Efest 18650 or AW IMR 18650?

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Hello World

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Wow, 2900 mAh! Things are changing :thumb:

It's definitely the highest mAh 18650 high drain battery out there. But what makes you say it's the most powerful one? It's rated at 10 amps continuous and 18 pulse. MNKE advertise much higher than that. I think AW are higher also.
Have them all ... MNKEs, AWs and Panny 2200s.

I run mechanicals on Gennys around 1.2 ohms using 28ga Kanthal. The Orby 2900s kick up way faster and produce far more power and for much longer. For what I'm using the MNKEs and AW perform about the same, but not as well as the Orbies. I don't consider the Pannys in the same league as they take too long to get going and don't produce as much power although they last a bit longer than either the MNKEs or the AWs. Further, they seem to have a continual drop-off of power. I can't comment if any of this makes any difference on most electronic mods since many regulate it.

The Orby's been out now I think for 3 months ... possibly even longer. Many extremely low-ohm vapors prefer them, but they also render much better performance in the mid-ranges. My second choice would be the AWs, but their power doesn't match the Orbys and only have about half the capacity. And still, the Orbys have no loss of performance for well over two 3.2ml tanks.

My biggest gripe about batteries has been slow speeds coming up to full power. I don't want to wait 2 - 5 seconds before the coils start to sizzle ... the Orbys are up nearly instantly ... no waiting, fast draw-vaping. On their account I had to modify my DIY flavoring to better accommodate their performance characteristics.
 
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KerryK

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I still have 18650 kit batteries, just plain red wrap, some with print, some without. These batteries are like 6 months old, I still get a full day and a bit before charging.

I have never bought name brand 18650 batteries....

EDIT: LMAO as I'm typing this my battery went to low....I know I'm cheap, I think I will invest in an actual 18650 name brand and see if there really is a difference.
 
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Ryedan

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Have them all ... MNKEs, AWs and Panny 2200s.

I run mechanicals on Gennys around 1.2 ohms using 28ga Kanthal. The Orby 2900s kick up way faster and produce far more power and for much longer. For what I'm using the MNKEs and AW perform about the same, but not as well as the Orbies. I don't consider the Pannys in the same league as they take too long to get going and don't produce as much power although they last a bit longer than either the MNKEs or the AWs. Further, they seem to have a continual drop-off of power. I can't comment if any of this makes any difference on most electronic mods since many regulate it.

Fascinating. I didn't think there was any meaningful time required for a battery to get to output power. I've never seen this reviewed. I'll have to do some more research on it. I am using MNKEs with a AGA T at 0.7 ohms. If I get the setup right, warm up time is about 2 seconds, which makes for a great first drag. I don't have any Pannys or AWs to compare to.
 

Hello World

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Fascinating. I didn't think there was any meaningful time required for a battery to get to output power. I've never seen this reviewed. I'll have to do some more research on it. I am using MNKEs with a AGA T at 0.7 ohms. If I get the setup right, warm up time is about 2 seconds, which makes for a great first drag. I don't have any Pannys or AWs to compare to.
I suspect at least some correlation exists between the battery's capacity and the instant acceleration and delivery of current to the max. I mean it's full out wheel-spinning V-8 power like a 454 ... you don't even notice you've got a 1,200 lb moose in the box. I've vaped 7 mls so far on this one mech today and the battery hasn't slowed down at all ... but I know it's about to. But they take quite some time to recharge at half an amp. (I like to make them last)

2 seconds is what the AWs give me, MNKEs just a wee touch faster, the Pannys take longer and don't deliver quite as much power which affects the taste of the juice. Likewise the Orbys run hotter and I also have to compensate the flavouring. I use 9/64 bored-out AGA-T2s as well with 1/8 ceramic wicks.

If you are down to .7 ohms, the MNKEs may be your hardest hitter, at least over any non-1500mAh AW IMRs.

I've drained all my other batteries down to 40% shelving them away for the time being.

I know I'm cheap, I think I will invest in an actual 18650 name brand and see if there really is a difference.
More important than brand name (although I think highly of the MNKEs and AWs) is that they are either IMRs and/or high drain. This also makes quite a difference with low-power regulated mods such as the eVic providing they fit, getting the show going in half the time.
 
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Heavyrocker

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Depends on how much you vape,i dont think using hours too gauge battery life is accurate,my efest 18500 can last me 2-3 days,i only vape on my breaks from work and while im home,i think best way is too count how many puffs you take is best way,now i can see where the puff counter in the Evic.would be a good idea.
 
Have them all ... MNKEs, AWs and Panny 2200s.

I run mechanicals on Gennys around 1.2 ohms using 28ga Kanthal. The Orby 2900s kick up way faster and produce far more power and for much longer. For what I'm using the MNKEs and AW perform about the same, but not as well as the Orbies. I don't consider the Pannys in the same league as they take too long to get going and don't produce as much power although they last a bit longer than either the MNKEs or the AWs. Further, they seem to have a continual drop-off of power. I can't comment if any of this makes any difference on most electronic mods since many regulate it.

The Orby's been out now I think for 3 months ... possibly even longer. Many extremely low-ohm vapors prefer them, but they also render much better performance in the mid-ranges. My second choice would be the AWs, but their power doesn't match the Orbys and only have about half the capacity. And still, the Orbys have no loss of performance for well over two 3.2ml tanks.

My biggest gripe about batteries has been slow speeds coming up to full power. I don't want to wait 2 - 5 seconds before the coils start to sizzle ... the Orbys are up nearly instantly ... no waiting, fast draw-vaping. On their account I had to modify my DIY flavoring to better accommodate their performance characteristics.

I find it interesting that you don't consider Panasonic in the same league as the Orbronic considering Orbtronic sells rebranded Panasonic cells.
 

Rifty

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In my experience, anything IMR is going to be better than something that has a max delivery of 5.8A or whatever. The lower the remaining voltage in the battery, the higher the demand of current from your mod to keep the output the same. I believe that is why ProVari recommends a 18650 IMR 2000mAh over something such as a 2900 or the 3200mAh regular output ones I have seen (Generally around 5.8A max output). Sure, you may have higher Wh out of a 3200, but as it gets lower in the voltage, the demand for current is going to put a lot of strain on the battery, especially if it is demanding 8A, when the battery can only put out 5.8A. I have not experimented with it personally, I have always just got the high drain batts, but in theory you would get consistency down to the last vape with an IMR over something that is not.

"Why does the ProVari need to use high drain batteries?

The ProVari uses an internal DC/DC converter that continuously monitors the output to the atomizer load and maintains a constant voltage with an output current limit of 2.5 amps ( each unit is tested to this limit in production, most exceed this limit by .1 to .2 amps). This output voltage is usually higher than the input battery voltage, depending on what the ProVari is adjusted to.

Battery output current is NOT the same as ProVari output current.

Here is an example that shows why. When the ProVari is putting out 5.0 volts at 2.5 amps into an atomizer load, that calculates to be 12.5 watts.

That means the battery has to supply 12.5 watts to the ProVari, at a minimum. In reality it is more because nothing is 100% efficient.

If the battery voltage is 3.7 volts it will need to supply 12.5 watts / 3.7 volts or 3.378 amps minimum. Because nothing is 100% efficient, let's add that in. Most ProVari devices are 90% to 95% efficient. Picking the worst case, 90%, the battery current must now need to be 3.378 amps/ .9 = 3.75 amps. That is a more realistic current draw, but it could be even higher.

WHY?

Let's take a look at what happens when the battery voltage droops lower than 3.7 volts. At 3.5 volts the battery current goes up to 3.968 amps.

But it can be even higher still when the battery droops to near end of charge, say 3.2 volts. The battery output current now goes to 4.34 amps. And we have to keep in mind that this is ONLY the average current. Because the ProVari converter is a pulsing device, the pulsed battery current can be a factor of 2 higher than the average current.

The battery needs to supply pulsed currents of over 8 amps. These engineering calculations show why you need a high quality, Low Internal resistance battery to supply what the ProVari converter needs.

Where does the internal resistance come into play? According to ohms law, when you are drawing 1 amp out of the battery , the battery voltage will droop .1 volts for every .1 ohms of battery internal resistance.

At 4 amps this means the battery voltage is no longer 3.7 volts but 3.3 volts." - From ProVari FAQ on batteries.

Could be a reason to promote the AW Red's on their site, but in my studies, I would be inclined to agree with their reasoning, and why they do not recommend a higher rated mAh battery atm (most higher rated ones do not come close to 8A drain, let alone 10A).
 

ph0kused

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I've used the gray Pansonic CGR18650's for months.....they last longer then my AW 18650's or my Efest 18650's, all 3 own my 3100 mah Trustfire 18650's.

You must have a cheap battery charger or a bad battery. Pannys seem the best among the 18650's for battery life here.

All of my 18650's are at least 3 months old (have 7).....none have died.

You need a battery recharger. Nitecore Intellicharger i4

ya put yours on a multimeter bro - I have a nitecore intellicharger i4 and I have 4 panasonic 18650ch's (grey colored) and they died after 4 months, wont stay above 3.5 for longer than an hour of sub-ohm vaping.

They may work great for your eGo twist, evic, provari, vamo whatever - for dual coils running below 1.0 ohm - they dont stay firing above 3.5v very long, its been proven. That's why they cost about $3.00 per battery, and you can buy a 2 pack on fasttech for under $ 10.00
 

LAP87

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Never tried Efest or AW, my first batterymod came with no-name blue batteries, which i replaced with Trustfire.
When i bought my eVic i got the pink samsung battery with it and also bought the Panasonic NCR18650B 3400mAh at the same time.

Since then i've kept to the green Panasonic batteries, and for my mechanical devices i use Panasonic NCR18650PD which has been touted as perfectly good alternative to AW.
 

Rader2146

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Ya I have 4 18650CH grey panasonic batteries - and they were great for about 2 months - garbage now....you get what you pay for.

ya put yours on a multimeter bro - I have a nitecore intellicharger i4 and I have 4 panasonic 18650ch's (grey colored) and they died after 4 months, wont stay above 3.5 for longer than an hour of sub-ohm vaping.

They may work great for your eGo twist, evic, provari, vamo whatever - for dual coils running below 1.0 ohm - they dont stay firing above 3.5v very long, its been proven. That's why they cost about $3.00 per battery, and you can buy a 2 pack on fasttech for under $ 10.00

A quote from earlier in this thread dated nearly 5 months ago...

My CGR/CH's are working great in my mech mods with a .5Ω coil, lasting all day+ on a charge and holding excellent voltage under load.

By that time I had already owned the batteries for ~8 months of use with VV devices and mechs with 1.5Ω-2.0Ω loads. I ventured into SLR vaping about a month prior to that post. 2 days ago I just retired that first set of 4 CGR18650CH's after more than a year of use and ~6 months of .5Ω vaping. That's pretty far from being proven.

Getting only 2 months of use and not holding a charge for more than an hour would indicate counterfeiting, a manufacturing defect (statistically extremely unlikely considering that you have 4 batteries), or poor maintenance practices that, in turn, killed the batteries.
 

ph0kused

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A quote from earlier in this thread dated nearly 5 months ago...



By that time I had already owned the batteries for ~8 months of use with VV devices and mechs with 1.5Ω-2.0Ω loads. I ventured into SLR vaping about a month prior to that post. 2 days ago I just retired that first set of 4 CGR18650CH's after more than a year of use and ~6 months of .5Ω vaping. That's pretty far from being proven.

Getting only 2 months of use and not holding a charge for more than an hour would indicate counterfeiting, a manufacturing defect (statistically extremely unlikely considering that you have 4 batteries), or poor maintenance practices that, in turn, killed the batteries.

All i know is what i've experienced, and what others have said about the panny's you and I have. I'm willing to bet the vast majority of people out there venturing around .5Ω are not using the panny's - for a reason. I wasn't saying they were .... batteries, I was just saying after 4 months I wasn't able to get them to stay at 3.7v - on top of that I made 2 purchases for the same grey pannys CGR18650CH - so counterfeiting is highly unlikely. My point was, for under $10.00 for a 2pack - you're not getting asome premium top of the line battery. They do preform amazing right out of the mailbox - and for the first 2 months I couldn't be happier.

I was just recommending hooking your batteries up to a multimeter after 1 hour of .5Ω vaping and seeing if they hold 3.7v after 6 months of vaping. The vast majority of people on this forum that own those batteries are not getting 3.7v after a 6 month lifespan. But to each his/her own. I prefer to spend a little but more $$ now on better chemistry, rather than playing in the dirt with the cheapies... I hated having to carry 4 18650CH's with me everywhere I went + a ntiecore charger.
 

ph0kused

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Poor maintenance was not the issue my friend, I can assure you. They were not left in my car, they were always in their carrying case - and I didn't ever over charge them. I've learned from past experiences with the Red Sanyo 18650's about poor maintenance, and what not to do... i had a pair melt in my car while it was 110 in socal one month.
 
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ciggfree

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wow - this battery stuff gives me a headache. I have been searching for months to figure out the "best battery" and it seems for the most part, the "best battery" is a matter of opinion and luck. I do know that of the different brands I have tried, the best peformance I get is from the AW(s) and the MNKE. Good luck everyone.
 

IMRs

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Hi all! I bought a Vamo (v2 though). I have yet to use this thing because I am skeptical on the batteries that I purchased. The vendor sold me 2 ICR 18350's and said that these were recommended by the manufacturer. My understanding so far is that you are supposed to use IMR's in ALL APV's. Could have been an error or mistake, on the vendors part. These batteries are grey in color and 'Special Lithium Battery' is printed on them (Made by D.K.L. Battery). He also said you can stack these batteries in which... again, I thought that it wasn't safe to stack. You can use one 18650 in stealth mode, but I haven't bought the 18650 battery yet. My question is... are the icr's safe to use in the VAMO? (yes, this battery thing is a headache!)
 
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