Efest VS AW

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D4rk50ul

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The AW IMR 18650 1600MAH should outperform the MNKE it's higher capacity and rated at 24amp constant discharge. Not so sure I would use an NCR cell in a >0.6ohm setup you are going to be pulling some serious amps on a mech.

Still think Samsung INR18650-20R > AW IMR 18650 1600mah > MNKE IMR 18650 for SLR coils.
 

xbassman

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Efest and AW's arrived today, charged up and ready to vape!

is it true I should store them drained and they will last longer?

It's my understanding that your bats should be stored around 3.6-3.8V for extended periods.
If you are using them, I would just keep them charged.

I don't know if it pertains to our batteries since our devices and sometimes our batteries have protection against draining too low, but leaving li on batteries in a completely drained state for a length of time can damage them.
 

Thompson

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Efest and AW's arrived today, charged up and ready to vape!

is it true I should store them drained and they will last longer?

As xbassman mentioned its better to store them with a partial charge.

My Panny CGR-CHs showed up with a 3.6v charge. Since the device I purchased them for hasn't shown up yet (today/tomorrow finally!) I never put them on the charger. I monitor their voltage occasionally just to see if they've lost any, but after 1.5 - 2 months they are still at 3.6 volts.

Battery University says 40% area is good.

If I'm not going to use a device for an extended period I take the battery out. Not sure if it matters, if the button isn't pressed it isn't going to consume any electricity AFAIK. But I do think that if say the low voltage warning light comes on and blinks on forever, it could drain the batteries lower than the 3.2v cutoff most use.
 

madstabber

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I have found I am getting a little more battery life now that I wait to charge my batteries after I take them out of my PV. Also when they are done charging let them sit for a while too. About an hour after use before you charge them and an hour to use them after charging and I am getting about 3-4 more hours out of them. Just a tip I read somewhere so I thought I would pass it on.
 

jasl90

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It is a good idea to remove batteries from any device if it isn't going to be used for a long time. Pretty much any battery can corrode at the positive end and foul the internals of the device. I'm pretty sure everyone's had to clean dried battery acid out of a remote at one time or another...

As far as a "turned off" PV draing the battery... No, mechanicals will not. Their circuit is completely open, so no power is being consumed. Regulated PVs, on the other hand, are constantly drawing a small amount of power even while they are turned off. They have to be on, at least a little bit, so they can recognize and process a command to turn on...
 

jasl90

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So how much power would a regulated mod be drawing and is it enough to drain the battery over a few weeks?

I think that would depend on the specific mod and what internal operations are taking place while its power off.
Is it enough to drain the battery in a few weeks?... Yea, probably... Especially if the battery didn't a full charge to begin with, when it was put away.
 

Rader2146

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Unless your battery is extremely low when you stop using it, it isn't likely that it will drop to critical levels (<2.5v) over a couple weeks. The standby current if most modern voltage regulators is less the 100uA (.1 mA). IIRC, the Provari is around 90uA and the ZMax/VAMO/SVD/ect.. VV/VW devices are around 20uA.

To put it in perspective, @100uA a 2000mAh battery would take 2.3 YEARS to discharge from full charge to 2.5v.
 

jasl90

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Unless your battery is extremely low when you stop using it, it isn't likely that it will drop to critical levels (<2.5v) over a couple weeks. The standby current if most modern voltage regulators is less the 100uA (.1 mA). IIRC, the Provari is around 90uA and the ZMax/VAMO/SVD/ect.. VV/VW devices are around 20uA.

To put it in perspective, @100uA a 2000mAh battery would take 2.3 YEARS to discharge from full charge to 2.5v.

Great info Raider. I knew there was a small draw while off but didn't know the specific numbers.

Here is another post regarding the same issue...
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/provari/387197-check-battery-function-disturbing-number.html

The OP is this thread stated that his Mini went from 3.5 to 3.0 in the course of 5 days...
 

xbassman

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When my Mini gets below 3.0 it stops vaping...

That's a safety feature. (most of these batteries should never go below 2.5V)
It just means it's time to charge.
Besides that, to prolong the life of your batteries, it's a good idea not to let them get below 3.2V on a regular basis.
 

Rader2146

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Great info Raider. I knew there was a small draw while off but didn't know the specific numbers.

Here is another post regarding the same issue...
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/provari/387197-check-battery-function-disturbing-number.html

The OP is this thread stated that his Mini went from 3.5 to 3.0 in the course of 5 days...

That is a little odd. The AW 18350's have a very flat discharge curve that might lead one to believe that 3.5V is more than it really is, so based on the curve...

AW%20IMR%2018350%20700mAh%20(Red)-Capacity.png


I'd estimate about 120mAh (15%) remaining at 3.5V. That means that over the period of 5 days (120 hours) the battery would be draining at 1mA....10x the rate that was measured by a couple of smart German guys were I read the ~90uA rate. Of course this is all conjecture and there are many variables unknown, but 1mA seems awfully high to me. Especially given the top notch electronics used in the Provari.
 
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Tommy Aces

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I had no idea AW was just one guy! Thats crazy...

Yeah ProVape recommend AW for use in their ProVari and it could void warranty using another brand.

How long do you think I can vape at 6V on full charge from a 18350 AW?

That is not true. On ProVape's site, yes they reccomend the AWs (which they happen to be selling there), but if you look at the manual for the ProVari, it reccomends a single 3.7v high drain IMR battery. What can void the warranty is using magnetic spacers, stacking batteries (don't know why anyone would try that in a ProVari anyway), or using batteries with the wrong chemistry.

And even if the warranty MYTH were true, how exactly would ProVape know which brand of IMR you were using anyway? And on top of that, your warranty isn't going to cover a battery malfunction anyway.
 

genoxy

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That is not true. On ProVape's site, yes they reccomend the AWs (which they happen to be selling there), but if you look at the manual for the ProVari, it reccomends a single 3.7v high drain IMR battery. What can void the warranty is using magnetic spacers, stacking batteries (don't know why anyone would try that in a ProVari anyway), or using batteries with the wrong chemistry.

And even if the warranty MYTH were true, how exactly would ProVape know which brand of IMR you were using anyway? And on top of that, your warranty isn't going to cover a battery malfunction anyway.

Re-read the website I bought from and you are right, AW IMR are recommended but not using them won't void the warranty. :toast:
 

Kemosabe

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Thompson pretty much nailed it... It's amp draw from the battery that determines how long it lasts between charges.

The 1 thing I haven't seen mentioned yet (please forgive me if it was an I missed it), is the battery's "C rating". The C rating tells us how fast a battery can be safely discharged. It also indicates how long it can maintain its peak voltage before it starts to sag.
Basically, the higher the C rating, the greater percentage of the battery's capacity will be available at a given amp draw.

Batteries with high C rating usually have lower rated mAh rating and the batteries with high mAh rating tend to have lower C ratings.

So... Just because a high (3000 mAh) battery drops before a battery with a lower mAh (1400 or 1600), doesn't mean that the manufacturer of the 3000 mAh battery lied... It means you're using it in an application it wasn't designed for. High mAh, low C batteries are designed to deliver small amounts of power over long periods of time. Batteries with higher C ratings are designed to lots of power over shorter periods of time.

E-cigs tend to fall into the high power category

Edit... Just found this thread that gives a great example of what I said above... Notice that the Panasonic is very close to the AW and lasts longer in the 2.5 amp test but gets beat pretty handily in the 5 amp test...
Load Testing of Panasonic IMR 18650 2250mAh CGR18650CH In Stock!

this is exactly why i came into this thread. im wondering the C rating of the EFest 18490 and 18350. i have both AW and Efests in thos esizes and im hoping they both hav ecomparable C-ratings. anyone know?
 

jmkiang

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this is exactly why i came into this thread. im wondering the C rating of the EFest 18490 and 18350. i have both AW and Efests in thos esizes and im hoping they both hav ecomparable C-ratings. anyone know?

The Efest 18350 800mAH battery has a C rating of 8. Haven't been able to find the C rating for the Efest 18650 2000mAH battery though.
 

TheSneakerHoarder

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For 18350s, the eFest brand does NOT hold up as well as the AW IMRs.

At least on my .5 ohm coils--I've been using both for 5 months and have subsequently given away all my eFests.

This was confirmed by my ohm meter as well--under load fresh off the charger the AW IMRs were giving 3.9v, whereas the eFest were giving 3.6v.

This was using both a Poldiac and GGTS.
 
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