Not here ..just tightening it up..EA is aware of the issue..sending me a new switch but probably just a minor adjustment to make in production.. haven't had any problem since i put it back.. Nice mod!
Ea mod
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Not here ..just tightening it up..EA is aware of the issue..sending me a new switch but probably just a minor adjustment to make in production.. haven't had any problem since i put it back.. Nice mod!
That is odd.. everything sit flush on mine. both of my dids, my rsst, my did clones. In the pic, the did is on the EA on the right, it sits flush.
Can't be done on mine... Only my IGO-L's will go flush on it..
Am wondering if the airflow controller top cap has "deeper" threading:
Am wondering if the airflow controller top cap has "deeper" threading:
where did you buy your EA? The air control top cap looks to be expensive and since I only use rba's with the air hole in the cap, it wouldn't do any good for me, plus I don't like the way it looks. Your did won't screw all the way down with the pin out?
I got it directly from Finnvape. Actually, the DID goes on flush... My bad.
But the AC9 and the Ody clone? Nope... a bit over a millimeter gap:
Yeah -something seems wrong there - I can get my Did Clone, RSST and Aga-T2 flush with the top.. Probably obvious question here and I am sure you are already. but just in case.. you are screwing the device into the head off of the tube first and then screwing the head/device assembly onto the mod - correct? If you are doing that I would contact EA cause it's a floating pin and should fit just about any 510 connection flush..They seem like pretty good guys to me and will probably get it sorted out for you .. That AC9 (which looks awesome on yours by the way!)..should sit down nicely if the cheapo RSST does...
Your probably right .. not quite fortunate enough to have an AC9..yet..working on it 
even with the gap .. it looks awesome!
even with the gap .. it looks awesome!
A word of caution....I've just destroyed a Phoenix by over tightening my EA. The adjustable pin in the top, it went right up into the bottom of the Phoenix and caused a hard short. I did the same thing twice with a did clone. I would imagine this could happen with any device with the adjustable pin. I'm now much more careful of how far I tighten the EA when using these rbas. My dids and the rsst can be tightened down snug with no problem but not the Phoenix or the clones.
I remember in pbusardos aga t building tutorial, he said that he had messed up the bottom insulator in one of his agas by over tightening his EA.
If you're using a rsst, be careful...the center pin in the rsst screws down through the atty and has a sharp point to it. It can and will dig into the adjustable pin in the top of the EA. I filed the sharp point off of mine.
I remember in pbusardos aga t building tutorial, he said that he had messed up the bottom insulator in one of his agas by over tightening his EA.
If you're using a rsst, be careful...the center pin in the rsst screws down through the atty and has a sharp point to it. It can and will dig into the adjustable pin in the top of the EA. I filed the sharp point off of mine.
Thanks for the heads up Donnah. I noticed that with my AGA-T that the center pin can push up into the atomizer. Caution is advised. Luckily I haven't had a short.
Here is my EA with the nimbus. My only gripe is the trigger button getting hot. Does any get this?
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I've had my button get hot exactly 3 times. In each time, I discovered that I had over tightened the EA to the point where the adjustable pin in the top connection actually went up into the rba that was on top. It happened twice with a did clone and last night I ruined a phoenix. It looks like in some rba's, if you keep tightening it till it stops, the top pin will just keep going up into the rba. with the did clone, the center post was pushed up and it shredded the bottom insulator. With the phoenix, when I tightened it, the pin went up into it, pushing up the two posts. In each incidence, when I did this and then tried to fire the EA, the button went extrememly hot, I knew immediately that something was wrong.. no mistaking it. When I took the clone and the phoenix off and tried it on the Provari, the Provari read "OP"
So check your nimbus to make sure you haven't overtightened the EA and pushed the pin up into the device. Make sure your device that you put on top of it is assembles correctly. A short at the coil may give some heat for a few seconds while setting up the coil but nothing like the extreme hot that comes off the button when there's a short in the device itself. If you keep trying to fire it with the hard short in it.. you will probably damage the batt and the mod. This also happened to me a while back when I first got my DID and was trying to put it together, the provari kept reading "OP" and I knew I had put something together wrong. The EA doesn't have any such protection so I have to rely on the button temp. I haven't noticed any heat at all coming off my button except in these 3 distinct instances.
I may be totally off base on all of this.. I'm just relating my recent experiences with this issue. I'm thinking that its not just the EA... I don't know what the other mods adjustable pins look like, but with the EA, that center pin is just the right size to push up into the 510 connection. So I would assume that this could happen with any device with an adjustable center pin.
Yep, a hot button usually means a short. You could also be pushing your batteries too hard for the resistance you're using.
Personally I put a shortstop in all of mechanical mods. My other mechanical has an adjustable center pin which is a screw. To adjust it I have to take the atomizer off adjust the screw (hope I got it right) and put the atomizer back on to test it. Not bad but I prefer the EA MOD's center pin. With the other one the atomizer won't sit flush no matter what I do. Not a problem with the EA. Because the battery is pushing against the center pin you do have to be careful that it doesn't push up into the 510 connection on the atomizer. Just don't over tighten and it should be fine.
Personally I put a shortstop in all of mechanical mods. My other mechanical has an adjustable center pin which is a screw. To adjust it I have to take the atomizer off adjust the screw (hope I got it right) and put the atomizer back on to test it. Not bad but I prefer the EA MOD's center pin. With the other one the atomizer won't sit flush no matter what I do. Not a problem with the EA. Because the battery is pushing against the center pin you do have to be careful that it doesn't push up into the 510 connection on the atomizer. Just don't over tighten and it should be fine.
I use aw imr's and run my coils around 1ohm. I had a shortstop in the EA when I over tightened and shorted out the did clone.. it wasn't pretty when the stopstop activated.. smoke came out from the bottom of the EA and the smell lingered for hours. It's supposed to reset itself but I haven't tried it since.
I've been tempted to cause a hard short to test the shortstop. I haven't done it. I guess it did it's job in your instance. I use aw imr's as well in my mods.
Was curious and decided to put the shortstop in to see if it still works.. it doesn't. so much for resetting itself.
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