interesting paradox. :D
 

ahmadmfz

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ahmad,

Too lazy to break out the drill motor but not too lazy to wind it with a paperclip. That is a very interesting paradox. :D
That's true. Id have to go to the store room and dig through a lot of stuff to get to my drill bit, and then set it up with the wires if it isn't charged. And then out it all back together.

I could do all that or just spin a paperclip that's already beside me while I mindlessly watch a movie.
 

HolmanGT

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That's true. Id have to go to the store room and dig through a lot of stuff to get to my drill bit, and then set it up with the wires if it isn't charged. And then out it all back together.

I could do all that or just spin a paperclip that's already beside me while I mindlessly watch a movie.

Well I can't argue with that but I don't have the patience to hand wind three feet of wire by hand. "Different strokes for different folks"... ;)
 
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