Easy OKR-T VV mod

[Dandafixr]

i am not using it to fire the atomiser, i am going to put a mom push button for that. i just want the switch to be in the "running" position (everything on and waiting for the pushbutton to activate it) and down i want the meter and regulator to be on only so the voltage can be adjusted without the atty firing while you do it and the middle everything off. so there will be MOM pushbutton switch also in the circuit that will actually do the firing of the atomiser when the switch is in the up position. when the switch is in the down position i would like the okr unit and meter to power on without needing to push the MOM pushbutton and also without firing the atty while adjusting the voltage and possibly frying a carto

 

[Java_Az]

Ok i was pretty close thought you wanted the slide switch to fire the atty. My schematic will still work just slap the momentary switch in the loop that goes from the top pole on the right side of the switch to the bottom pole. That will give you everything you want.

 

[skipdashu]

i am not using it to fire the atomiser, i am going to put a mom push button for that. i just want the switch to be in the "running" position (everything on and waiting for the pushbutton to activate it) and down i want the meter and regulator to be on only so the voltage can be adjusted without the atty firing while you do it and the middle everything off. so there will be MOM pushbutton switch also in the circuit that will actually do the firing of the atomiser when the switch is in the up position. when the switch is in the down position i would like the okr unit and meter to power on without needing to push the MOM pushbutton and also without firing the atty while adjusting the voltage and possibly frying a carto

You'd be better of using a low amp momentary switch on the enable pin of the regulator and leaving it out of this (as I assumed you would in my original post). Only diff from what you've said here is that you would have to push the momentary switch in the down position... it just wouldn't apply power to the atty connection.

Using a momentary switch in the B+ circuit might mean it has to handle full amp draw of the regulator. What do you intend the momentary switch to connect to? The enable pin or the V+ input pin on the regulator? I think Java_AZ had it shown in the preferred configuration.

 

[Dandafixr]

i have 12 volt 6 amp mom switches to use for the activation of the atty, that will be sufficient wont it?

 

[meatsneakers]

Yes that will work fine. Remember you're switching a higher voltage but lower amperage on the battery side, so even a 12v/3A switch would be more than enough.

 

[hificat101]

What is the capacitor value you guys are using on the OKT-R regulators? I've poked through the thread, and it looks like 10uf, but can it be 100uf? Also, are you putting caps on the input and output.

Thanks

 

[bstedh]

A capacitor is not required, However if you are going to use one voltage rating is the important part.

Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2

 

[hificat101]

So I guess my question would be, is it alright to use 100uf 16v tantalum caps, and should it go on input, output or both?

BTW thanks.

 

[bstedh]

you can put one on the input to ease battery draw but other than that you gain nothing on output.

Sent from my NookColor using Tapatalk 2

 

[Robert T]

Is your original OKR mod still working?

 

[bstedh]

Kinda, it has been ripped down and rebirthed in a couple of different bodies. It is actuay being preped to go into a wood box right now. I just never seem to have the time latley to finish it. The originall soldering iron body is still in my parts bin. I just wantwd to upgrade from the 14500 batteries.

Sent from my NookColor using Tapatalk 2

 

[Hanus]

This was very easy to build. And works just great! Thanks for schematics.

 

[jimbalny]

Hey, I'm trying to figure out the positive logic on the ON/OFF pin and another thread I saw with a diagram made absolutely no sense to me in regards to the standard (not "E") version. If someone can help me out I'd REALLY appreciate it! I know you can use a NC switch between the on/off pin and ground but I'd like to use any NO switch I have. So from what I get from the datasheet:

ON = +1.5 V. to +Vin max. or open pin
OFF = –0.3 to +0.4 V. max. or ground pin

Positive polarity models are enabled when the On/Off pin is left open or is
pulled high to +Vin with respect to –Vin. Positive-polarity devices are disabled
when the On/Off is grounded or brought to within a low voltage (see Specifi cations) with respect to –Vin.
Dynamic control of the On/Off function should be able to sink appropriate
signal current when brought low and withstand appropriate voltage when
brought high. Be aware too that there is a fi nite time in milliseconds (see
Specifi cations) between the time of On/Off Control activation and stable,
regulated output. This time will vary slightly with output load type and current
and input conditions

What I'd basically need to do is apply a voltage lower than VIN, with say a 10kohm resister wired from Vin to the ON/OFF pin and have the switch wired to Vin voltage to bring it high or on?

 

[skipdashu]

Hey, I'm trying to figure out the positive logic on the ON/OFF pin and another thread I saw with a diagram made absolutely no sense to me in regards to the standard (not "E") version. If someone can help me out I'd REALLY appreciate it! I know you can use a NC switch between the on/off pin and ground but I'd like to use any NO switch I have. So from what I get from the datasheet:



What I'd basically need to do is apply a voltage lower than VIN, with say a 10kohm resister wired from Vin to the ON/OFF pin and have the switch wired to Vin voltage to bring it high or on?

Does this help? http://skipsjunk.net/linked-pics/VV_PV3+wire.sch - gschem.jpg

I think it shows what you are describing but also has the Zener in it to shut the thing off when the batts drop below ~6.35v.

 

[jimbalny]

That does help alot! Much simpler than I thought, thanks!

 

[jimbalny]

The only thing that confused me about that is that basically theres wasted current going through that resistor when the button is pushed. then i did the calculation and its .00084 amps at full battery charge.

 

[skipdashu]

The only thing that confused me about that is that basically theres wasted current going through that resistor when the button is pushed. then i did the calculation and its .00084 amps at full battery charge.

With or w/o the zener?

 

[jimbalny]

with and without

 

[jimbalny]

Unless I'm wrong, in which case I need to brush up on my DC circuit theory. Maybe its time for me to go back to the basics
Well also, there would be some voltage drop across the zener diode too which would reduce that right?

 

[skipdashu]

Unless I'm wrong, in which case I need to brush up on my DC circuit theory. Maybe its time for me to go back to the basics
Well also, there would be some voltage drop across the zener diode too which would reduce that right?

That's what I was thinking.