DSE801 Hard Draw

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500KV

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I bought some DSE801 atomizers from Runion direct and they have an extremely hard draw.
They're the type with the higher bridge and the SLB stamp on the positive terminal.
I don't see any air holes in them and wondered if all the air comes from the battery hole or what ?
They seem to work O.K., just the hard draw.
Anyone else noticed this ?
Wondered if an air hole could be drilled, etc., somewhere to lighten the draw ?
 

500KV

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Does this straw method have to do with the cartridge ?
That's the only one I could find.
I'm pretty sure my hard draw issue is an atomizer problem (as opposed to a cartridge problem).
The new ones I ordered don't have the 2 or 4 air holes you can see in the older atomizers and seem to depend solely on the battery air hole.
Then again, it might just be me.
 

crazyhorse

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The 801 atomizers are four hole but you can't see the the holes without taking the atomizer apart. The holes are hidden under the outer casing trim ring. They vent up through the silicon rubber gasket. If you want to look you can take a very narrow tipped punch and tap the inner casing out from the top. Then, if you want to see more, carefully separate the battery terminal housing from the inner casing. Be gentle and you won't break the wires but you'll be able to see how the air is fed.
 

500KV

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The 801 atomizers are four hole but you can't see the the holes without taking the atomizer apart. The holes are hidden under the outer casing trim ring. They vent up through the silicon rubber gasket. If you want to look you can take a very narrow tipped punch and tap the inner casing out from the top. Then, if you want to see more, carefully separate the battery terminal housing from the inner casing. Be gentle and you won't break the wires but you'll be able to see how the air is fed.

O.K. crazyhorse, thanks for the info.
How did you discover that BTW?
Maybe I just need to boil mine out.
 

crazyhorse

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I actually discovered all that when I got an atomizer that apparently has an undersized knurl which allowed the outer casing to break loose when I cranked down on it when screwing it into a mod box. The glue they use to secure the casing (beyond the mechanical grip of the knurl) gave it up and the casing came off in my hand leaving the atomizer fully intact on the battery box.

I learned more when I tried the same trick with another atomizer. That's when I learned that some casings are glued much better than others. With that one, the battery terminal stayed while the inner casing of the atomizer remained in the outer casing. This broke off the wires which I had to re-solder.

From the second experience I learned that the only safe way to deconstruct an atomizer (without soldering) is press the entire body of it out from the top. Now I hold the outer casing in my hand and use a 1/32" nail set to tap the atomizer body out of the casing. A tube of slightly less diameter than the outer casing, but still large enough to catch the rim of the inner casing would be a much better tool for this purpose. A 6mm x ¼" drive deep socket almost works but doesn't quite have the reach it needs.
 

500KV

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Mar 25, 2009
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I actually discovered all that when I got an atomizer that apparently has an undersized knurl which allowed the outer casing to break loose when I cranked down on it when screwing it into a mod box. The glue they use to secure the casing (beyond the mechanical grip of the knurl) gave it up and the casing came off in my hand leaving the atomizer fully intact on the battery box.

I learned more when I tried the same trick with another atomizer. That's when I learned that some casings are glued much better than others. With that one, the battery terminal stayed while the inner casing of the atomizer remained in the outer casing. This broke off the wires which I had to re-solder.

From the second experience I learned that the only safe way to deconstruct an atomizer (without soldering) is press the entire body of it out from the top. Now I hold the outer casing in my hand and use a 1/32" nail set to tap the atomizer body out of the casing. A tube of slightly less diameter than the outer casing, but still large enough to catch the rim of the inner casing would be a much better tool for this purpose. A 6mm x ¼" drive deep socket almost works but doesn't quite have the reach it needs.

Thanks for the info. crazyhorse.
You wouldn't have an idea why the draw suddenly got harder on this thing would you ?
It was fine when I started using it but got progressively harder over time.
Wonder if I could have cinched down on it too much and collapsed the positive terminal ?
 

500KV

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My guess would be it got flooded and built up some clogs in the four tiny little vent holes that come up though the gasket. This may also be effecting the battery vent if it was a sloppy solder job.

Sounds like your atomizer is due for a drain and clean anyway.
Yep, your right.
Tried a couple of new ones and they're fine.
Thanks for the help.
 

500KV

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I have discovered that pulling the contact out reduces the draw significantly on some 801 atomizers that have a different threading than the normal ones.
That was something I had wondered about but then forgot to try.
Thanks for the suggestion gashin.
I'm going to try that.
I'm giving mine a boiling lemon juice treatment as we speak. That needed to be done anyway.
 
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