DNA40 vs SX350j

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Steamer861

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This is a DNA40 vs SX350j thread. Does the 350j have bluetooth?
NO! it does not! The haters just want to Hate! They come on here bad mouthing Evolv just to start crap. I don't get it.
This thread has gone down hill the whole time. Best it just gets closed nothing good is coming out of this discussion :(
 
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Yozhik

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This is a DNA40 vs SX350j thread. Does the 350j have bluetooth?

Nope, but threads always evolve. Thus we've discussed here advantageous features beyond the DNA40 and SX350J, of which bluetooth and other advances (e.g., thermocouples) have come up. But hey, if you want to argue banning all discussion of the DNA200 because it doesn't fit the title of the thread, you're welcome to such nonsense. ;)
 

Steamer861

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Little off topic. I need to replace my dna screen (small version) do all 20/30/40 boards use the same screen?

Thx

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.


Yes all the same. FYI Evolv does screen replacements for 10.00 return shipping included :)
 

tchavei

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He's on Mars so shipping would be ridiculous. (Could be some other foreign place).
Yeah, something like that.

I'm considering doing a Frankenstein though. I have a clone 30D board here. Screen appears to be equal and 8 contacts. Just don't know if the controller is compatible.

Cheapest original screen costs 20 bucks shipped (uk) here on the Mars continent.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
 

Steamer861

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Yeah, something like that.

I'm considering doing a Frankenstein though. I have a clone 30D board here. Screen appears to be equal and 8 contacts. Just don't know if the controller is compatible.

Cheapest original screen costs 20 bucks shipped (uk) here on the Mars continent.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.


All you do is try, you never know clone screen mite work :)
 

jchisholm

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Well at least Evolv will have a product at least with similar power capabilities to compare to the SX. I've always thought it over reach of the Evolv fanboys to want to compare a 40 w device to the 120w & now 150w of the SXmini when really the only thing to compare is mainly Temp limiting.

But who knows maybe we'll be comparing this new chip to one Yihi posted about Dec. of last year SX350 V250, or perhaps something even better. The world is our oyster in this rapidly evolving industy. :D

News - YiHi SX350 V250 new chip News
Color Screen TFT 2.8〞 3.5〞 4.3〞selectable
Variable Joule, heat controllable, Temperature
controllable. Perfect experience mode.
Super power, Maximum 250W, still upgradable
Touch Sensor
Bluetooth
0.05ohm -3.0 ohm
DC-DC 1.0V-12.0V
Software upgrade/GUI operate


In my mind Evolv had to do something like this in order to turn the consumer to talking & posting about something "New & Better" and to mitigate some of the bad press of the DNA 40. 6-8 months now and people are still receiving glitched systems and the addition of a display reset to hide or minimize the problem isn't really a fix. It seems apparent they cant fix the problems correctly and have adequate time to do so.

I truly hope they are successful with their next product release. (I do prefer my money stay stateside and make it's way to my fellow neighbors if at all possible) I can only imagine the financial loss's the DNA 40 has caused them and their vendors and would find it hard to see them survive should their next release be plagued with issues that were not correctable. They have to rebuild their reputation and credibility with the consumer that they once had with the DNA 30 and prior. Of course there will always be the loyal fanboy that will turn any defect into a feature and everything else will be user error. At any rate good luck to them.

You know what to me is interesting.. I have 2 SX350j mods (one M Class, one home-made) and 4 (four) DNA40 mods with all generations of chipsets. I kept building more DNA40 mods in the hope of getting one that would work properly (at least to my expectations). No end of frustrations and yes I consider myself a competent coil builder and have been an Electrical Engineering Technologist for 40+ years so the theory and implementation of temp limiting on these devices is straight forward.
In all respects IMO the SX350 is a superior product, consistent,solid etc etc.
Anyhow as I started to say the interesting thing is that since I've been using 26AWG Ti wire (5 wraps at 3mm)
I have yet to experience ONE screen glitch on my DNA40s, all of which were glitchy with Ni200.
A solid, satisfying vape that differs very little from the SX350, and the bonus is that at .220 ohms I can swap an atty back and forth between devices for comparison. Wouldn't do that with a .065 build.
I drop 100 degrees off the temperature setting and the results thus far are great.
Worth a try if you haven't already.
 

KTMRider

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Interesting. I bought 3 DNA40 mods (VS DNA40, rDNA40, Hana V4) and built 3 (2 large screen and 1 small screen). The Hana V4 is the only one that glitches (very seldomly at that). They've all worked great for me. I've only had less than a week's worth of experience with the SXj (SX Mini M and Boxer) and so far, I found the DNA40 to be the better chip. The only thing I like better on the SXj is the auto orientation screen.

Most of my builds are .10Ω - .14Ω so I move them back and forth.
 
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Rossum

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Anyhow as I started to say the interesting thing is that since I've been using 26AWG Ti wire (5 wraps at 3mm)
I have yet to experience ONE screen glitch on my DNA40s, all of which were glitchy with Ni200.
One theory is that the DNA40 screen glitches are due to EMI at high currents. Your TI coils, having a higher resistance, don't require as much current, and thus the DNA doesn't produce as high a field strength. This theory would also explain why screen-glitches typically weren't caught during factory testing (even at full rated current) and why some mods were more prone to glitches than others, because orientation of the screen with respect to the board would affect the field strength seen by the screen.
 

TheBloke

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tchavei

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One theory is that the DNA40 screen glitches are due to EMI at high currents. Your TI coils, having a higher resistance, don't require as much current, and thus the DNA doesn't produce as high a field strength. This theory would also explain why screen-glitches typically weren't caught during factory testing (even at full rated current) and why some mods were more prone to glitches than others, because orientation of the screen with respect to the board would affect the field strength seen by the screen.
Nice but why don't the clones glitch then? Mr. G. states that the glitch is a hardware problem in the screen itself so are the clone screens better?

I already said I'm planning to replace my shot original dna screen with a clone screen (fingers crossed that it will work) but I wonder, if it works, would it also definitely cure the dna glitches?

My last board hasn't had any glitch so I can't test it but it would be mind blowing if a clone screen could be the answer to the garbled screen issues.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
 

ZeroOhm

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Yes all the same. FYI Evolv does screen replacements for 10.00 return shipping included :)
Hahaah if you live in the US for the rest of the world its robbery!;)

To Tony for sure the small screen DNA30 and 40 use the same screen i never changed a screen on a DNA20 but I have a feeling it's exactly the same oled panel.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 
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Mooch

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    One theory is that the DNA40 screen glitches are due to EMI at high currents. Your TI coils, having a higher resistance, don't require as much current, and thus the DNA doesn't produce as high a field strength. This theory would also explain why screen-glitches typically weren't caught during factory testing (even at full rated current) and why some mods were more prone to glitches than others, because orientation of the screen with respect to the board would affect the field strength seen by the screen.

    My thoughts exactly...but it can be so hard to track down!
     

    Mooch

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    Nice but why don't the clones glitch then? Mr. G. states that the glitch is a hardware problem in the screen itself so are the clone screens better?

    I already said I'm planning to replace my shot original dna screen with a clone screen (fingers crossed that it will work) but I wonder, if it works, would it also definitely cure the dna glitches?

    My last board hasn't had any glitch so I can't test it but it would be mind blowing if a clone screen could be the answer to the garbled screen issues.

    Regards
    Tony

    Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

    Perhaps the clones use a different manufacturer's screen? Same appearance, dimensions, and basic specs but one could be affected by EMI (interference) more than the other. This would be tough to track down, especially if you have hundreds or more of the one screen type already purchased.

    There's also the chance that there is a difference in how the clone boards use the same screen used by Evolv (if the screens are the same model). These screens require a few supporting components on the board in order to function properly. A couple of them filter out EMI from the power going to the screen and steady the voltage the power and ground lines. If these components weren't spec'ed properly for the rather severe operating environment these boards have to work in then there could be problems. Either accidently, or by design, the clones might have selected component values that work better in this operating environment than Evolv's board. Thus would appear to be a screen hardware issue for Evolv, but really isn't.

    With a bit of testing that would be an easy fix though for future board runs so I'm not sure what's going on.
     
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    Rossum

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    Yea, of course a Ti coil is physically half the size as well (6 wraps vs 12) so per Faraday's Law there would theoretically be half as much interference/potential EMI generated.
    I doubt the EMI comes from the coil itself, because what the coil sees is close to DC. It's far more likely coming from the traces on the board or from the big inductor in the switching section of the power converter. That's if it's EMI at all. It could also be a glitch in the power being supplied to the display, and the display being more sensitive to that than the manufacturer's spec sheet indicates it should be.
     
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