Dry burning built coil
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It's a good idea if you want more life out of your coils and not hard to do. You won't burn any rubber and a torch is not needed. Here is a video showing you how.
Vapor Lady Lounge Kanger eVod, Protank, MT3, Cleaning and Burning The Atomizer for Better Vaping - YouTube
Vapor Lady Lounge Kanger eVod, Protank, MT3, Cleaning and Burning The Atomizer for Better Vaping - YouTube
I dry burn mine... Short burns is the key to not burning the rubber grommet. I believe.
yepper, dry burn is great !
open it up, look down on the glob of gunk (where the coil should be)
start to pulse the fire button and watch it burn away
then after the smell and smoke clears,
No more glob, just a nice clean coil...
it is essential to my vaping, really does the trick
open it up, look down on the glob of gunk (where the coil should be)
start to pulse the fire button and watch it burn away
then after the smell and smoke clears,
No more glob, just a nice clean coil...
it is essential to my vaping, really does the trick
That is actually good to know. I was under the impression that dry burning a rebuilt protank coil would curse you to a life of burnt rubber taste from the insulator. I've kinda left Protanks behind after moving to a couple of cheap RBAs and my beloved Kayfun, but might rebuild a few Protank heads on my snow day tomorrow.
You can pre-burn the wire if you want, too. I find a simple pass through a candle flame until the wire glows red to be more than sufficient.
Note, the stiffness of the wire alters a little bit to be a bit more springy. Un-torched wire is easier for me to wrap, but others say it's harder. To each his own, I guess.
Note, the stiffness of the wire alters a little bit to be a bit more springy. Un-torched wire is easier for me to wrap, but others say it's harder. To each his own, I guess.
Here you go.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/490677-possible-stinky-grommet-replacement.html
I'm currently using the silicon tubing on the t3,t3s and pro tanks. No more burnt grommets. I believe the new heads from kanger use silicon grommets instead of the old rubber ones. But don't quote me as I haven't bought one for a some time.
But the best best fix would be to use nr wires for the legs. Unfortunately, it's a pain in the posterior region to fit into the small space of the kanger bases.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/490677-possible-stinky-grommet-replacement.html
I'm currently using the silicon tubing on the t3,t3s and pro tanks. No more burnt grommets. I believe the new heads from kanger use silicon grommets instead of the old rubber ones. But don't quote me as I haven't bought one for a some time.
But the best best fix would be to use nr wires for the legs. Unfortunately, it's a pain in the posterior region to fit into the small space of the kanger bases.
Thanks everyone!
I've seen a lot of people burn the coil before the use it for the first time (pre wick insertion). What exactly is the point of this? There's obviously no gunk on it to be begin with...
I've seen a lot of people burn the coil before the use it for the first time (pre wick insertion). What exactly is the point of this? There's obviously no gunk on it to be begin with...
Pre-heating, or annealing, the wire, stiffens it and makes it easier to turn your coil without it springing back into the shape it wants to be in. It also removes any excess crud left over from the manufacturing process.
I have been playing with microcoil builds in protank heads and I don't bother to dry burn them first, but I always test them first to make sure they aren't shorted.
On the other end, when it's time for a cleaning, I've had no problem dry burning the coil clean and re-wicking.
Whether or not you need to dry-burn vastly depends on the type of juice you're vaping. My 1st CE4 has seen nothing but my thinnest (high PG) liquids, and probably about 25mL. Never needed a dry-burn and still hits/tastes fine. I have another CE4 I've been using w/ a thick juice I got, and after 5mL or so, it's not hitting as good cuz the coil must be getting gunky. After this last tank full I'm gonna rinse/dry it out and dry-burn, and I'm sure it'll definitely burn some stuff off. I've dry-burned other coils that didn't need it, and nothing burns off, no smoke or anything.
There is a big difference between a dry burn and heating the wire before wrapping a coil. A dry burn is a way to help remove the build-up on an already used coil. As others have posted, no torch is necessary and it's a straight-forward process. One point though, after a dry burn, a final rinse is advisable to remove anything left on the coil or on the wicks (if using silica)
Heating (some say annealing although I am not sure if this is the correct technical term) the wire before building a coil can be done with a lighter, candle, gas stove, or a torch. I always do this when using 32ga. kanthal as I find it way too springy to get a good micro coil build. 28 and 30ga kanthal seem to have less springiness, so it might not be necessary.
When I've built my coils, I always meter them out and then fire them up with no wicks to get them nice and hot - then give them a squeeze with needle-nose to get the coils even and tight. This helps to remove any hot spots. I suppose some might call this process a dry burn as well.
Heating (some say annealing although I am not sure if this is the correct technical term) the wire before building a coil can be done with a lighter, candle, gas stove, or a torch. I always do this when using 32ga. kanthal as I find it way too springy to get a good micro coil build. 28 and 30ga kanthal seem to have less springiness, so it might not be necessary.
When I've built my coils, I always meter them out and then fire them up with no wicks to get them nice and hot - then give them a squeeze with needle-nose to get the coils even and tight. This helps to remove any hot spots. I suppose some might call this process a dry burn as well.
^ ^ ^
this says it about as simple and to the point as can be
- - - -
- pre burn to prepare the coil
- dry burn better clean of the coil than rinse
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