dry Gen
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An answer you will hear alot--but the dry hit is prolly from a hot spot.
I personally am using 200 superfine mesh.
Wick--have had great results with a solid tightly rolled wick, with just a pinhole down the center. There is a tutorial for NextGen and Sat22--i think the gentleman is Korean. He doesn't talk. He cuts out a wide but not tall rectangle out corner of mesh. Rolls from short side to long side, so it looks like there is a 'peg' on the end sticking in the tank of juice. I think this achieves the same effect as cutting the juice end at a 45 degree angle. If anything--i now get overwicking.
As far as the coil goes--however you wrap it--on the atty, off the atty, petar k--etc--not too tight. But def not too loose. Pulse out on low voltage or on a mechanical mod with a weak battery. Get your coil to light up perfect. Switch to higher voltage or fresh batteries. New shorts will creep up. That's ok, that is the point. Pulse it out, adjust the loops.
I have two thoughts. The reason why there always seems to be a hotleg at the top--is because your coil wrapping and installation is going nice and smooth--and then you have to jam tension nuts together. So--two pairs of needlenose pliers. Practice being able to jam them without having to struggle at it. I have DiDs and AgaT+, and a bunch of other cheep genny clones. I don't think that the hotleg has to do with distance from the center post to the wick. I was getting hotleg w the DiD as well--because it is so difficult to lock the jam nuts together at the pos pin.
Lastly--don't build too low ohmwise for your genny. If you are gurgling--prolly too high of ohms. But if your wick dries out too fast, but no hotspots--either add a wrap or go higher gauge wire.
Watch tutorials. Good Luck
I personally am using 200 superfine mesh.
Wick--have had great results with a solid tightly rolled wick, with just a pinhole down the center. There is a tutorial for NextGen and Sat22--i think the gentleman is Korean. He doesn't talk. He cuts out a wide but not tall rectangle out corner of mesh. Rolls from short side to long side, so it looks like there is a 'peg' on the end sticking in the tank of juice. I think this achieves the same effect as cutting the juice end at a 45 degree angle. If anything--i now get overwicking.
As far as the coil goes--however you wrap it--on the atty, off the atty, petar k--etc--not too tight. But def not too loose. Pulse out on low voltage or on a mechanical mod with a weak battery. Get your coil to light up perfect. Switch to higher voltage or fresh batteries. New shorts will creep up. That's ok, that is the point. Pulse it out, adjust the loops.
I have two thoughts. The reason why there always seems to be a hotleg at the top--is because your coil wrapping and installation is going nice and smooth--and then you have to jam tension nuts together. So--two pairs of needlenose pliers. Practice being able to jam them without having to struggle at it. I have DiDs and AgaT+, and a bunch of other cheep genny clones. I don't think that the hotleg has to do with distance from the center post to the wick. I was getting hotleg w the DiD as well--because it is so difficult to lock the jam nuts together at the pos pin.
Lastly--don't build too low ohmwise for your genny. If you are gurgling--prolly too high of ohms. But if your wick dries out too fast, but no hotspots--either add a wrap or go higher gauge wire.
Watch tutorials. Good Luck
Oh--and you will have better luck if your leads are running counterclockwise, then coil on wick 's's around clockwise, if you are looking down at the deck.
You're Welcome. Lotsa folks here to help. Jong Yeol Kim. That is his name. Great tutorials. Also--forgot to mention--test your coils with some juice. I drip some on the deck. If steam flys off the thing like a pressure cooker--prolly too loose a coil, or a loose wrap or gap. Or if you see a glowing coil while wick is saturated w juice--bad. After i get that sorted i put some juice in the tank, and see how that goes. And wick should slide in and out of wick hole with ease.
Yup. Ditto. Absolutely works the best for me as well.
Also agree 100%. Any hot leg is as a result of shorting somewhere between your posts, be it at a hot spot on the mesh, or at the connection point, whatever. Hot legs only result from shorting. If you place a coil between the posts with no mesh, you'll never see a hot leg. They only crop up once we've inserted the wick. And then only because of a short somewhere between those posts, most likely somewhere the coil contacts the mesh. If the only way a person can remedy a hot leg is by leaning the wick toward the center post, they're doing it wrong.
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