PPC200ZCT-ND 200 ohm resistor Thats the one I bought. I believe it is 200ohms . My meter is reading .200K ohms. If my math is right, .200K ohms is 200 ohms right? I thought it was just .200 till I looked at it again.
Easy OKR-T VV mod
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1k ohms = 1000 ohms, so 0.200k is 200ohms. Your meter should have a reg ohm setting maybe that will read it as 200ohms. At least most meters do not sure what you got.
my meter just have one ohm setting. It a digital meter. I just chekec my wiring over and over again and its right. I dunno whats going on with this thing. Pretty nice sparks coming out of atty. No, I did not vape it. I only had one atty that was already fried and it lit up with this 6.88 volts. lol
So it sounds as if the converter is working as expected with a 200 Ohm resistor. What pot are you using? If you turn the pot so the total resistance including the resistor and pot is closer to 300Ohms (Trim pin to Ground), what output voltage do you get? You do not need an atty installed until you get this working correctly.
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Seeing as none work you are doing something wrong.
Well it's running wide open at 6.8V, to lower the volts you need to raise the resistance above the 220Ω fixed (you don't have to search out a 218Ω one). So basically it's your trimmer/pot. Seeing as it's happening on more than one, it must be your wiring. Make sure you are attached to the wiper, and one of the end legs. Which one you use will determine which way to turn to increase the resistance (and the voltage) CW or CCW.
So basically W + A or B. It almost sound like you are hooked up to just A+B.
If you've one leg floating free like bstedh shows make sure it's not the wiper and make sure the 220Ω fixed is in series. CapeCad takes a slightly different approach but both should work fine.
Look hard at the diagram in the first post.
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I would second the double checking the wiring. My first attempt I had a short across the resistors and was getting full voltage. This was caused by using too small a gauge of wire and too much heat from the iron. Two wires melted together and it was not obvious just looking at it. I had to pull the power and check continuity on all of the traces and wires to find it.
Thing is when I did it the first time, it works. then my battery connector got wasted so I replaced it and it still work. Since I was in the mood to solder, I decided to make a second one and that one failed with the troubles I stated. I wired it exactly the same as the first one. Then I gave up cuz I am working 13 hr days. Is it possible to damage the regulator by excess heat while soldering? I am not the best at soldering I just learned bout 2 months ago I think. But I will check my wires again. I miss my vv lol. Its only been 2 days. I gonna eat dinner then fudge around with this wiring. You guys are very helpful. And I bought all the stuff that was listed in the first post. I guess I got lucky on the first one. lol
Yeah you can hurt just about anything electrical by heating it up too long while soldering. Data sheet has this to say about soldering the module ,
Soldering Guidelines
Murata Power Solutions recommends the specifications below when installing these converters. These specifications vary depending on the solder type. Exceeding these specifi cations may cause damage to the product. Your production environment may differ; therefore please thoroughly review these guidelines with your process engineers.
Wave Solder Operations f o r through-hole mounted products ( THMT )
Here is a Pic of it the copy and paste of the info didnt work very well
Soldering Guidelines
Murata Power Solutions recommends the specifications below when installing these converters. These specifications vary depending on the solder type. Exceeding these specifi cations may cause damage to the product. Your production environment may differ; therefore please thoroughly review these guidelines with your process engineers.
Wave Solder Operations f o r through-hole mounted products ( THMT )
Here is a Pic of it the copy and paste of the info didnt work very well
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Sorry all, I was so tired from working yesterday I didn't even eat dinner. I rewired my pot and it the same. I going out to RS in a couple hrs to buy a breadboard and do a test with no solder and then I will for sure know if my wiring is wrong or I am just destroying my regulator with excess heat.
I wired it on breadboard and seems like I getting 7.11 on high end of pot and 6.47 on low end. 7.11 in the middle. I did it exactly like the diagram. I am so irritated by this thing. Ah and I am almost out of juice too. I did neg on the A and then neg on the B of my pot. Resistor on the Wiper hooked up to pin 1 of the regulator. Pin 2 is pos bat. connector. pin 3 is the neg batt connector, neg battery contact and the A or B on pot. pin 4 is going to the switch. Other side of switch goes to the pos battery contact. Its no that hard but I seem to be missing something I guess. If my regulator is busted, that means all 4 is busted cuz I tried it on all 4. Same thing every time.
Wiper should be going to pin 5 , Pin 1 should be let open/ or not used. Sounds like you got it set up backwards. I doubt all 4 regs are bad
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Did you remove the connection from the pot to V+?
Do you measure >218 ohms between ground and pin 5?
Recommendation: Do not keep trying all of your devices, get one working first. The fact you are getting an output means you did not blow the converter yet. When it goes you will not get any output at all.
Do you measure >218 ohms between ground and pin 5?
Recommendation: Do not keep trying all of your devices, get one working first. The fact you are getting an output means you did not blow the converter yet. When it goes you will not get any output at all.
Ugh my battery dead on phone.... Anyways I made one just like the diagram long wires and I spliced together the grounds not even soldering it and it works. Ah great. Now I I just have to duplicate the work I just did with shorter wires. I still don't understand why its not working before. BUT before I can say it truely working I must make it all fit in my box first. Give me about 45 mins and it should be done.
YAY. it is done. Took longer than expected. I did everything only to have to replace the switch. I not making another till next weekend for sure lol. It works. Thanks all. I have no idea where the mistake was but its fixed.
YAY. it is done. Took longer than expected. I did everything only to have to replace the switch. I not making another till next weekend for sure lol. It works. Thanks all. I have no idea where the mistake was but its fixed.
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Hello everyone,
I'm in the final stages of putting together my own OKR VV box mod - dual 18650, juice feeder etc but I would like the charging to be done 'in the box'. I found this charger which will charge the two li-ions in series. My question is, can I vape while the pack is charging? Will vaping while the batteries are still charging damage the charger/regulator?
I'm in the final stages of putting together my own OKR VV box mod - dual 18650, juice feeder etc but I would like the charging to be done 'in the box'. I found this charger which will charge the two li-ions in series. My question is, can I vape while the pack is charging? Will vaping while the batteries are still charging damage the charger/regulator?
That will for sure charge a couple 18650's in series. The Charge controller is built into the adapter. Wont hurt the charger or regulator to vape off it while charging. But it might kick the charger into overload protection. If that happens it might reset itself or you could possibly have to unplug the charger for a few seconds then plug it back in to start charging again.Someone awhile back said they were going to use one of those maybe he will chime in with his results.
Well I believe you would need the correct 'pack' to use that charger.
All-Battery.com: Tenergy Li-Ion 18650 7.4V 2200mAh Rechargeable Battery Module w/ PCB Protection
Or get one of these if you want to use other cells.
All-Battery.com: Protection Circuit Module (PCB) for 7.2V Li-ion 18650 / 18500 Battery Packs 3.5A Working (5A cut-off) w/ Gas Gauge port
All-Battery.com: Tenergy Li-Ion 18650 7.4V 2200mAh Rechargeable Battery Module w/ PCB Protection
Or get one of these if you want to use other cells.
All-Battery.com: Protection Circuit Module (PCB) for 7.2V Li-ion 18650 / 18500 Battery Packs 3.5A Working (5A cut-off) w/ Gas Gauge port
Thank you for the help. I put together the box mod a few days ago and it works great. The batteries charge fine without the PCB you posted WillyB, staying withing .02 volts of each other during charge. I use AW 18650 protected batteries though, so I'm not too worried and I will be swapping their position in the box every few day to make sure they get an equal voltage during discharge.
I have one last question for the gurus in this thread - since the converter is ON when pin 5 is open, and OFF when it is connected to ground, can I use a normally closed switch connected to pin 5 and ground to keep the converter off? Pushing it would break the circuit and turn the converter on correct? I am trying to figure out ways to expand my switch options, as 3A+ switches are too large for my next project with this awesome OKR regulator - a smaller 14500 box I have in mind. Thanks again.
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Looking over the data sheet again, it seems applying a voltage upto Vin to pin 5 is also acceptable. Would it be possible to have pin 5 connected to ground, then have a normally open switch running from the battery through the switch to pin 5?
I have one last question for the gurus in this thread - since the converter is ON when pin 5 is open, and OFF when it is connected to ground, can I use a normally closed switch connected to pin 5 and ground to keep the converter off? Pushing it would break the circuit and turn the converter on correct? I am trying to figure out ways to expand my switch options, as 3A+ switches are too large for my next project with this awesome OKR regulator - a smaller 14500 box I have in mind. Thanks again.
edit-
Looking over the data sheet again, it seems applying a voltage upto Vin to pin 5 is also acceptable. Would it be possible to have pin 5 connected to ground, then have a normally open switch running from the battery through the switch to pin 5?
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