Does the length of the resistence wire in a rebuildable atty change the resistence?

[MJTP]

I'm seeing everywhere things like 28ohms/ft and references to that more wire on a wick changes the resistance. However, I'm not sure if I'm interpreting this right. If I am, it proves that my battery is faulty. Grimmgreen helped me discover this. He built his own atty and only wrapped the coil around the wick about 3 times, and got what he described as a very acrid burnt taste, which is either from burning wick or burning juice. My pre-made wicks wick fine in my Protank and my claimed resistance is 2.5, nothing risky. But my juice tastes extremely burnt and acrid no matter what head I put on there; I've been through 7. Even if my wick stays wet like it should, a 4.8 volt would both burn the wick and eradicate the juice more than it should, giving the same effect as if I had a coil on my wick that was wrapped around there just a few times. My charger charges things at like 4.2, so if my battery is faulty and unregulated like VV devices aren't supposed to be, then this would seem what the problem is. Silica should wick fairly normal, it should work the same as if it was sitting in a rebuildable. I even pre-drip to make sure. And if the juice is too thick for silica wick to absorb, or if silica just isn't good, then quite frankly, I believe the vendors who make either would benefit having a good legal education before claiming the juice or device is meant for electronic vaping devices.

 

[OlDogNewTricks]

Hi, it's not quite that easy. The ratio of the juice effects it. How you vape it changes it. Personally, I rebuild my 20 gauge coils at around 1 ohm. I use cotton wicks (Peaches and Creme 100% cotton yarn, white). Don't wrap the coil too tight, I use a crochet needle (about 3mm diameter) to wrap the wire around (the petar k method, I believe it is called) 4 or 5 times and then install the coil and push the cotton through it. Make sure the wick is saturated before you use it. Make sure you check the resistance of the coil before you use it. Make sure you use batteries within their safety zone. Good luck and have fun!

 

[mightymen]

volts 4.8 x 4.8 = 23.04 divided by ohms 2.5 = watts 9.216

If you have variable volt device lower the volt to lowest setting and increase little at a time when you notice a change in flavor ETC; back off a little with volts..

 

[MJTP]

I'm vaping at a constant 3.2 with 2.5 Heads straight from Kanger, I'm no rebuilder. As I stated, I do all the pre-dripping steps, use well-known juice, and I am a very easy vaper concerning my draw and button time. I also let my tank sit forever between hits and filling.

 

[TomCatt]

What PV are you using?


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[MJTP]

Spinner 1300mAh.

 

[TomCatt]

Hmmm, could possibly be the battery. If you have a multimeter, you can check what voltage is actually being put out.


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[Ryedan]

Does the length of the resistence wire in a rebuildable atty change the resistence?

Yup. Longer wire = higher resistance. So, more coils = longer wire = more resistance. Also, longer tails on the coil = more reistance, but those tails are not on the wick, so don't make more vapor.

Thickness, or gauge, affects resistance also. Higher resistance wire is thinner.

I'm seeing everywhere things like 28ohms/ft and references to that more wire on a wick changes the resistance. However, I'm not sure if I'm interpreting this right. If I am, it proves that my battery is faulty. Grimmgreen helped me discover this. He built his own atty and only wrapped the coil around the wick about 3 times, and got what he described as a very acrid burnt taste, which is either from burning wick or burning juice. My pre-made wicks wick fine in my Protank and my claimed resistance is 2.5, nothing risky. But my juice tastes extremely burnt and acrid no matter what head I put on there; I've been through 7. Even if my wick stays wet like it should, a 4.8 volt would both burn the wick and eradicate the juice more than it should, giving the same effect as if I had a coil on my wick that was wrapped around there just a few times. My charger charges things at like 4.2, so if my battery is faulty and unregulated like VV devices aren't supposed to be, then this would seem what the problem is. Silica should wick fairly normal, it should work the same as if it was sitting in a rebuildable. I even pre-drip to make sure. And if the juice is too thick for silica wick to absorb, or if silica just isn't good, then quite frankly, I believe the vendors who make either would benefit having a good legal education before claiming the juice or device is meant for electronic vaping devices.

You've said a lot here. Here are the variables that I know make a difference in coil and wick performance:

Coil I.D.
Number of wraps of the coil.
Coil wire diameter (gauge).

Wick material.
Amount of wick in the coil, specially with cotton wicking.
Wick inside the coil or outside.

Air flow around or through the coil.
Ohm resistance of the coil.
The device the coil is going in.
Power applied to the coil when vaping.

Now, if you defined all these variables of a setup and asked me how to change some property of the vape, I could suggest what direction to go in.

All silica does not wick even close to similar. Silica wick does not burn. If your wick is burning, it is not silica. Your battery is not voltage regulated, your PV might be though.

As OlDogNewTricks said, 'it's not quite that easy'. But generally, if you put a pre-made coil on a common clearomizer you will get adequate results with the right power supply and the right power settings.

 

[mightymen]

I'm vaping at a constant 3.2 with 2.5 Heads straight from Kanger, I'm no rebuilder. As I stated, I do all the pre-dripping steps, use well-known juice, and I am a very easy vaper concerning my draw and button time. I also let my tank sit forever between hits and filling.

Looks as your doing it all right.

* Don't let your tank go past 1/2 empty time to re-fill.
* On your tank make sure your heads are screwed in snug to the base.

Was there ever a time that it all worked OK, if yes then I suggest the following.

Break it down in three different areas.

Jucie, Coil/wick, battery

Use a new juice with a fresh unused head, if it's ok then it's your battery

Now your left with only two areas to look at.

You know it's not the juice because you used fresh juice.

It should be somewhere in your tank between your heads wire or wick.

 

[yaypudding]

I'm guessing your rebuilding protank heads. You might have a hot leg or short. With 28 gauge, unless your making micro coils, a 2.5 ohm coil will be huge and might be shorting out in the head and creating a hot spot. This can cause that awful burnt taste, similar to when you have a hot spot on a gennie ss mesh coil.

You want to use 30-32 gauge kanthal when rebuilding protank heads. The wire is thinner and has a higher resistance so you won't need as many wraps to get your desired ohms, this will make the coil fit much easier into the protank base.

Make sure you dry burn and the coil glows evenly, if it doesn't you will get that awful taste. If you have a hot spot on your coil, use a screwdriver to space them out more evenly, this should help the coils glow evenly.