Hello! I haven't read this thread for a while even though I still love TC. The thread kind of exploded and I couldn't keep up. Tried to read up a few times but it was so much but I am OCD and what to do and then my brain tilted lol.
I just got a vapor flask clone with the Kangxin DNA40 clone chip today. It's not quite as nice as the original DNA40 but it works. My main problem is it shows the "temp protect" forever and doesn't show the actual watts that are used often / updated enough. It also has a 0.5 sec firing delay! I'll definitely have to put an original DNA40 in there.
My best nickel build so far is a triple twisted 32AWG dual coil build around a 3mm screw with 14 wraps. Comes out to 0.08 ohm and needs about a second to heat up at 40 watts. Temps out at 440°F with about 30-35 watts. I really love it except for the slow ramp up time which I'm not used to at all anymore.
I've also bought more wire to play with. I still like the grade 2 titanium wire but it's such a PITA to work with because it's so incredibly elastic. The grade 1 titanium wire seems (much) more easy to work with. Maybe it's just the difference between alloyed and tempered / work tempered. Maybe you just have to heat up ti gr2 wire once and it gets softer.
BTW stainless steel wire also works with temperature control. I initially tested 304 stainless steel (or 1.4301 or X5CrNi18-10 or "V2A" or Versuchsschmelze 2 Austenit!) and it's temperature coefficient is probably about 40% of that of nickel. Which means that even if you set it to 200°F it's still hotter than 440°F. But it works theoretically. So if evolv would just add a different mode for different materials this would work well. Maybe the SX350J will release an update with different mods for wire materials. I haven't yet tested the 316L yet (FYI G-Plat is also just stainless Steel 316L surgical grade or 317L welding wire). Maybe it has a higher TCR.
I've done a quick test on my coiling jig with one side clamped down with the screw and the other pulled tight with pliers. It's a huge difference! Imagine a big coil springing back like the grade 2 titanium lol. The stainless steel wire is tough (much less soft than nickel) but quite maleable (not springy). Here is a picture (excuse my crappy handwriting, it's late).
I haven't tested the temperature yet. Can you read wire temperature with an IR thermometer?
Settled on the Holmes RDA V1 which looks like it might me a winner. There isn't much out there about it, but what there is seems pretty positive and for $20 it isn't much of a risk.
The Holmes is fine. For me the V1 had a little bit too much airflow. The juice well unfortunately doesn't hold more than the Magma. If the airflow outlets would be closer to the center it would be more leak resistant against tilting / over dripping (like the innovative but unsuccessful Aris RDA)
Has anyone tried to drill out the Magma to 3mm?
I just wish the Freakshow would have two posts.
My atomizer really hot to the touch, but screen still showing only 200f on fire at 13J..
It might well be that TC isn't working though. 390°F should be a rather cool vape. Maybe you just need to manually reset the resistance when the coils are at room temperature? I actually like that feature of the SX350J. Or maybe you have a connectivity issue e.g. with the posts holes and you need to gently screw down some more. Or your 510. Welcome to TC! But reset your resistance first just in case your resistance is futile!
Honestly especially with the "innovative Jihi unit" they are using I would just set it to MAX and only use temperature. Nobody knows what the joules mean because they simply make no sense in the context they are using them. Just set it to max and adjust the temperature to your taste.
Need to read a couple pages on builds to see what's up. Definitely subscribing.
