Mine always leak whichever side I used. Any ill effect if a bit of silicon is applied to it before pressing it back on?
edit: br, those not soak in vinegar is fine the way I dry burn them
E2 Revision 4 Cartomizer Discussion
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Mine always leak whichever side I used. Any ill effect if a bit of silicon is applied to it before pressing it back on?
edit: br, those not soak in vinegar is fine the way I dry burn them
Where did my post go? Wait a minute and I'll try again.Mine always leak whichever side I used. Any ill effect if a bit of silicon is applied to it before pressing it back on?
edit: br, those not soak in vinegar is fine the way I dry burn them
You must be doing something wrong, heheh. I just did one a while ago and it does not even seep a wee bit.Mine always leak whichever side I used. Any ill effect if a bit of silicon is applied to it before pressing it back on?
edit: br, those not soak in vinegar is fine the way I dry burn them
Silicone should be okay. Maybe a food grade if available? I've thought about using plumber's Teflon paste, but have not had a need to try it.
I don't know about the vinegar. I'll have to investigate that one. I only have two with shrink wrap on the cup, but don't remember if either has been treated with vinegar. I'll have some more in a day or two, so will have more for running tests.
By the way, I am testing one right now that does not need shrink wrap on the cup. The wires have been rerouted and their holes are plugged. I am testing the second fill up at this moment with a different juice. So far it has been performing well with no leakage.
Food grade silicon? Don't think we can get those here. I cant even get ptb here although I really wish I can try some out..lol.
But atm I'm waiting for my friend to be really have some free time, so I can get him to machine some stuffs for me to make a plug and play juice tank for the core(whole coil stem). One tank, unplug gunk up coil and plugin a new one, all in 10 secs!! lol
edit: br, you are testing it on a standard tube or your brbada$$ supertanker..LOL
But atm I'm waiting for my friend to be really have some free time, so I can get him to machine some stuffs for me to make a plug and play juice tank for the core(whole coil stem). One tank, unplug gunk up coil and plugin a new one, all in 10 secs!! lol
edit: br, you are testing it on a standard tube or your brbada$$ supertanker..LOL
Food grade silicon? Don't think we can get those here. I cant even get ptb here although I really wish I can try some out..lol.
But atm I'm waiting for my friend to be really have some free time, so I can get him to machine some stuffs for me to make a plug and play juice tank for the core(whole coil stem). One tank, unplug gunk up coil and plugin a new one, all in 10 secs!! lol
edit: br, you are testing it on a standard tube or your brbada$$ supertanker..LOL
I've actually given some thought along the lines of what you will be having built. I'm sure you'll let us know how it turns out.
I'm testing it in the original tube with no other modifications. So far, I see no reason why the mod cannot be used for a production change. It should be cheaper, easier and faster to produce.
Ok got a real R4 loaded up with a PG mix and it vapes well. Doesn't seem to get dry other than the synthetic taste of PG that I'm not a big fan of. I'll have to play with some varied mixes of PG/VG together and see what I can get. PG definitely killed the huge plumes of vapor I was getting, but it's still more than I got with straight VG on an old atty. No burnt taste like I was getting before and I've got the cap fully seated to the cup, unaltered. Not bad.
FWIW I received my first batch of 3Ω 510 xl r4's from COV today. For testing purposes I filled the first one in stock condition with 65/35 TV waffle juice after a 10 second dry burn.
The results were satisfactory on my eGo until the cart tank was about half depleted. No primer or any other off taste.
I'm not prepared to disect one yet but I suspect, based on other reports, that the wick ends don't extend to the bottom of the tank. Anyway, I have in the last few minutes put 6 plies (3 plies folded)of ptb inside the same cart and topped off. I'm using it now.
My impression on the eGo is that 3Ω may be a tad high resistance wise - maybe 2.8 is a guess. I also wonder if the seat-of-their pants Chinese manufacturer is using the same wick assembly on the xl's as they are the shorts. Why else would they produce a unit where the wick falls so short of the bottom of the resevoir?
Bottom line is that they seem to be genuine r4's without any evidence of primer. My results at this point are maybe a notch down from what I've grown used to in the ptb modded r3's but that may be due to the level of resistance. My first one seems to perform very satisfactorily but I see little improvement over the r3's that I've used. Bear in mind my r4 experience is just beginning.
The results were satisfactory on my eGo until the cart tank was about half depleted. No primer or any other off taste.
I'm not prepared to disect one yet but I suspect, based on other reports, that the wick ends don't extend to the bottom of the tank. Anyway, I have in the last few minutes put 6 plies (3 plies folded)of ptb inside the same cart and topped off. I'm using it now.
My impression on the eGo is that 3Ω may be a tad high resistance wise - maybe 2.8 is a guess. I also wonder if the seat-of-their pants Chinese manufacturer is using the same wick assembly on the xl's as they are the shorts. Why else would they produce a unit where the wick falls so short of the bottom of the resevoir?
Bottom line is that they seem to be genuine r4's without any evidence of primer. My results at this point are maybe a notch down from what I've grown used to in the ptb modded r3's but that may be due to the level of resistance. My first one seems to perform very satisfactorily but I see little improvement over the r3's that I've used. Bear in mind my r4 experience is just beginning.
Got my "R 4" 's from COV today. Gonna test 1 510 and 1 808 au natural.
More to come......
BTW these say they are 2.5 oms
More to come......
BTW these say they are 2.5 oms
I just filled my second stock unit with ~100% vg juice. It's doing fine at the moment again with no off taste after a 10 second on so dry burn. I was was more than satisfied with my r3's. Whether or not the r4's give me greater performance or not I will never go back to filler cartos.
The R4's are less likely to leak. Otherwise the performance should be the same if they have the same resistance. Too bad that so many of them have shorter wicks.
Update on PG, so far it's been consistent, unlike with the VG.
I think what some people using "VG" are confused about is what ever is used for thinning. Unless you're mixing your own, you're not getting 100% VG. Technically I'm not even getting 100% VG because most flavors are diluted in PG. liquid suppliers have to dilute their juice with something when using VG. Sometimes it's PGA, sometimes it's PG otherwise it's distilled water.
I think what some people using "VG" are confused about is what ever is used for thinning. Unless you're mixing your own, you're not getting 100% VG. Technically I'm not even getting 100% VG because most flavors are diluted in PG. liquid suppliers have to dilute their juice with something when using VG. Sometimes it's PGA, sometimes it's PG otherwise it's distilled water.
On the first unit that I modded with ptb I flipped the filler ring so that the flat side is seated against the cup. I don't want to mess with aligning the wick notches, saw no advantage with the r3.5 and see no advantage now. No leaks. With both r4's I've tried I've tossed the smaller ring between the mothpiece and filler ring altogether. With the r3's and now the r4's I've seen no useful purpose for it.
The smaller ring can be an advantage if your vapor produces a good bit of condensation. It will direct it back in to the cup for reuse instead of accumulating on a flat surface and possibly be drawn in your mouth. It's easy to do without it if most of your vaping is done with the battery pointed down somewhat or in a vertical position.
Thanks. I'll keep that in mind but so far condensation hasn't presented itself as any problem with the juices I'm using.
Me either. Condensation is totally out of it.
Maybe it's because my mouthpiece is slightly smaller diameter than the big old cartos and drip tips? You should try it, it's the small tube they sell at lowe's. The smaller diameter mouth piece has less inner surface area, and less inner volume, than the big ol' carto shells and drip tips.
That, and then the vapor gap, and finally the slight angleat which I have the mouthpiece, causes any posssible condensation to do absolutely nothing bad.
Maybe it's because my mouthpiece is slightly smaller diameter than the big old cartos and drip tips? You should try it, it's the small tube they sell at lowe's. The smaller diameter mouth piece has less inner surface area, and less inner volume, than the big ol' carto shells and drip tips.
That, and then the vapor gap, and finally the slight angleat which I have the mouthpiece, causes any posssible condensation to do absolutely nothing bad.
The hole in the mouthpiece that I am using at this very moment is much smaller than yours, John. I see condensation on the wall of my bottle. I also saw it on the wall of a smaller bottle. I can tilt my mouthpiece to your position and it does not change a thing. I also have condensation problems with an XL that is used just like it came new out of the package. I do not know all the reasons why, but I do know that what works for you may not work for everyone else.
I have seen condensation sometimes Br, but at and angle and with the gap, I'm hoping that it will not drip into the tiny air stem hole which is guarded by the thick wick.
When I did get a leak, I'm guesing it was because the centerpost moved slightly.
I also had to change batteries and grab a fresh one, and pushed the centerpost contact back out.
Also the hole in your mouthpiece is small, but is the mouth piece tube small like it is on mine? The small mouth piece tube has less everything inside, less volume and less surface area to hold condenstaion.
edit/add-
Now condensation in the bottle itself is something probably not to worry about, I was thinking that the worries were about condensation falling into the air stem.
When I did get a leak, I'm guesing it was because the centerpost moved slightly.
I also had to change batteries and grab a fresh one, and pushed the centerpost contact back out.
Also the hole in your mouthpiece is small, but is the mouth piece tube small like it is on mine? The small mouth piece tube has less everything inside, less volume and less surface area to hold condenstaion.
edit/add-
Now condensation in the bottle itself is something probably not to worry about, I was thinking that the worries were about condensation falling into the air stem.
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Your juice recipe may not condense as much as mine. However, the thick vapor you see in your bottle also gets in the the cup. If it is not excessive, it will not drip in the intake passage. Look inside the bottom of the cup. You should see a groove something like the underside of a rubber mouthpiece. This will catch most of the condensation.
I can't say for sure, but your "leak" could possibly be condensation. For a while back there, I thought I had a leak too.
Ah, ok, now I'm understanding the details.
Ok, well my immediate thought about this now is that maybe some of you may be leaving vast amounts of vapor in there.
Most of the time I do not,
I turn the coil off a moment before the sip ends, so that I leave no superfluous vapor inside the bottle.
If you leave a superfluous cloud in the bottle, then yes, I can see a rain storm everywhere in the mod now.
That's my initial thought, but let's see what happens next.
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