do LR attys kill ego batteries?
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Good analogy and thanks for the laugh! Now let's wait for the question----- "who do you think will win Ego's or LR Atty's?"
From all the post I've read about this subject, some pretty informed people have said yes and no. I'd say do it if you want, but not if it's your only device lol. That would make for a long ... week if it did kill your battery.
My bet is atty lol.
My bet is atty lol.
That's not what I'm reading here... I see Yes and Maybe, I have yet to see a definitive "no" from a well informed respondent.
I'm not sure if it depends on the brand or type of LR atty one would use on a particular eGo battery. I say that because my LR 306 atty hasn't compromised the lifespan or performance on either of my eGo 900s, which lasts about 9 - 10 hours, but using a LR Mega atty on them drains the hell out of em, to the point where it will get about 2 - 3 hours of vaping from a full charge. Contrary to that fact, using the LR Mega atty on my eGo USB 650 [purchased from a different vendor] lasts at least 8 hours on a full charge.
I have no formal reasoning for this, so I can't say one way or the other.
I have no formal reasoning for this, so I can't say one way or the other.
I'm sure someone has posted that massive thread about how they in fact do, I'm just here to confirm that after 5 months of LR use on my eGo batteries I've lost 2 to this problem.. It's a pain in the ..., ditched my ego over it.. I'm PVless
Bummer, I would take those odds, 2 batts 5 Months. That is not horribe, That might even be close to their standard mortality rate.
Jeff~
I knew this. I just didn't know how to get it written out so clearly.
Perfectly stated!!
Paula
The Chinese designed these things with electronics barely rated for the load. That's because the over-rated ones a robust design would use are more expensive. The Chinese excel at making things cheaply. That's one of the ways they do it. The other is cheap labor.
MOSFETs are kind of like light bulbs. Some burn out faster than others due to normal manufacturing tolerances. So, the combination of no breathing room for the tolerances and normal manufacturing variations results in switches that can burn out due to the load. Some may hold up fine, others may not. I've had them die using just a standard resistance atty. BTW, I've dissassembled both the Joye eGo and Joye 510 (ones that died for the reason I stated above). They use the exact same electronics in both devices. The only difference is the battery.
Regarding the comment about Li-Ion batteries not being designed to stand up to the task, actually that's not correct, they are the perfect battery for the task. They have low internal impedance (can deliver a lot of current for their size), they have high energy density (they hold a lot of power in a small package), they have no memory effect (no charge regiment is required), and they have a good cycle life (can be charged and discharged many times before they wear out).
MOSFETs are kind of like light bulbs. Some burn out faster than others due to normal manufacturing tolerances. So, the combination of no breathing room for the tolerances and normal manufacturing variations results in switches that can burn out due to the load. Some may hold up fine, others may not. I've had them die using just a standard resistance atty. BTW, I've dissassembled both the Joye eGo and Joye 510 (ones that died for the reason I stated above). They use the exact same electronics in both devices. The only difference is the battery.
Regarding the comment about Li-Ion batteries not being designed to stand up to the task, actually that's not correct, they are the perfect battery for the task. They have low internal impedance (can deliver a lot of current for their size), they have high energy density (they hold a lot of power in a small package), they have no memory effect (no charge regiment is required), and they have a good cycle life (can be charged and discharged many times before they wear out).
Did you check the resistance of the atty AFTER the MOSFET failed??? ;-)
Every time that I have seen this happen, I have been able to verify that the atty had "migrated" in resistance and was in the 1.1 Ohm range. This was true with (originally) LR atties, standard atties, and cartomizers.
I'm not saying it can't happen.. but I have yet to see a eGo or Riva battery system MOSFET fail due to an atty or cartomizer that was "still within spec".
Could be, I didn't measure, but normally, the resistance goes up as atomizers wear. In any case, there's no room to spare on those tolerances. The failure rate is high for these devices. I've experienced several myself. I've read of many people seeing failures without ever putting a low resistance atomizer on them.
I was in the "atty/cartomizer resistance will go up with use" camp myself.... until I started paying close attention to it and making regular measurements. I was surprised to see the resistance actually go DOWN on my atties and my wife's cartos. And in almost every case I can get the resistance "back in spec" with an extended dry-burn. So that tells you volumes right there. And I can tell you FOR SURE, that virtually every one of my Bauway LR atties will dip below 1.3 Ohms after limited use, and will continue to go down if I don't react in a timely fashion. And when they hit about 1.1 Ohms, due to a flaw in the design of the "short circuit protection" in the eGo class units... the MOSFET will fail (at 3A, the design limit for the MOSFET). The Vishay MOSFETs that I use as replacements can usually survive the 1.1 Ohm atties since they're good to about 4.6A. At about .9 Ohm the short circuit protection actually kicks in and the eGo will protect itself by shutting down.
Which has pretty much been my point all along. It's not just the LR atties that develop coil-shorts or get "carboned up".. dropping their resistance into the eGo-fatal-zone.
I mostly use Boge 3 ohm cartomizers. By the time I'm done with one, it's usually gained about 10% in resistance. I only use the LR atties occasionally when dripping. Whether resistance goes up or down could be a materials thing with a particular make/model of carto/atty. In any case, a good circuit design accounts for variations and abuse in its application. Obviously, the eGo design does not. The fact you're replacing components yourself proves that. I mean really, a properly designed circuit should last pretty much forever.
Scott,
I tried to send this by PM but your mailbox is full
Hi Scott,
I have this tester:
Industrial Tool Display Page
I set the dial to "Ohm 1xk" to do this.
When I adjust the dial on the case on the left and get the probes to read zero when touching each other, every atty I test says zero. If I adjust it to read 1 when clicking the probes together, then the atties read 1 =)
I have one atty that I swear is a LR one- the vapor and heat it produces are exemplary compared to all my other 510 attys. It works twice as good as the others. That's why I'd liek to be able to test it.
Thank you if you can tell me what I'm doing wrong with the tester!
Lori
Scott, I have a 4.5 ohm 801 atty that I've been tracking for two weeks as it has dropped to 3.9 and it's still dropping. I've changed camps as well.
My wife is a Boge carto user... getting them from both V4L and VaporNine (Ben.. Turbo's). She has popped two eGo/Riva MOSFETS over the last 6-9 months of vaping and I have resurrected both batteries. And in both cases I tested the offending cartos and they had dropped into the "dead zone" of ~1.1-1.0 Ohms. Once again supporting my personal belief that this is not a "LR Atomizer" issue. And that's all I've been saying (all along).
Scott,
I tried to send this by PM but your mailbox is full
Hi Scott,
I have this tester:
Industrial Tool Display Page
I set the dial to "Ohm 1xk" to do this.
When I adjust the dial on the case on the left and get the probes to read zero when touching each other, every atty I test says zero. If I adjust it to read 1 when clicking the probes together, then the atties read 1 =)
I have one atty that I swear is a LR one- the vapor and heat it produces are exemplary compared to all my other 510 attys. It works twice as good as the others. That's why I'd liek to be able to test it.
Thank you if you can tell me what I'm doing wrong with the tester!
Lori
Lori,
Sorry about the PM. That's what happens when you're popular.. ;-) Actually, tht's what happens when a lot of people send you PM's saying your full of beans!
That meter is an "old school" analog unit with only one resistance range.. 1KΩ. Although I don't have one.. I don't really know if it is going to give you sufficient resolution to read resistances in the range we're dealing with. yes, the scale would lead you to believe that it should...... but it just may not.
It sounds like you are doing it the right way. Set it on 1KΩ, touch the leads together and "zero" the meter (right side of the scale).. then put one lead on the center post (with the hole in it... center of the battery connector) of the atomizer and the other lead on the threads of the battery connector. You should get a meaningful reading at that point. If not..... I would suspect the meter.
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